Lester Gillett
ArboristSite Member
Was looking at one on Craig list and didn't know how good of a deal at $350 it would be? I sure would like to have a
saw that i could run a 32 or 36" bar.
Lester
saw that i could run a 32 or 36" bar.
Lester
Was looking at one on Craig list and didn't know how good of a deal at $350 it would be? I sure would like to have a
saw that i could run a 32 or 36" bar.
Lester
Depends on how nice it is. A pro-quality 70cc current model saw in very good condition is easily worth $350
All good points, but it doesn't mean the saw isn't worth $350.Yes, but this being a "landowner" 68cc saw, and being a little on the anemic and heavy side, these don't seem to be worth as much on the used market, because they're not an "XP" saw. It's precisely why I bought mine (still a good saw that was cheap and would pull a 24" bar), to leave at the farm for my Grandpa and dad to use (instead of the old, heavy, brake-less Echo/JD 80EV), though...
570 - 4.9hp, 14.55lbs
372XP - 5.5hp, 14.3lbs
Mike
All good points, but it doesn't mean the saw isn't worth $350.
I recently flipped a 570 on Craigslist. It was in very good condition and sold for $400 with a 24" bar and two newer chains.
The 570 may not be an "XP" in power, but it IS the same quality. A worn out broke down 372xp may not be worth $200 in certain markets but may be worth $500 in others.
As a rule of thumb the Husqvarna saws with a three number model #, the last two number is the CC size of the engine. That is applicable to the two number models as well. For Stihl's, well don't bother trying to understand those model numbers, they make no sense and don't cut worth a darn anyways.Thanks guys, With so many saws out there and the numbers on the saw how do you know what saw will do what you want? I need a saw that will
handle a 32" bar and has the cc to handle it. I am not a one saw guy so any saw that will do that will be fine. Also it seems that most of the saw
I see that will fit my needs are over priced or seem to be. I have a Homelite 330 with a 24" bar and it works good but just need one that will handle
a 32 as I seem to be getting larger logs then the 24 will handle.
i have a 570 and a 575. i can't really tell much difference in power. i mostly run 20" bars on both. longer bars tend to find dirt and rocks more often. however, i wouldn't hesitate to mount a 24" or 32" bar on either saw, if the job called for it. This is one of the great saws. they don't have to scream to have power. when you first use one, you might think there's something wrong. they sound too tame. but when you put the into wood they cut hard.Thanks guys, With so many saws out there and the numbers on the saw how do you know what saw will do what you want? I need a saw that will
handle a 32" bar and has the cc to handle it. I am not a one saw guy so any saw that will do that will be fine. Also it seems that most of the saw
I see that will fit my needs are over priced or seem to be. I have a Homelite 330 with a 24" bar and it works good but just need one that will handle
a 32 as I seem to be getting larger logs then the 24 will handle.
i can stop any saw if i "lean on" it too hard. a 570 would perform fine if used with skill rather than brute force. if the job was a 36" diameter oak, i'd grab the 394. it's situational.If I was going to put a 32" bar on one, it would have to be a skip or semi-skip. Leaning much on my 570 (with 155psi of compression, stock) on a buried 24" bar with a brand new Stihl RS chain will stop it (even in softer hardwood like hemlock). I can't imagine a full comp 32" would do much good, fully buried in oak. Now, if you're out west and all you cut is fresh pine, you may be able to get away with it.
Mike
i can stop any saw if i "lean on" it too hard. a 570 would perform fine if used with skill rather than brute force. if the job was a 36" diameter oak, i'd grab the 394. it's situational.
can't really disagree with you. the good thing about the 570/575's is that they hold their power at lower rpms, a good thing when you're in big wood. i'd have to know what sort of work the original poster does that requires a 32 inch bar. these days i seldom need anything longer that a 20" bar. a couple of times a year, i'll get a big cottonwood or siberian elm.Well, yeah... I'm not talking about "too hard," I'm talking about "much at all." If everything's perfect, the chain is perfectly sharp, the rakers are the right depth, and there is not much pressure on it, it'll run a 24" bar just fine. If you've got 1-2 more cuts, but you get into the ground or into something stuck in the tree bark (dirt from skidding) that takes the perfect chisel points off, you might as well stop and switch chains. I imagine you could probably run a 32" bar with one, as long as the rakers are a bit high, or you were running a normal skip chain, and running both with extreme care; and if somebody had a job to do that required a 32" bar, I wouldn't tell them to buy a new saw if they had a 570. However, a 570 for $350, there are better saws for the job if he wants to run that length of bar with any regularity or speed.
Mike
i have both a 385 and a 572 and in truth the 385 doesn't have a lot more frijoles than the 575. the 575 will probably cut twice as long on a tank of fuel too. as far as the 570 vs 575 goes, i think most hombres would have difficulty telling them apart without stickers. i don't really know why husky makes both of them. one costs a lot more but there probably isn't 50 cents difference in production costs.You can find decent 385's and 288's for around 400 if you look around.
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