Will a Husqvarna 372XP Cylinder fit a 365?

[Marshy]

Hi guys, new to the site here but have been reading a lot (love this place)! Im looking for information that I cannot seem to find, maybe someone has the answer or can point me in the correct direction..? What we're dealing with is...

I have a Husqvarna 365, ID tag says 1998, 8350917. Cylinder is slightly scored but might be reusable with an acid wash, will find out soon. If by chance I need a new cylinder can I drop a 372XP jug and piston on and run it? My research indicates both saws have the same stroke and use the same base gasket and crank bearings but have different wrist pin bearings... Will the 365 rod accomidate the 372XP wrist pin and bearing (are the rods the same width)?

Assuming I can use the 372XP top end, any consideration for using the stock 365 carb? Can it be adjusted properly?

 

[Jacob J.]

The 365 uses the same crank and crankcase as the 371 so yes, you can easily put a 372 top end on it.

 

[Marshy]

I wanted to make sure the top of the 365 rod would work with the 372 piston because I know the Husky 357's had different widths pending the year and didnt want to run into that here...Since my 365 is a early model ('98) should use an early version of the 372 to end?

Also, the Tech Manual I read said the 365 has a Zama C3M-EL8 carb where as the 372XP uses a Walbro HD12 carb. Im going to verify what is in my machine when I get home but, will the Zama carb be ok to use with a 372 top end?

I keep reading about people suggesting a muffler modification, anyone have a link so I can read up on it? Thanks!

 

[Jacob J.]

Your Zama carb will be fine. I ran the same Zama carb all summer long on my modified 372 cutting snags at 8'000 elevation and it worked fine- even in hot weather.

 

[Marshy]

Are there any after market cylinder kits that are worth a damn or is the general consensus use OEM? I see some 372 cylinder kits for about $100! The saw has had a rough life and is a little beat up, it would be hard justifying the cost of an OEM cylinder kit if I have to dish out 2 bills... Thoughts?

 

[Mastermind]

Weedeaterman has good quality AM kits.

 

[Marshy]

Thanks for your input Mastermind.

So I check my carb and discovered its a Walbro HD6. Is that an ok carb to run on a 365? What about if I bump it up to a 372, still ok to use? Is this a smaller or larger Venturi over the HD12?

Also looked at the piston and cylinder that came off the saw and it appears to be aftermarket from Mahler. I measured the old cylinder at 48mm.

Think this cylinder can be reused after a hone?

 

[Mastermind]

I wouldn't use a hone......at least not until I got that transfer off.

 

[Mastermind]

A Mahle piston is a OEM piston in many engines BTW.

 

[Marshy]

Interesting technique with the mandrel and emery cloth. I might as well try it but my problem is I only have a dermal at my disposal and they cannot accommodate a very large mandrel. Any suggestions? I have a the same hand drill you used at the end though. Mow much pressure are you using, could I just use the hand drill you think?

 

[Mastermind]

Yes you could use a hand drill........cut a slot in a old bolt, or threaded rod. I use quite a bit of pressure, but I try to stay on the aluminum....

 

[Marshy]

OK, I have some 100, 280, 320 and 400 grit emry cloth and some red scotchbrite. Im going to make my mandrel tonight for the emry and stop in at Lowes to get something for the scotchbrite. I'll probably start with the 280 and move right into the 320. I'd rather take it slow and make sure I dont destroy anything.I'll save the 100 for smoothing out the intake/exhaust runners.

The worst of it looks to be above and below the exhaust port. I'll post pics when Im done. Any other tips are appreciated.

Worst case is I wreck it then have to convince myself to get the 372 cylinder kit.

 

[Jacob J.]

That cylinder isn't very bad. I've saved a couple hundred that were much, much worse.

 

[Marshy]

Started in with the 280 grit at the exhaust port and quickly switched to the 320 as there just wasn't much there to justify using the course stuff. Didn't really do anywhere else with emry other than finish that area with some 400. I think the scotchbrite will take out everything else, just some small lines here and there. I just have one spot the size of a large pea above the exhaust port that has some scoring. It's noticeable with your finger and it's not transfer. Do I try to buff it out or what?

 

[Marshy]

We'll I was able to work that spot out, will post a pic in a little while. I think I'll put this back together with a new piston and see what happens. I haven't a clue if the bottom end is good. Maybe it burnt up because it needs crank seals or because I was cutting a dead dry oak and was making a lot of dust, IDK.

Any suggestions on how to check crank seals are good?

 

[Marshy]

Here's what I have now, I still need to scotchbrite the cylinder. Just having trouble comin up with one of those special Wiggles Worth armatures to scotchbrite the cylinder. Everything I've looked at has a short shank to it. I'm going to try Lowes tonight... Let me know what you think.

 

[Marshy]

Finally went to Walmart and bought one of those 3M sanding disk kits with the spin on scotchbrite pads but just bought the thing without all the disks for $5. I wish it had a longer shaft on it because the chuck on my drill could have contacted the cylinder wall. Fortunately I use a piece of scotchbrite large enough so that it wouldn't hit the wall and kept it straight up and down. Here is after scotchbrite...



I decided to do a light hone after this to bring back some cross hatching. No picture of that yet but my new piston should be here before the weekend. Maybe I'll break it in by felling a nice big cherry.

 

[Marshy]

Little update if anyone cares to know... got it together and it runs now, thanks for the tips!

Next up is try to tune the carb. The darn thing had quite a high idle and the chain wanted to free wheel. I turned down the idle speed but couldnt get it low enough to keep the chain from turning without the saw from stalling. I set it back where I think is a good idle. I might need to look at my clutch springs and make sure they are good (got any tips on what to look for/check?).

Right now L is 1.25 turns out and H is 0.75 turns out. Saw was quite lethargic off idle but was still cold. I might take L to 1.0 turns out and find some wood to cut. Any advice? Im going to go review the crab tune stickies now. Thanks!

 

[Big_Wood]

i would start at 1.5 turns on the low and 1 turn on the high. this way yer running pig rich and lean it out from there. i would run it rich for a couple tanks just for break in of the new rings. your saw is a 1998? either it's been frankensawed or i have never seen a 1998 with a closed port top end. also have never seen a 98 with a walbro carb. i have worked on a handful of 1999's and lots had zama's with open port and lots has walbro with closed port so i figured that was the year of the swap.

 

[Marshy]

i would start at 1.5 turns on the low and 1 turn on the high. this way yer running pig rich and lean it out from there. i would run it rich for a couple tanks just for break in of the new rings. your saw is a 1998? either it's been frankensawed or i have never seen a 1998 with a closed port top end. also have never seen a 98 with a walbro carb. i have worked on a handful of 2000's and lots had zama's with open port and lots has walbro with closed port so i figured that was the year of the swap.

Thanks for the advice. The racing idle on startup has me concerned, I don't remember it acting like that before rebuild so I think I I'm going to do a pressure/vac test to make sure I don't have bad seals. I'd really hate to toast that new piston because I didn't check the seals.
The saw is a 1998 365, non SP model. No idea what is original on this saw, I have no history on it but can tell it's done hard labor for most of its life. I'll post a picture so you can see for yourself. It'll still make a good spare if I can make it mechanically sound.

I'm not familiar with the different port designs (open vs closed), does one have an advantage over the other it terms of power? Got any expamples to show me the difference? Thanks.