Wright C-70

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cbfarmall

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Got this sucker a few weeks ago. 116cc of Midwest horsepower. Put it aside to work on my Pioneer 1560. Managed to gather all the gaskets, seals, bearings and misc. parts to make it viable. Was already a very clean saw, but I tell right off it had at airleak. Between the dinky crank seals and the sandwich of 3 gaskets to form the intake manifold it's no wonder the piston wasn't toasted. I also found a new spike, oil cap, and a floating-rim drum. The bar I picked up on Ebay for the 3/8" slot and put it away for a future project. The mount exactly matched the little roller-nose that came with the C-70.

This is the only saw I've seen with the manual spark advance. It is not for adjusting the timing as there is no means to lock the mechanism. It is simply a timing retard for starting.

Definitely have to have an air filter even for very short term testing. Due to the setup of the carb throat, the chain flings chips straight into the intake. I found the reed cage clogged with chips when I pulled it down and the main bearings were very nearly locked up.

Just though I'd share. It's a departure from my usual pursuits.

Chris B.

wrightc70_22.jpg

wrightc70_20.jpg

wrightc70_23.jpg
 
Thats a sweet one Chris, I have three of them, all
needing top ends. Someday i will find some parts
and get them up and running.
How much power doe's it really have.




Lee
 
Nice work indeed, how much compression does it have and did you put new rings in it? I have one, but don't have the ambition to tackle the project.
Thanks Kevin
 
Thats a sweet one Chris, I have three of them, all
needing top ends. Someday i will find some parts
and get them up and running.
How much power doe's it really have.

Lee

Not sure about the power yet. It's a fairly early direct drive, so I'm sure it won't compare to 797s or 2100s.

Chris B.
 
Nice work indeed, how much compression does it have and did you put new rings in it? I have one, but don't have the ambition to tackle the project.
Thanks Kevin

Yep, got a new set of rings. Pretty thick ones at that. Compression is pretty good, didn't bother to gauge it. It will kick every now and then when cranking if you're not careful.

Chris B.
 
Thats a sweet one Chris, I have three of them, all
needing top ends. Someday i will find some parts
and get them up and running.
How much power doe's it really have.

Lee

I made a few cuts today with the Wright till it ran out of gas. First impressions are it is very much an earlier direct drive in that you don't want to dog it real hard. Like my Homelite 990D, I just let it cut at it's own pace with any bar and it'll chug all day long. If you want a saw you can stand on while cutting you need to drag out your 2100s, 797s, 125s, 1690s, etc..

Compression is already coming up with the new rings. I'll need to cut a slightly larger air filter, though.

Chris B.
 
Chris,
Where'd you find the drum with the floating sprocket? I just finished a C50 and am working on a 70. Sprocket on the 70 is like new but 50 is worn and is the same as the 70.
Same design with the 70G. Couldn't believe it. I had to buy a planetary assembly for mine cause someone really screwed up the sprocket welding it back on. Apparently broke off at some point. Doesn't look like a real strong design.
 
Check your PMs.

Chris B.

Here you go Chris. All I did to the exterior is clean up and wax and touch up the white WRIGHT on the fuel tank.

You can see how long the crankshaft is. The outer end is supported in a bearing in the clutch cover.
attachment.php



The planetary assembly slides on to the crank and is held on with the clutch nut. There is a pin and threaded hole on top and bottom. The pin guides it into the clutch cover and two screws go though the cover from the outside to lock the planetary assembly in place. This way, the engine turns the same direction as the direct drive model - clockwise in this view. The clutch drum has the sun gear and the sprocket carries the three planetarys.
attachment.php



Bottom view shows better how it all fits. The inner end of the sprocket carrier rides in the outer crank seal.
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The arrows point to where the two screws go in. You can also see the muffler extension to clear the clutch cover.
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Finished. That is about an 18" bar - only lightly cleaned. I've since gotten a longer bar from the C70 I'm working on, painted and then painted the Wright lettering. I'll be posting all four saws when I get the C70 done(C50, C70, C70G, B520 blade saw). The G will be the only one that is original unrestored. Still looking for a C50G and B316.
attachment.php


Here's a link to the video.

Wright C70G Chainsaw.AVI - YouTube
 
That thing is a beauty Buzz,
Thanks for sharing the pic's.
I have been looking for one of these
C70G's for awhile. I missed out on
one early summer. Sold for around
70 bucks on ebay. I have been kicking
myself up side down and all around.




Lee
 
Thanks Leeha.
I forgot to add - the original planetary assembly was a disaster. The rim sprocket had broken off the hub and someone welded it back on, destroying the surface the crank seal rides on as well as filling some of the slots for the chain drivers. Had a loop of like new 1/2" chain on it. Also pulled the P&C for inspection and clean up.
 
Thanks for putting those up. Very, very nice. Now I have something new to add to the list.

How do you like those dinky crank seals? Don't see too many without garter springs.

Chris B.
 
Thanks for putting those up. Very, very nice. Now I have something new to add to the list.

How do you like those dinky crank seals? Don't see too many without garter springs.

Chris B.

Seals are almost identical to the early Homelites - EZ, EZ6, 600, except the Wright lip is bigger and the Homie OD is about .004" larger. Just got done installing two.

The clutch side seal on the 70G is the same design only about 1.5" od. Difficult to install without distorting it.
The crank seal from an SP125 fits but the ID is too small for the planetary hub. This is the seal I was going to use if I converted it to direct drive.
 

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