ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
Have u run a 361 and at what rpm?
Run my at 14 with a muff mod
Run my at 14 with a muff mod
064 av max revs
- Thread starter Inky
- Start date
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Every saw is unique. It would be irresponsible to suggest that someone else could tune their saw like that and get away with it. Just my honest opinion.
jmssaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I completely agree
A saw tunes where it tunes and everyone is different.
To much emphasis on what rpm
Instead it should be tuned where it's most powerful,whatever rpm it is.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
which that one was 14.5 lol i never tach a saw to a certain RPM. i tach them after they are set. the ones i port all end up that same.
which is why i said he has to run what he's comfortable with. i'm not telling anyone to tune that high. just saying i have. the inexperienced will always be overly cautious. you need to see your saws get beat before you can ride that ragged edge. one heck of alot of builders saws here that are even leaner then mine cutting wood everyday and surviving just fine.
jmssaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 064's I port will tune right at 14.3k everytime.
When I'm done tuning it I'll check it and 99% of the time it's 14.3k
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
Cool, I've never ported an 064 unless I forgot. They seem like a saw with some gains to be had.
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
When and who sharpened that chain?
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
I sharped the chain 2-3 tanks before why?
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
@pioneerguy600 ???
Looked at the vid, saw sounds like its not 4 stroking out of the cut, and therefore a bit on the lean side, and the chain appears to be cutting slowly and creating quite a bit of dust what were you cutting ?
if you think the teeth are correctly sharpened, then have a closer look at your rakers/ depth gauges.
better yet, post up some close up pics of your chain and we can offer some further advice based on what it looks like, and not guessing.
if you think the teeth are correctly sharpened, then have a closer look at your rakers/ depth gauges.
better yet, post up some close up pics of your chain and we can offer some further advice based on what it looks like, and not guessing.
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
Guys the chain is in good condition and making nice big 404 chips. It is Stihl RS. Sharpened two times and the rakers get the first light swipe.
It is not fast because it is hardwood.
It is European beech, on the Janka scale it is harder then white oak and similar to hard maple. (Data from wood database).
I will make the tune a little bit more fat the next time. Piston looks good und muffler is not white inside.
Hmm Ok, still like to see some pics, yes go richer and post up another vid.
That chain is not self feeding and is not cutting as if it is sharpened or the depth gauges set properly for the wood it is cutting, no one could tell if the saw is running lean or rich unless it is pulling smoothly with a constant load on it. Rocking the saw and bar up and down causes uneven loading of the engine, , causing racing when the chain is not pulling a steady load or strain. The wood being hard or softer types makes very little difference to a sharp well set up chain.
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
It takes a while but it is 4 stroking when I lift the saw. That is what I was hearing when I was cutting. But after watching the video I was thinking it isn’t 4 stroking. So it is on the edge.
I’d say that the tune on the H side is safe and good, but we all tune differently. The low side is just lean.
Set the H however you feel comfortable. Richen it up a bit if you prefer, peace of mind.. however you’ll never blow your saw running it there for bucking up. If it’s strong under load with a light 4 stroke, it’s safe and effective.
There is a huge range in which a saw will run safely. Most people (myself included) just prefer a margin of error for peace of mind.
When you run enough saws using a tach and manual specs (stock saws) and get an idea where stihl recommend you set them, generally (not always) they’re only just 4 stroking no load - a light 4 stroke.
In your case a tach is not ideal as you’ve modified it, so listening for that light 4 stroke whilst still getting good power under load, not leaning out (especially when the saws warm at the end of a few good cuts and you’re leaning on it) you’re fine.
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
Can
How do u know that?
Sometimes I feel I’m too stupid for tuning the low side
Can u pls explain me the lean on the low side?
How do u know that?
Sometimes I feel I’m too stupid for tuning the low side
Ideally on a carby without an accelerator pump, the L should be set just slightly rich of peak for good off idle acceleration.
in your case yiu’re not too far off, just open the L screw (turn it anti clockwise) about 1/8-1/4 of a turn and send another video on here of it idling for a few seconds then pin the trigger then let it come back to idle for a few seconds - all on video.
ferris076
ArboristSite Operative
My question was not clear enough, how do u know that my saw in the video is to lean on the low side
