Foley vs Stihl grinder, the "slide"

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Patrick62

Patrick62

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So I keep referring to the Stihl USG when I get confused as to which way to set the "slide" on the Foley 308
OK, I gaze at the USG, and it says that when the vice is swiveled this a way:
IMG_0203.jpg
That would be the left hand cutters. Ok... the marks call this the negative - from zero.
Lean over and adjust the "slide" to the negative side to get the 15, and that is what I remember my instruction book told me (I lost it somewhere)
IMG_0204.jpg
So as I have been doing for awhile now, and yesterday I am going thru a PILE of chains, something finally caught my attention, and piqued my interest.
The Foley Belsaw 308 has this scale on the side, and I finally noticed the R and L. Now, wait a second... does that mean Right and Left? Yes.
Oh, So I fish out my manual for the 308, and read it. Yes, you set the thingie to 1.5 in respect to the Right or Left cutters.
Hold on a second here...So I swivel things around, and with a little comparison.
It's opposite the Stihl USG.
For giggles, I sharpened a old chain that a way (nothing to lose, right?)
it seemed to make a nice looking chain, that should atleast be capable of cutting butter.
IMG_0206.jpgIMG_0208.jpg
The general idea is to duplicate the hand file technique of filing up and into the tooth, to make a sharper "point".

Is the Foley 308 right?
Is the Stihl USG right?

Later on today, I will make more of a investigation here, and compare it to the "tilt" of a Tecomec (like the oregon 511)
Which is supposed to achieve the same thing, a different way.
 

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huskihl

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Most chain nowadays advises you to file/grind straight across.

Filing up through the point makes the working corner more blunt (stronger) and the rest of the top plate gets progressively sharper the further away from the point you get.

If you want to do that with a grinder, you slide your vise away from you to grind the cutters that are away from you. And you the vise toward you to grind the cutters that are toward you
 
Lightning Performance

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Most chain nowadays advises you to file/grind straight across.

Filing up through the point makes the working corner more blunt (stronger) and the rest of the top plate gets progressively sharper the further away from the point you get.

If you want to do that with a grinder, you slide your vise away from you to grind the cutters that are away from you. And you the vise toward you to grind the cutters that are toward you
Did you mean progressively thinner?

I'm pretty good at keeping my center for doing milling chains. Switching to a CBN wheel makes that task easier and repeatable. Keeping up with the vice slide position is a pita with a worn down stone wheel unless I do all on one side then the other side. Turns out it is much faster that way.

Most times I do a flat grind and don't chase the 10° up anymore
5° will make a milling chain feed faster.
 
Patrick62

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Most chain nowadays advises you to file/grind straight across.

Filing up through the point makes the working corner more blunt (stronger) and the rest of the top plate gets progressively sharper the further away from the point you get.

If you want to do that with a grinder, you slide your vise away from you to grind the cutters that are away from you. And you the vise toward you to grind the cutters that are toward you
Now, that is something that makes sense.
armed with that, I will wander into the sharpen' shed. and do some head scratching.
 
huskihl

huskihl

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Did you mean progressively thinner?

I'm pretty good at keeping my center for doing milling chains. Switching to a CBN wheel makes that task easier and repeatable. Keeping up with the vice slide position is a pita with a worn down stone wheel unless I do all on one side then the other side. Turns out it is much faster that way.

Most times I do a flat grind and don't chase the 10° up anymore
5° will make a milling chain feed faster.
Yes. Sharper, thinner. More acute
 
Colonel428

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Most chain nowadays advises you to file/grind straight across.

Filing up through the point makes the working corner more blunt (stronger) and the rest of the top plate gets progressively sharper the further away from the point you get.

If you want to do that with a grinder, you slide your vise away from you to grind the cutters that are away from you. And you the vise toward you to grind the cutters that are toward you
First time I've actually heard that "slide in or out" adjustment explained in a way I can actually visualize and understand...
 
Patrick62

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comparing apples to apples.
Okay. Got it. Found a hunk of chain, and went and sharpened the 7 cutters, this a way, that a way, on both machines.
I have been doing it wrongly on both machines! Atleast it is consistent that way!
The foley 308 has the advantage of there being a smaller wheel, and less in the way to sharpen the cutter.
Turn the USG around and it wants to damage the clamp, etc. but... once turned around, the cutter looks just as good as what the Foley will do. Since I do most of my 3/8 stuff on the Foley, and .325 and smaller stuff on the USG, I might experiment with doing it backwards, but not to the extent of 15 deg, maybe try 10, or even 5

Learning curve...

Now to get back to the Simmington 451 (to really stretch my gray matter)
 
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