Poulan Micro XXV 25 fuel line replacement

Finally got around to taking the pictures on doing a fuel line replacment on a Poulan Micro XXV. This is basially the same for the Poulan 1800, 2000, 2300 and all the re badged Craftsman, Wizards, Dayton's etc that are based on this model as well.

In fact, the one I needed to do right now is a Craftsman 1.8.

It's lines were getting deteriorated from ethonal exposure. Here is the subject.



The first thing you need to do is to remove the 2 screws holding the carb cover on, the one screw holding the top of the handle on then remove the bar side cover, theres one screw in the back along with the bar nut on the front.



If you look right below the rear of the handle you will see a double barbed connector hooking the 2 fuel lines together.



You can now remove the old fuel lines and make note of how the line was run through the front of the handle near the throttle trigger and into the carb box.

What you will need now is a pair of hemostats, and some thin wire like this stove pipe wire.



You will need approximately 14" of fuel line, about 9" through the handle and about 5" from the bottom of the handle into the tank.

The fuel line needs to be 3/16"OD and I like to use 3/32"ID x 3/16"OD line. You can use 1/8"ID X 3/16" but you have to be carefull not to let it kink in any tight bends.

I start by running the small wire through the line inlet of the fuel tank and out the tank fill hole.

I then run the wire though the angle cut I made on the end of the 5" piece of line and tie it to it.



A little WD-40 sprayed on the line helps when you pull the line through the hole in the tank.



I found that a tappered Awl will help expand the end of the line to accept the fuel filter easier. A little warming with a heat gun helps as well. Just a little warming though, not much at all.



Here is the filter installed and ready to be dropped into the tank.



Install the double barbed connetor next and pull the line in or out of the tank till you have this much sticking out of the tank.

Next take your next line and drop it though the hole in the back of the handle from on top.



Now you can hook that end of the line to the double barbed fitting on the line coming from the tank. Here is where the Hemostats come in handy.



Now pull the line up through the hole in the handle till it looks like this.



Now you can fish the wire through the fuel line hole in the carb box and up and into the handle as well as under the trigger.



Angle cut the end of the fuel line and fasten the wire to it.

Now you can pull the line though the handle and into the carb box.



Make sure the line is routed though the handle like this.



You can then fasten the line to the carb inlet. You can shorten the line now if you need to as well.




Your ready now to reinstall the handle top cover, the bar side cover and the carb cover.

Not really hard at all. In fact pretty darn easy for a top handle.

nice write ups!!!

nice work mark! the line ya took off looked pretty new was it just getting hard? I would like to add i did one of these very recently with no barb and i just ran one solid line .... seems to work just peachy!!!!

Great how to post very informative, thanks for posting.

stubnail67 said:

nice work mark! the line ya took off looked pretty new was it just getting hard? I would like to add i did one of these very recently with no barb and i just ran one solid line .... seems to work just peachy!!!!

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Yes it will work that way till you try to take the recoil side cover off and bring the tank out with it.

Thats why the barbed fitting is there so it can be seperated without removing the whole line.

Lol

Modifiedmark said:

Yes it will work that way till you try to take the recoil side cover off and bring the tank out with it.

Thats why the barbed fitting is there so I can be seperated without removing the whole line.

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dam your right i bet i can buy a barb at the local shop and splice it in there and fix it!!! as always thanks for the heads up i woulda figured it out down the road if i tried to take the recoiloff hahaha:hmm3grin2orange: thanks buddy!

stubnail67 said:

dam your right i bet i can buy a barb at the local shop and splice it in there and fix it!!! as always thanks for the heads up i woulda figured it out down the road if i tried to take the recoiloff hahaha:hmm3grin2orange: thanks buddy!

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Well I should have mentioned that to begin with, glad you brought it up.

Mark, Is that fuel pipe the new 30% proof ethanol Oregon?

Little Al said:

Mark, Is that fuel pipe the new 30% proof ethanol Oregon?

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Yes it is.

Nice job Mark. The pics are great and the text is informative. This thread should be a sticky for newbies to easily find.

Rookie1 said:

Nice job Mark. The pics are great and the text is informative. This thread should be a sticky for newbies to easily find.

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Thanks Rook!

I don't think a sticky is in order, but at least it can be found with the search engine now. I messed up the first one I did and now its buried in the Poulan thread somewhere and hard to find.

I think a tech section in the forum would be good, but I don't know how feasible that would be.

