Looks awesome. Let us know how it works.
Modified Bar, with Pics, wondering what you guys think?
- Thread starter Trzebs13
- Start date
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I assume there were reasons that bar manufacturers stopped doing things like that in the 1960s or so....
That was exactly what I was envisioning! Alternatively, it looks like with the Oregon lightweight bars they mill a pocket that is larger on the outside so they can bolt an aluminum sheet to either side.
Kfd518
ArboristSite Operative
Looks great man. if it does hang up…If you are any good at brazing or soldering, braze or solder some aluminum pieces or better yet if you can get some scaps some titanium pieces in the holes… no worry of epoxy breaking loose. No crud hanging you up in the cut still light weight and rigid but no draw backs of holes.
Oregon countersink to where there is a tiny lip for purchase on the top and bottom of the bar from what I saw when mine delaminated. They use aircraft grade epoxy and aluminum to hold it all together. I might add it took some heat from cutting down burning trees or burned trees before mine died.
DanTheCanadian
Weekend Warrior
Keep us updated, always wanted to do that.
Trzebs13
ArboristSite Member
OK so I got a chance to try it yesterday... And on smaller rounds <6" preformed perfect!! I only had one bigger piece of soft maple on my bucking table, probably about 16" round and I'm sad to report that the window's in the bar plugged up with chips and I needed to pull out to clear and then go back into the cut. Then I grabbed my Dolmar that I just put the BB kit in and finally got a chance to try it and that turned in to more fun than this saw with the modified bar.
So all is not lost here, my friend does some Epoxy work and I plan to make a groove or Counter bore and fill with epoxy and see if that holds up!
So all is not lost here, my friend does some Epoxy work and I plan to make a groove or Counter bore and fill with epoxy and see if that holds up!
DanTheCanadian
Weekend Warrior
Awsome, thanks for the report. 
Well that kinda stinks. It look sick as it is.
DanTheCanadian
Weekend Warrior
I dunno, he said it works great on limbs. When I grab a light saw its not to buck 30" wood, that being said I cut, buck, limb with the same saw so what do I know lol.
Agreed!
Not only due these clog in the cut but as you go thru a top or carry it in the brush, sticks, limbs are constantly poking into those holes and snagging making you stop to unhook it,
Somewhere back in my past I went to this movie.
John
Somewhere back in my past I went to this movie.
John
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
If shipping was not so much I would send you a bar to modify then I would inlay it with some Carbon Fibre plaque samples I have.
cobey
Addicted to ArboristSite
the 3-25 mac used the bar holes to make the 25 = 25 pounds. without the holes they were more than 25 pounds
Carbon fiber bars, now there's an idea.
Trzebs13
ArboristSite Member
Well that is a thought to, I don't use this saw for bucking 30 inch longs. I mainly use it for falling trees and cutting it into 100" bolts. and when I'm falling trees I usually am not in a huge rush. Kinda like taking my time to be certain it's going the way I plan any ways. That's the nice thing about having multiple saws of different sizes. I'd hate hanging on to a big pig all day as I'm moving about the woods. Before I try the epoxy I'm going to take it out for a real test drive in the woods for what I really use this saw for. As far as hanging up on branches and twigs I'm thinking that should be much of a problem. But I am thinking the Manufactures are probably on to something with the aluminum inserts. And if all else fails I may toy with the idea of slotting out the entire center section out and making a aluminum insert for the center section. Or try enlarging the openings first. I did make it threw about 2/3ds the log before it became a problem. And I am very seldom working with large diameter tree's here in sand country trees don't really get that large.
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Would not work so well the CF would not hold up well with a chain filing it down with use. Also the dust is toxic!. I am thinking cut out a section add the CF and then enjoy the weight savings. Now all this being said Cf is $$$$$ But fibreglass is much cheaper and quite light. Even Lexan could be used. If it was not so dammed expensive I would be tempted to have some sections laser cut out of a bar and then add some CF and see how that works.
what about the parameter of the saw blade being steel ant the middle of it being whatever? I think that might work...
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
member "Hedge Hog" started a thread on the Stihl carbon fiber guide bar.
I'll wager there are other threads too. I just happened to recall seeing this one.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-new-carbon-bar.252050/
I'll wager there are other threads too. I just happened to recall seeing this one.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-new-carbon-bar.252050/
