Woodland Pro Inject-A-Sharp carbide chain for milling?

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i think what they have done is the same kind of thing deeprock did with their drill bits for drilling wells. they coat the ends of the drill bits with a flux then heat the bit up to a temp and then stick the bit in some granular carbide and the carbide welds it's self to the bit.
i think the carbide is not in the cutter steel, but just a coating of fine dust on the outside.

jim

for those that haven't heard of them.
deeprock is a co. that builds small portable drilling rigs for DIYERS like us for drilling water wells and small time core samples and such.
 
Got a loop of lo-pro injecta-sharp on its way. Weather is not cooperating, though. Forecast calls for snow every day this week. Some years I can't get to the woods until June.
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I love El Nino! Snow was gone here over a month earlier than last year and I was milling two months earlier.

You must be getting the remainders of the snowstorms that have been hitting the passes east of Seattle.


I eagerly await the results of how that chain performs. Hopefully it gets there soon.
 
Received the lo-pro injecta-sharp.

Looks just like the ads. Coating is only on the top and side of cutter. On a few cutters, the coating is missing in a few spots.

Cutters are slightly shorter than on Carlton ripping chain. I'm guessing the cutters are resharpened after the plating process, so that would explain the shorter length. By the time you regrind it to 10 degrees, it will be shorter still.

Injecta-sharp on left, Carlton ripping chain on right.
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The chain tension adjuster snapped on my 066 today, so it'll be a while before I can run this chain.
 
Personally, I wouldn't bother re-grinding to 10° with that LP semi-chisel, or if you do, just do it gradually as you need to sharpen. I've done many passes with both 10° and stock 25° on the same chain and would be hard pressed to tell the difference in the cut smoothness.
 
I've done many passes with both 10° and stock 25° on the same chain and would be hard pressed to tell the difference in the cut smoothness.
I can see a difference in smoothness, but I am a cheapskate and will not grind the chain any more than necessary to keep it sharp. :laugh: I'll gradually change the angle a few degrees each time it needs to be resharpened.

Meanwhile, I won't be able to do any direct comparisons in cutting speed. I think the best way to test it is to take it out in the field and mill with it, see how many passes it makes before it has to be resharpened.
 

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