Metering Side gaskets Stihl 015L

[mark_stihl015L]

Hi all, found a few threads about this old saw i inherited its a Stihl 015L. It has a Walbro HDC-17 which is giving me trouble but i have parts coming to hopefully get this running. There are two metering side gaskets that come in most available kits. From what I gathered on Leon’s Chainsaw channel on youtube he states that if your metering plate has 2 holes you must use the non “Z” slotted gasket. If one hole on the plate then use the “Z”.

The old meter side gasket i removed was non”z” but I made that swap years ago during my first failed attempt and i could have been wrong.

I have two holes, which would then mean i use the non”z” slotted gasket. But, I am confused by available schematics online, and the fact i have both high and low speed screws. Also, it seems like the Z gasket connects fuel circuits as opposed to the non-Z. So which gasket? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[trains]

use the gasket on the rhs of your picture, the one under the metering lever diaphragm, if you look on the base of the carb, you can see the channels and where the fuel needs to flow, the gasket in your picture is shown upside down and facing down, not up, which confuses things too.

 

[mark_stihl015L]

That’s what I am thinking, but I don’t have a clue at the same time

 

[mark_stihl015L]

Leon breaks it down. According to him, because i don’t have a fixed high speed screw, and because i have 2 drilled holes in the plate , the gasket i must use is the non “z” type, which is the gasket on the left in the photos above.

 

[trains]

Hmm, looking at the path on the carb base, it seems to indicate the opposite.

 

[ray benson]

015 ipl page 18 has a nice exploded view of the carb.

 

[trains]

That looks to be the non Z type, as per the video, happy to say I was wrong, but going by the passages in the carb face, I would have gone the Z.

What symptoms did it have before you started to take it apart ?

 

[mark_stihl015L]

That looks to be the non Z type, as per the video, happy to say I was wrong, but going by the passages in the carb face, I would have gone the Z.

What symptoms did it have before you started to take it apart ?

So this chainsaw inherited from my father in law over 10 years ago. At some point i rebuilt the carb and it finally started but died after a few minutes. At the time, rebuilding the carb was the extent of my engine knowledge.

I started working on it again but this time with more knowledge and confidence I completely broke down the entire saw.

Thus far I have replaced the coil (no points now) because of no spark, fuel line, fuel filter, oil line, fuel gasket, cleaned everything including piston head. Put it back together and It started up after a few pulls. It died after 3 minutes and fuel was pouring out of the carb. Needle must be stuck right? Sort of, the metering lever was broken.

So I ordered new gasket kit for carb. The old metering gasket was the non “z” type like the one in Hotshot’s post above. But because it didn't run very long i added the gasket dilemma to my list of possible issues.

So at this moment I have been waiting on intake gaskets which are incredibly difficult to find along with a metering lever that only one company from canada on google carries. I ordered 7 of them to hoard them in case someone needs one stateside. That’s where I am at. I am almost giving up again. If the metering lever and new gaskets don’t fix it i think i’m done.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Every one of these carbs off the 015 I have encountered in the last couple years had flood out issues and in each case it was a bad high speed check nozzle, the tiny diaphragm in it was toast,when replaced they run and work very well.

 

[mark_stihl015L]

Every one of these carbs off the 015 I have encountered in the last couple years had flood out issues and in each case it was a bad high speed check nozzle, the tiny diaphragm in it was toast,when replaced they run and work very well.

what part number is this and how do i replace? Do you mean the check valve with the screen?

 

[trains]

check valve is under the screen, which is held in place by the C clip, often come across the screen plugged with fuel varnish.
Most kits come with new screen but no valve disc. In years gone by, kits used to have the disc, on some carbs, its just the screen, and no disc.

 

[64poncho]

check valve is under the screen, which is held in place by the C clip

Had a bad check valve on my 015. Made a disc from a piece of extra diaphragm that comes in a kit that didn’t fit
the carb I was working on.

 

[mark_stihl015L]

check valve is under the screen, which is held in place by the C clip, often come across the screen plugged with fuel varnish.
Most kits come with new screen but no valve disc. In years gone by, kits used to have the disc, on some carbs, its just the screen, and no disc.

Gotcha thanks. I changed the screen and the c-clip. The old valve disc is there. Not sure what its condition is.
At this point I’m pretty sure fuel was leaking from the needle not seating as a result of a broken metering lever, but i’ll keep the check valve in mind when i put this back together. Parts come in a few days from Canada. Ill keep this thread posted.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

OP - You need 92-208, the non Z type. In this case I had found Jackssmallengines website seemed to be better than walbros own. It gives you the breakdown and you can click on the number. That gives you the walbro PN which you can google.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...retor/carburetor-hdc-17-1/hdc-17-1-parts-list

 

[pioneerguy600]

Had a bad check valve on my 015. Made a disc from a piece of extra diaphragm that comes in a kit that didn’t fit
the carb I was working on.

I do the same thing and have posted how to do it in threads on here in previous years., the whole unit can be pulled out using a bottoming tap to thread into the sleeve just a thread or two deep just enough to grip it then pull out. Some say they can replace the disc while in the carb by folding or scrunching up the disc and poking it in sleeve/well.

 

[mark_stihl015L]

OP - You need 92-208, the non Z type. In this case I had found Jackssmallengines website seemed to be better than walbros own. It gives you the breakdown and you can click on the number. That gives you the walbro PN which you can google.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...retor/carburetor-hdc-17-1/hdc-17-1-parts-list

View attachment 1174121

i believe you are right. I wish i understood more on how each actually works and why. I received the gasket set with the two metering side gaskets and here are the comparisons.
I also received intake gaskets that were difficult to find, and I’m still waiting for the metering lever from Bantasaw (part# 166-38) which were the only company to carry the tiny part. I ordered 7 because they had a minimum shipping charge. If anyone needs one let me know.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If engine repair was easy none of us would do it, the challenge is what keeps it interesting and rewarding. Carburettor kits often fit multiple models. In your case there are multiple models based off the HDC platform. Newer, older, different size engines and so on.