PM Canadien

[cbfarmall]

Unscrew the adjustment needles, spring comes out, followed by (usually) a small washer and then the oring. IPL calls it packing but they are orings.

Do this with the carb in place, takes 5 minutes.

 

[cbfarmall]

I always get rid of the old style levers. New ones are forked for the new needles. They have changed seat and needle styles several times.

 

[MacAttack]

I always get rid of the old style levers. New ones are forked for the new needles. They have changed seat and needle styles several times.

Do you think the new forked style is inherently better than the old style? Could that have something to do with my weird tuning issue?

 

[cbfarmall]

If nothing else, it's an indication of the age of those parts. Not sure if those steel needles and brass seats but it could be as worn as that lever. Change the needle seals. You should also look into vac and pressure testing. Not that hard once you get into it.

 

[Woodslasher]

Can't say for sure one way or the other, but on the few HL carbs I've re-kitted, I've used the new needles and seats and never seen an issue. The old ones had a rubber surface for the needle to seat against and I sure wouldn't trust the 50+ year old seats to not leak.

 

[MacAttack]

If nothing else, it's an indication of the age of those parts. Not sure if those steel needles and brass seats but it could be as worn as that lever. Change the needle seals. You should also look into vac and pressure testing. Not that hard once you get into it.

I sure appreciate all the info and wish I could buy ya a beer in return.
So get this....the current needle is made of some kind of plastic / nylon, with a brass seat. I've NEVER seen anything like it. The only reason I didn't replace was because the parts in my HL kit were so radically different, I didn't want to create too many additional changes that could complicate diagnosing the issue. It sounds like installing the new needle and lever might be a good next step.
Pic of current parts in the saw:

 

[MacAttack]

Can't say for sure one way or the other, but on the few HL carbs I've re-kitted, I've used the new needles and seats and never seen an issue. The old ones had a rubber surface for the needle to seat against and I sure wouldn't trust the 50+ year old seats to not leak.

Have you encountered the tuning issue I'm dealing with on this saw? Starts, idles and accelerates beautifully, but when I run WOT out of a cut, I get a second or two of 4 stroking and then it cleans up and gains some RPMs. It's like at WOT the mixture drifts from just right to slightly lean... all carb diaphragms are new, fuel lines are good, fuel filter is new.

 

[Woodslasher]

Have you encountered the tuning issue I'm dealing with on this saw? Starts, idles and accelerates beautifully, but when I run WOT out of a cut, I get a second or two of 4 stroking and then it cleans up and gains some RPMs. It's like at WOT the mixture drifts from just right to slightly lean... all carb diaphragms are new, fuel lines are good, fuel filter is new.

Sounds familiar, but I can't pinpoint from where.

 

[Hoggwood]

For what it’s worth…

I am not well-versed in the HL series, but have run into a few HS’s off of Homelite 9xx’s that have worn throttle shafts. With the strong return springs the shaft can wear oblong in the carb bore, particularly on the spring side. They can wander a bit and produce air leaks depending on orientation in the bore. Loading up at idle and or wandering at WOT. Impossible to tune unless you swap the shaft. I’ve tried using JB on the worn shafts (grooves) and sanding round again. Can help, but not ideal if a new shaft assembly can be had instead.

Grab the shaft and If it can be wiggled radially in positions through idle to full throttle, tuning issues will manifest.

 

[MacAttack]

For what it’s worth…

I am not well-versed in the HL series, but have run into a few HS’s off of Homelite 9xx’s that have worn throttle shafts. With the strong return springs the shaft can wear oblong in the carb bore, particularly on the spring side. They can wander a bit and produce air leaks depending on orientation in the bore. Loading up at idle and or wandering at WOT. Impossible to tune unless you swap the shaft. I’ve tried using JB on the worn shafts (grooves) and sanding round again. Can help, but not ideal if a new shaft assembly can be had instead.

Grab the shaft and If it can be wiggled radially in positions through idle to full throttle, tuning issues will manifest.

This actually makes a lot of sense, and this saw does have a lot of hours on it, I'm going to check the throttle shaft next.

Thanks!

 

[ne4r]

Hi! I've come across a 270 late model in bad condition and missing parts, one of this is the automatic oiler, I would like to rebuilt this old lady but in my search I was not able to see a scheme, ipl or pics that show how it's made
The only ipl that I have is the early 270 with manual oiler

 

[89HD]

PM sent with some information