Ryobi 10532 in the field

Treestuff
Rugged made
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
cmarti said:
I am the same way, but in researching a cross for the RZ7C, I found that many of the RC Car & Boat guys were getting better results with the Champion in the Zenoah engines. The only difference I could see is the Champion has a .50 reach and the NGK .492. FWIW, I bought the NGK. I had a tough time finding either one locally.
Click to expand...

Reading about some of the guys running Zenoah engines in RC cars and helicopters is pretty interesting stuff.They have they're own "bashing" going on between Champion and NGK plugs.(I think the NGK usually comes out on top.)Not much love in Australia though.
Read a little more and the fuel and oil questions were interesting too_One guy was telling of his special mix of camp fuel (guessing he meant Coleman fuel,naptha or heptane) and LawnBoy oil at 32-1.At about $7 a gallon for Coleman fuel,if you can find it in gallons,or $6 a quart at most Wallyworlds I don't think I'll try it.Well maybe just once..............just because.

I really wish they had put a "regular"plug in these engines instead of this "toy" sparkplug.
 
Last edited:
HimWill said:
I really wish they had put a "regular"plug in these engines instead of this "toy" sparkplug.
Click to expand...

Easy fix. Pull the cylinder and drill and tap for a different plug. Anybody know the thread pitch for a standard plug?
 
Last edited:
NPKenny said:
No, No, No. You must have read the inflection wrong. No insult intended here. I was just envisioning the two piece cylinder head and pipe. Trying to figure if yellow header paint wold match the bar.
Click to expand...

The bars I got were flat black (I got them in March),did someone actually get one of the "Limited Edition" yellow bars?
 
Can one of you guys post a picture of your muffler mod on this saw? I am going to open the existing exhaust hole up more, but I am wondering if I should also drill through the baffle wall right behind the exhaust port?
 
Last edited:
As you guys use these saws more I would be interested in how you find the fuel consumption in these strato engines.

Also, what can you compare the power in these mffler modded and retuned Ryobi's too?

Fpr example Cliff, I presume it makes alot more power than your modded 360T?

Also, has anyone tried an ignition module off of the redmax version to eliminate the rev limiter?
 
The mod I did was probably the minimum needed.Pulled the muffler and put five (5) 1/4" holes through the baffle from the rear.These 5 holes are roughly the equivalent of one 1/2" hole.I then drilled two (2) 1/4" holes at the far right corners,top and bottom, of the indention for the screen.I didn't go through the baffle on the front holes.I didn't bother the original 5/16" hole.Seems to work OK and I can go back and punch another hole or two on the front if needed.The screen and deflector cover the front holes and it looks stock.
 
Has anyone figured out a fix for the clutch rubbing against the clutch cover? I muffler modded mine, fixed the fuel line and switched to a 14" bar and chain. Ran a couple tanks through it today and its a fun little saw but the more I used it the more the clutch rubbed on the cover. Now it will barley even spin the chain because its rubbing so hard. I was thinking maybe washers on the bar studs but I don't know how well that would work.

ryobi.jpg
 
Last edited:
Motodeficient said:
Has anyone figured out a fix for the clutch rubbing against the clutch cover? I muffler modded mine, fixed the fuel line and switched to a 14" bar and chain. Ran a couple tanks through it today and its a fun little saw but the more I used it the more the clutch rubbed on the cover. Now it will barley even spin the chain because its rubbing so hard. I was thinking maybe washers on the bar studs but I don't know how well that would work.
Click to expand...

That's interesting, mine has been working fine, but when I took the cover off to clean it today I noticed a shiny spot on the chain brake strap and some melted plastic around the strap where it had been rubbing. There doesn't seem to be any drag just spinning the chain by hand, so I don't know if that's from the few times I've tripped the brake because it's too close to the bar or from a steady rub as the saw heats up. I plan to trim away the melted plastic and see how it goes. Might be a tolerance problem due to cheap manufacturing, we'll see how many saws share this problem.

Jack
 
Someone else mentioned the cover rubbing,I think Brad did on the one he worked over.I haven't had the problem,I'm only running the 12" Carlton bars from Bailey's.The Carlton is 9/64th" thick,the stock 18" is 1/8" as near as I can measure.You wouldn't think 1/64" would be significant.
 
Maybe I will put the stock bar on for a minute just to see if that rubs. Maybe the oregon i put on is a little thicker. I don't think putting washers on the bar studs would be a good idea but maybe I will try it. The clutch cover wouldn't have any clamping area on the bar.
 
The Carlton bar is thicker than the stock bar.Thicker by 1/64 of an inch,could be significant but I wouldn't think so.
You can't space it out with washers because the outside bar plate seals the oiling hole.Spacing it out would leave the oiler hole open.
 
Seems to me like a thicker bar would move the cover further out from the clutch, which should help the rubbing. Like already having a 1/64" spacer.

Jack
 

Similar threads

J
Holzfforma G372xp (Husky clone) 1st day out cutting.
Replies
0
Views
258
JoshNY
J
P
Hard starting Jonsered 361
Replies
0
Views
128
promechanic
P
Cliff R
Lazer X chain
Replies
0
Views
585
Cliff R
Cliff R
Crftrapper535
The lil saw that could
2 3
Replies
51
Views
4K
stihltech
stihltech
Vintage Engine Repairs
Dogging in Vs Self feeding - Different Length Teeth Too!
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
ZeroJunk
ZeroJunk

Latest posts

Back
Top