poulan micro xxv

phil ratcliffe · Jan 7, 2010

hi all been sorting this little poulan micro xxv deluxe saw out was given to me by a mate but new nothing about it seems the oiler is not working and its smokes a lot think its the check valve just need to find one from some were if any one knows were to get one would be helpful so i can start to get the engine running right also not sure what engine cc it is been looking on net getting diffrent answers can any one tell me what it really is cheers phil

Brian VT · Jan 7, 2010

32cc
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6e87c2a6c4824f6a88256bfa00192646?OpenDocument

HorseShoeInFork · Jan 7, 2010

I'm not saying, I'm just saying - use the search function in the at the top of this page. There are hundreds of posts about the XXV. Great little saw of which I happen to be the proud owner of.

Brian VT · Jan 7, 2010

HorseShoeInFork said:
Great little saw of which I happen to be the proud owner of.

I like the diaper it's wearing ! LOL !
(diaper = nappy for those across the pond)

Modifiedmark · Jan 7, 2010

Phil the check valve part # is 530069142 and you can order it through a Poulan dealer. Be advised that there is also a check valve in the oil pump body itself and that is NLA from Poulan.

Here is the oiler section from the service manual

HittinSteel · Jan 8, 2010

Quick, throw the saw in the trash before it drives you crazy!!!!!!! Everything in the oiler system on mine has been replaced and it still does not oil.

I'm gonna try mineral spirits in the oiler and see if it gets it started. If not, I'm done with this :censored: thing.

Modifiedmark · Jan 8, 2010

HittinSteel said:
Quick, throw the saw in the trash before it drives you crazy!!!!!!! Everything in the oiler system on mine has been replaced and it still does not oil.

I'm gonna try mineral spirits in the oiler and see if it gets it started. If not, I'm done with this :censored: thing.

Geesh the simplest setup in the world!

Did you replace the pump body as well? I mean theres only the 1 check valve behind the clutch and the one in the pump body.

Send it to me if you have to.

scottr · Jan 8, 2010

HittinSteel said:
Quick, throw the saw in the trash before it drives you crazy!!!!!!! Everything in the oiler system on mine has been replaced and it still does not oil.

I'm gonna try mineral spirits in the oiler and see if it gets it started. If not, I'm done with this :censored: thing.

HS, what kind of bar oil are you using and have you tried thin it in this cold weather? Also is the oil tank cap good?

HittinSteel · Jan 8, 2010

I actually found a a parts saw to scavenge from...... I gotta try some lighter bar oil or mineral spirits to see if it will start moving oil. Oil cap is fine and I replaced the pump along with the check valve and a new oil line.

Yes Mark, simplest set up I have seen which is driving me crazy for some reason!

Modifiedmark · Jan 8, 2010

I'm not so sure I would use mineral sprits as it maybe hard on the check valves. I like to use ATF for such things, as it is thin enough to flow and has alot of detergents to clean stuff up. Straight kerosene is another option that I have used.

Scott did bring up a good point about the weight of the oil, real heavy, sticky oil and cold do not mix well in these and impulse oilers sometimes.

Another thing is if your useing the check valve from a parts saw it also maynot be any good. Get a new one, there less then $5.

scottr · Jan 8, 2010

HS, my old Poulan 2000 Owners Manual designates kerosene or #1 Diesel as a thinner for the bar oil. " Use the following: 30dgf or above-lubricant-undiluted. 30dgf - 0dgf- 95% lubricant to 5% thinner. Below 0dgf - 90% lubricant to 10% thinner.

HittinSteel · Jan 11, 2010

Modifiedmark said:
I'm not so sure I would use mineral sprits as it maybe hard on the check valves. I like to use ATF for such things, as it is thin enough to flow and has alot of detergents to clean stuff up. Straight kerosene is another option that I have used.

Scott did bring up a good point about the weight of the oil, real heavy, sticky oil and cold do not mix well in these and impulse oilers sometimes.

