Best fallin wedges?

Just wondering what kind of wedges everyone likes, I'm about due for some new ones and want something good. I'm tired of these wedges I have that don't drive worth a s***. I'm mostly working with 20"-30" DBH trees, but occasionally some bigger ones, so I'll probably be looking for some wedges in the 10-12" range. I'm kinda looking at the double taper red head wedges from Baileys, but I'm undecided. Any input would be great.

Best is subjective.
I really like the red heads. but some times the hard head is better. and I keep a lot of orange Bailey's wedges around. They are pretty dang good and a lot cheaper if you are just going to be beating them up.

Look in fallers wedge pouches .

.I use 1, 15" , ,1,12" and 1 , 10" . I prefer the 12" to be a Hard Head .. I,ll have 1 or 2 toothed wedges if the timber is frozen ..

10" and 12" . 10" lifts easy , most of the time they are low rise . 12" have more bearing surface , they are a little harder to drive , but lift further ..

Great pics Tramp!

The Oregon toothed wedges are great for winter wood and they are pretty tough. They hold their place well in hardwoods, but don't drive real smooth. Don't buck with them though, they may not come back. Don't get the stihl wedges. The chip and break easily.

Unless I order online those are really my only two options and damn the shops around here rape you on them. Its been a while since I had to buy any and I usually get them in bulk. I had to pick up two 8 in oregons this morning that cost me almost $28! I damn near dropped one in my pants. They wanted like $15 each for 10s and $18 each for 12s!

I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.

the 12'' red head ones are nice. Beter than the rifled ones that have the little lines across the tip so it breaks off after a month. thats what thery sell everywhere around you, well at most saw shops anyway. .

That is a rip off

bitzercreek1 said:

Great pics Tramp!

The Oregon toothed wedges are great for winter wood and they are pretty tough. They hold their place well in hardwoods, but don't drive real smooth. Don't buck with them though, they may not come back. Don't get the stihl wedges. The chip and break easily.

Unless I order online those are really my only two options and damn the shops around here rape you on them. Its been a while since I had to buy any and I usually get them in bulk. I had to pick up two 8 in oregons this morning that cost me almost $28! I damn near dropped one in my pants. They wanted like $15 each for 10s and $18 each for 12s!

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Ya , wait till Bailey's ,Wood's ,or Madsen's ect has wedges on sale and buy a case .. I bought a case of soft 10" med high rise Blue Ox wedges from Baileys in 1990 and I,m useing the last one this winter . It,s a little shorter than when it was new , but it still works ......Ya , get a case of 10" and a case of 12" hard plastic wedges , then get specials as you want .14$ a piece for 8" wedges is way too much .. It ain,t the shipping as I,m buying them here for the scalper price of 12.00$ each..

Oldtimer said:

I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.

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NO. Just , NO !

Oldtimer said:

I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.

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Cause thats the most powerful skidder around:spam:

I think the K&H Red Heads have the most lifting combined with longevity. Double tapers are nice in warm weather, but break when cold or not hit square. The Bananna Ramma 15" yellow DT is a must!

056 kid said:

Cause thats the most powerful skidder around:spam:

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It's the skidder that will start and pull wood when the rest are being parted out. The word of the day is Deutz...
What skidder do you run?

tramp bushler said:

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NO. Just , NO !

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Why's that? I don't work the side of a 11,000' Mt. cutting 5' DBA wood.
I work alone, in the mixed stands of hard and softwood. If I wasted time with a wedge on every tree that wasn't leaning the right way I'd never make a dime. Pull the machine up, push into the tree a bit, lock the brake, get out, notch and back-cut it leaving a good hinge, get in, and nudge it. If you think it's dangerous, it can be if you're not experienced. I've done it almost 20 years now, all alone. I know what I'm doing.

you tell em old timer! i bet youve got a tree pusher welded on the top of your fairlead too.

i can do it. ive done it enough i can do it as safely as it can be done. but i dont usually. i drive out and drop as many trees as i can without fear of loosing one. then commence to twitchin.

my cousin will notch and backcut 5, 6, 8 trees that set back on him, then back into the first one and play dominoes. not for me!

Thanks for the replies.

So I guess the double taper wedges get a better seat in the wood before they really do most of the lifting, correct? I can see how they would be easier to break however. All I've ever used were single taper, but would like to try some other options.

I agree on the comment on the Stihl wedges, I couldn't believe how crappy they were considering the price.

Oldtimer said:

It's the skidder that will start and pull wood when the rest are being parted out. The word of the day is Deutz...
What skidder do you run?

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Ive run TJ 380s, a TJ 450, a Cat 440, & some old franklin(only one ive run with a stick. .) ive cut trees under 20dbh that you could not get to commit with the 450. . . . . Now when your in big 30/40''+dbh stuff no where near a skid road on a steep grade, how are you gonna push the tree with any skidder? let alone a little red ant like the tree farmer. .

so, the red heads are pretty good, then again, you can trash a wedge in minutes if you cant hit it right.....


What is the difference between single taper & double taper, the extra bevle on the tip of the wedge?

which state is the Pine tree state ?

I,ve been wanting to ask that for some time now ......Now Old Timer, don,t get all mad ...I,m not into having iron help fall timber .....by and large it is totally un necessary . And I,ve skidder logged in Maine ,and have pushed over trees with a wheel skidder ......
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.It,s one thing that separates a timber faller from a logger ......
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Not interested in an argument ,nor implying you don,t know your business . But you would get more wood to the landing if you did your falling , then did your loggin ....... It is alot more efficient . and alot more fun .

. Tho there are certain select logging senarios where pushing a tree over may be handy .. With a bit of thot almost 100 % of your timber can be fell with just your brain and a power saw ,I sure don,t pound over every tree I fall ............... in a 6 1/2 or 7 hour day of cutting timber , I may only wedge over 4 or 5 trees , out of 40 - 80 numbers .....
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i use those yelloy oregon toothed wedges....

the ones that were in "that other" thread. Never had any problems with em.....I just used one on a 26" oak yesterday......worked like a charm. $3.00 a piece at fleet farm.

Isaac ; we need to steer Blitzer to that place , poor guy is loosing all his ot pay on out of this world expensive wedges

tramp bushler said:

Isaac ; we need to steer Blitzer to that place , poor guy is loosing all his ot pay on out of this world expensive wedges

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The $3.00 a piece ones are 5.5 inches. They are at Menards too for the same if not a better price. If you want anything larger than that you have to pay for them around here. Oregon sells the 5.5"ers in blister packs to the box stores so they can drop the price considerably. The larger Oregon wedges are sold by dozens to saw shops. ALL of the saw shops around here are expensive with everything. I just ordered some 8s, 10s, and 12s from the shop my boss has an account at. I think I will be putting some on his tab for a while instead of shelling for my own.