Welcome to the site! Maybe it's time for you to buy an older poulan to play with and enjoy. I cut 5 cords of wood a year and use nothing but Poulans made from the late 70's to mid 90's. They are easy to work on and most parts are still available if you look around.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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StihlMS360
New Member
Yes, I would like to get another old Poulan, I know the new ones aren't as good anymore, but the old ones I like.
Years ago, I didn't use to work on my own chainsaws, so I took them to the local repair shop. I had few old Poulans I had picked up at good deal, on a local auction at that time, they weren't running so I took them to him. He called me up a few days after I had taken it in and said that the parts were obsolete and mostly unavailable. So, I told him he could keep them, I took off some of the good parts, chain, spark plug, bar etc. I still have these parts, except for the bar, which I gave to a friend. Anyway, about a year later when I started working on my own I found out how easily available the parts were, and how much the older Poulans were valued by woodcutters, I'm not sure what happened to my Poulans, but I whis I still had them.
Wanted to see what the cylinder looked like under the dark stale mix coating inside cylinder. Nice bore under there.
Poulan 365 60cc cylinder before and after cleaning.
Didn’t even need my first 2 steps. Just did the 3rd one with fresh crosshatch.
I listed the set FS in CR FB group if anyone needs it here.
Fits PP365 poulan 3500 craftsman black gold 3.7.
Add the impulse nipple in cylinder base and can be used on poulan 380 3750 330 3450.
IMO get a new 49mm ring.
Poulan 365 60cc cylinder before and after cleaning.
Didn’t even need my first 2 steps. Just did the 3rd one with fresh crosshatch.
I listed the set FS in CR FB group if anyone needs it here.
Fits PP365 poulan 3500 craftsman black gold 3.7.
Add the impulse nipple in cylinder base and can be used on poulan 380 3750 330 3450.
IMO get a new 49mm ring.
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Haggling over a 330 here in Sarasota while I'm here. Wife thinks I'm nuts. I think I'm coming home with a saw strapped to the luggage rack!
I ran out of room in the truck last year in Oregon, had to anchor a few down on the cover to get them home, seemed normal to me...
Mark
Mark
A guys gotta do what a guys gotta do.
olgreenmachine3400
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi guys
Im new to working on these old saws. I have quite a few and decided time to learn how to fix them up myself. It costs to much to take them in for carb kits and fuel lines. Im reading on here and learning as I go. Really enjoying it too! I have done the carbs on 2 3400's a 4000 and a 2600. I have gutted the mufflers on all of them. What a difference!
I have one 3400 that I have playing with. Trial and error. A few errors too already. Believe to much of what read everywhere about these old saws. Everybody has a little bit different ideas about what and how to do things. Lots of YouTube too. Now for my 3400. First I gutted the muffler. Cut slit in the side and opened it up like a 4000. Drilled two holes in lower front as well. Drilled a bunch of small holes on the back side of airlifter cover for better air flow. Ran it like that for awhile cutting oak firewood. Cut pretty good just really load. So the other day it was raining I decided to pull the 3400 all apart. I read a forum somewhere about a guy making a sharpie line around the bottom for the cylinder and trimming the bottom down the thickness of the line. My sharpie was to thick. So I did that too. I filed and filed then sanded it smooth. I tried the cylinder back on with no gasket. Oops! The piston hit the top. So I made a really nice gasket and put it back on again. ****! it still hits. So now I least had a gasket to trace. Put two gaskets in tightened it down. Damnit I really took toooo much off! So now with three base gaskets in it turns over nice. Finally! I watched a YouTube video about a guy grinding half of the timing key off so I did the same with a file. I took the cylinder back off to try luck at porting a little. Brought it over to a buddy's who has ported his own big work saws for timber falling in Alaska Washington Oregon and California. He opened up the exhaust side up to exit side size. It was really choked down. He roughed up the intake side and opened it up just a little bit. We took the edge off the transfer ports and sloped them down smooth. I smoothed out the plastic intake piece and opened up the sharp corners. I put it all back together and fired it up. Really has a crack and bark to it. Seems really peppy. The whole saw really jumps when you crack the throttle. I just put a new 20" Oregon bar chain on it last night from menards $36 with 11% off $34. Have not cut with it yet.