Another thing is if your useing the check valve from a parts saw it also maynot be any good. Get a new one, there less then $5.

Mark, the check valve is brand new..... I scavenged the pump from a parts saw at my dealer with a tag that said "low compression" since new pumps are NLA. I also tried the oil cap from the parts saw as well, used ATF and still no oiling. Only thing left to try is brand new seals.

Modifiedmark · Jan 11, 2010

HittinSteel said:
Mark, the check valve is brand new..... I scavenged the pump from a parts saw at my dealer with a tag that said "low compression" since new pumps are NLA. I also tried the oil cap from the parts saw as well, used ATF and still no oiling. Only thing left to try is brand new seals.

What seals are you talking about? The thing is are you sure the used pump body is good? I test em by sucking on barbed fitting on the back. If you can suck through it but not blow through it it should be good.

You didnt try to blow it out with the air compressor did you? If so you probably ruined it.

Also check and make sure the passage way from the check valve to the tank is clear. The line from the pump body to the bar pad is ok right?

If the thing isnt gunked up somewhere, you have a new check valve and the pump body check valve is good, theres no reason it wont work.

HittinSteel · Jan 12, 2010

Modifiedmark said:
What seals are you talking about? The thing is are you sure the used pump body is good? I test em by sucking on barbed fitting on the back. If you can suck through it but not blow through it it should be good.

You didnt try to blow it out with the air compressor did you? If so you probably ruined it.

Also check and make sure the passage way from the check valve to the tank is clear. The line from the pump body to the bar pad is ok right?

If the thing isnt gunked up somewhere, you have a new check valve and the pump body check valve is good, theres no reason it wont work.

For the seals I was just referring to the seal around the oiler....guess it could leak a little. I am not sure the pump I scavenged is good so I will try your test. Just figured since the tag said low compression, it was oiling fine when someone fried it.

I did not blow air through this one (but did on the other one so I assume it is ruined).

I'll have to check the area between the tank vent for gunk. The line from the pump body to the bar pad is brand new.

Thanks for the suggestions.

lawnmowertech37 · Jan 12, 2010

HittinSteel said:
Mark, the check valve is brand new..... I scavenged the pump from a parts saw at my dealer with a tag that said "low compression"

since new pumps are NLA

Click to expand...

. I also tried the oil cap from the parts saw as well, used ATF and still no oiling. Only thing left to try is brand new seals.

maybe i can help you out there

HittinSteel · Jan 12, 2010

lawnmowertech37 said:
maybe i can help you out there

Calvin, I will keep you in mind as I have ordered some parts for this saw from you already. Trying to not put another dime in this thing because I am already over budget. Thank you though.

lawnmowertech37 · Jan 12, 2010

HittinSteel said:
Calvin, I will keep you in mind as I have ordered some parts for this saw from you already. Trying to not put another dime in this thing because I am already over budget. Thank you though.

i do have a xxv parts saw that has compression that im putting on ebay later on unless someone buys it flat outright then i wont have to put it on ebay

also the poulan 361 parts saw same scenerio

not to mention all them homelite blue xl 12 's i have

polardoo · Jan 12, 2010

what Ive found with my saw is that I need to keep the oil tank full and let the saw warm up well to get the oil tank pressurized. It is a great saw with a marginal oiler. Starting out with a squirt can on the bar helps

Modifiedmark · Jan 12, 2010

polardoo said:
what Ive found with my saw is that I need to keep the oil tank full and let the saw warm up well to get the oil tank pressurized. It is a great saw with a marginal oiler. Starting out with a squirt can on the bar helps

Marginal oiler?

Most of them put out almost too much oil!

You are right though that a full tank of oil will pressurize sooner, but if those check valves are good and the system is clean they oil pretty fast anyway.

This is the main issue with these, they must be clean and be fed clean oil. '

scottr · Jan 12, 2010

Something that I remember HS saying was that he used compressed air to blow out the foam oiler filter on his saw. Maybe it's time to clean it with some kerosene.

poulan micro xxv

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