I checked the compression on it 120 cold. Warmed it up checked again 125. I bought sodder last night to check the squish too. Have not checked it yet. I was looking on the inner net for new rings. Thought that might help it out some more. I find ProLine, Caber, Lil Red Barn, Itaco and some no name ones E-bay. What be the best rings for it? How do i fit them properly for most compression? I did this all flying by the seat of my pants. Just trying it for myself. Dont care if it blows up. I have another 3400 jug and piston in my parts saw. Did Duke's ever produce a 4000 end kit for these saws? Or anybody else? Please dont scold me for doin dumb things on this and just winging it not knowing what the hell I'm doing. Sorry just trying to learn. Thanks in advance for any help or advise.
Im new to working on these old saws. I have quite a few and decided time to learn how to fix them up myself. It costs to much to take them in for carb kits and fuel lines. Im reading on here and learning as I go. Really enjoying it too! I have done the carbs on 2 3400's a 4000 and a 2600. I have gutted the mufflers on all of them. What a difference!
I have one 3400 that I have playing with. Trial and error. A few errors too already. Believe to much of what read everywhere about these old saws. Everybody has a little bit different ideas about what and how to do things. Lots of YouTube too. Now for my 3400. First I gutted the muffler. Cut slit in the side and opened it up like a 4000. Drilled two holes in lower front as well. Drilled a bunch of small holes on the back side of airlifter cover for better air flow. Ran it like that for awhile cutting oak firewood. Cut pretty good just really load. So the other day it was raining I decided to pull the 3400 all apart. I read a forum somewhere about a guy making a sharpie line around the bottom for the cylinder and trimming the bottom down the thickness of the line. My sharpie was to thick. So I did that too. I filed and filed then sanded it smooth. I tried the cylinder back on with no gasket. Oops! The piston hit the top. So I made a really nice gasket and put it back on again. ****! it still hits. So now I least had a gasket to trace. Put two gaskets in tightened it down. Damnit I really took toooo much off! So now with three base gaskets in it turns over nice. Finally! I watched a YouTube video about a guy grinding half of the timing key off so I did the same with a file. I took the cylinder back off to try luck at porting a little. Brought it over to a buddy's who has ported his own big work saws for timber falling in Alaska Washington Oregon and California. He opened up the exhaust side up to exit side size. It was really choked down. He roughed up the intake side and opened it up just a little bit. We took the edge off the transfer ports and sloped them down smooth. I smoothed out the plastic intake piece and opened up the sharp corners. I put it all back together and fired it up. Really has a crack and bark to it. Seems really peppy. The whole saw really jumps when you crack the throttle. I just put a new 20" Oregon bar chain on it last night from menards $36 with 11% off $34. Have not cut with it yet.
I checked the compression on it 120 cold. Warmed it up checked again 125. I bought sodder last night to check the squish too. Have not checked it yet. I was looking on the inner net for new rings. Thought that might help it out some more. I find ProLine, Caber, Lil Red Barn, Itaco and some no name ones E-bay. What be the best rings for it? How do i fit them properly for most compression? I did this all flying by the seat of my pants. Just trying it for myself. Dont care if it blows up. I have another 3400 jug and piston in my parts saw. Did Duke's ever produce a 4000 end kit for these saws? Or anybody else? Please dont scold me for doin dumb things on this and just winging it not knowing what the hell I'm doing. Sorry just trying to learn. Thanks in advance for any help or advise.
Welcome to the forum! The Caber rings are actually pretty good, don't know about the others. If you are lucky enough to score a 3700 or 4000 P/C you will need to change the flywheel and starter pulley too, the extra compression will strip the 3400 pulley. Good luck with it.
Another tank on the way to change a guys 415 gen1 tank over to gen3.
Leak tested over night.
Gen3 was on 425 445 505
Info on Gen1 2 3 tanks saved here with pics if want to learn more. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-tank/
Leak tested over night.
Gen3 was on 425 445 505
Info on Gen1 2 3 tanks saved here with pics if want to learn more. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-tank/
I'm currently helping a local guy with three saws, 3400CV, Wild Thing 40cc (strato), and Super Clean 2775.
I need some AV mounts for the front of the 3400, any suggestions on where to find reasonably priced parts?
The oil tank vent on the Wild Thing was leaking badly so I replaced the hard plastic tube with a piece of Tygon equipped with a fitting and duckbill valve. Was that hard plastic line supposed to have something on it to prevent the oil from just pouring out?
I should have time to look at the Super Clean today...
Mark
I need some AV mounts for the front of the 3400, any suggestions on where to find reasonably priced parts?
The oil tank vent on the Wild Thing was leaking badly so I replaced the hard plastic tube with a piece of Tygon equipped with a fitting and duckbill valve. Was that hard plastic line supposed to have something on it to prevent the oil from just pouring out?
I should have time to look at the Super Clean today...
Mark
The Wild Thing had a Torch R7 spark plug, is this saw supposed to use a resistor type spark plug or would the NGK non resistor plug be a better choice? I know I've seen some threads discussing resistor plugs but I haven't been faced with this myself on previous saws.
Mark
Mark
Hello Mark , my PP220 has the same hard plastic oil vent tube . Nothing to prevent the oil flow but the length of that hard plastic line allows it to be tucked up into the top left corner of the tank .
The oil cap keeper can catch the tube and when the cap is removed it can pull the line out of the corner .
Scott
Since these tanks been harder to get for years now.
Going through the parts shelves of this series.
9 crankcases at different stages of being parted.
Only 3 tanks.
I got to see how bad that poulan gen3 is under the jb weld. That a lot of it.
Man just looking folks yank the crap out of them. Breaking limiters off and av mount area.
Saving the black gen3 tank from the jb fix someone did. 2 small seeps of wetness after setting.
I will use sealall coating for that myself.
Going through the parts shelves of this series.
9 crankcases at different stages of being parted.
Only 3 tanks.
I got to see how bad that poulan gen3 is under the jb weld. That a lot of it.
Man just looking folks yank the crap out of them. Breaking limiters off and av mount area.
Saving the black gen3 tank from the jb fix someone did. 2 small seeps of wetness after setting.
I will use sealall coating for that myself.
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Just as long as you don't call it Poulan GPT I'm in. lmao
OT
The Super Clean was fairly easy, I just had to replace the two piece oiler pickup with a one piece unit. Someone had installed a 3/8 pitch chain on a .325 sprocket and bar...since the chain was on backwards I guess they didn't really run it that way.
A little clean up, a new chain, and a bit of tuning and #3 is ready to cut wood.
Mark
A little clean up, a new chain, and a bit of tuning and #3 is ready to cut wood.
Mark
Hello Mark, I've been using the NGK non resistor plugs on my 3400, 3700, 3800 and 4000's for a number of years now and I personally think they run better with them.
From the investigation I have done so far, it appears that saws with more sophisticated electronic ignitions and the M-Tronic and Auto Tune saws really need the resistor plugs to reduce electrical "noise".
At least one user reports the use of non-resistor plugs in his Echo saws produces a coil failure in a matter of minutes, but I have not seen any collaboration from others.
If the Wild Thing comes back with a dead ignition, I will have a pretty good idea why...
Mark
At least one user reports the use of non-resistor plugs in his Echo saws produces a coil failure in a matter of minutes, but I have not seen any collaboration from others.
If the Wild Thing comes back with a dead ignition, I will have a pretty good idea why...
Mark
I was told by a Makita service center tech in 2006 that the Makita cutoff saws use a resistor plug. Using a non- resistor plug burns up the electronic ignition. He showed me 7 saws from a large contractor that all had bad ignitions. All caused by the well intentioned contractors mechanic putting in non-resistor plugs. He said if it calls for a resistor plug then use only a resistor plug.
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