Nice Post, lookin at buying a poulan micro xxv, gonna need this post

Mark,

I've done a couple of those and knew about expanding the line before installing the fuel filter, but never thought about using an awl with a little heat. Very clever.

Also, the tip about using WD-40 as a way to help reduce friction for installation of the line was great! I'll be keeping that little gem ready for the next fuel line I work on. Why hadn't I thought of that?

Rep sent your way!!

Marc

G'day Mark
Mate would you please tell me the air mixture screw settings for those little saws
Ive a green one a deluxe Ive cleaned up
the thing just wouldn't fire
found the magnets on the flywheel covered in a layer of alloy
cleaned them up, thought maybe the coil may have slipped or been maladjusted in the first place?
anyway much better spark

fuel line split near first joiner near tank cleaned up filter tank n line
carby gasket blown and bubbles extruding when revved motor once i got it running
made a new one good o now
so Id like to know the beginning setting to tune the carby and you procedure for fine tuning after and setting idle Its not to bad just now but Id like it better
also the auto oil feeder to the chain seem just a tad over active can this be adjusted if so how so please mate
thank you for your posts on here Ive been poking about this site for quite some time now n there are some very clever fellers on here kind enough to help plebs like me n I do appreciate it olson yeah

Red Amor said:

G'day Mark
Mate would you please tell me the air mixture screw settings for those little saws
Ive a green one a deluxe Ive cleaned up
the thing just wouldn't fire
found the magnets on the flywheel covered in a layer of alloy
cleaned them up, thought maybe the coil may have slipped or been maladjusted in the first place?
anyway much better spark

fuel line split near first joiner near tank cleaned up filter tank n line
carby gasket blown and bubbles extruding when revved motor once i got it running
made a new one good o now
so Id like to know the beginning setting to tune the carby and you procedure for fine tuning after and setting idle Its not to bad just now but Id like it better
also the auto oil feeder to the chain seem just a tad over active can this be adjusted if so how so please mate
thank you for your posts on here Ive been poking about this site for quite some time now n there are some very clever fellers on here kind enough to help plebs like me n I do appreciate it olson yeah

Click to expand...

Hope I`m not treading on Marks toes by answering Both Hi & Lo mix screws out 1 turn from lightly seated as the initial adjustment info from the Poulan manual

Little Al said:

Hope I`m not treading on Marks toes by answering Both Hi & Lo mix screws out 1 turn from lightly seated as the initial adjustment info from the Poulan manual

Click to expand...

Thank You AL
and then what could you run through the procedure to set it up nice for Idle n cutting power popper
I think Ive got it right It runs n cuts nice for a we saw but they are all a bit different every one yeah I just wondered what others do , look for listen to n for
I did notice when trying to tune it the there was an amount of fuel mist n splutter cumming out of the carby when the engine crack open revving sweetly
If the mixture settings are good could this be piston ring blow by or the flap valve under the car by week of maladjusted
I also wondered on oil fuel mix as Ive here it wise to run a tad more oil in older gear I currently run 25 to 1 in everything two stroke I own
the thing ran and cut well when I tested it , maybe I'm over thinking
I'm just interested to get it right yeah
Tar mate ay

Little Al said:

Hope I`m not treading on Marks toes by answering Both Hi & Lo mix screws out 1 turn from lightly seated as the initial adjustment info from the Poulan manual

Click to expand...

No toes stepped on here, your dead on in your answer.

Red Amor said:

Thank You AL
and then what could you run through the procedure to set it up nice for Idle n cutting power popper
I think Ive got it right It runs n cuts nice for a we saw but they are all a bit different every one yeah I just wondered what others do , look for listen to n for
I did notice when trying to tune it the there was an amount of fuel mist n splutter cumming out of the carby when the engine crack open revving sweetly
If the mixture settings are good could this be piston ring blow by or the flap valve under the car by week of maladjusted
I also wondered on oil fuel mix as Ive here it wise to run a tad more oil in older gear I currently run 25 to 1 in everything two stroke I own
the thing ran and cut well when I tested it , maybe I'm over thinking
I'm just interested to get it right yeah
Tar mate ay

Click to expand...

Dont worry about the carb "misting" thats just trait of these saws it dont mean anything is wrong with it.

Red Amor said:

Thank You AL
and then what could you run through the procedure to set it up nice for Idle n cutting power popper
I think Ive got it right It runs n cuts nice for a we saw but they are all a bit different every one yeah I just wondered what others do , look for listen to n for
I did notice when trying to tune it the there was an amount of fuel mist n splutter cumming out of the carby when the engine crack open revving sweetly
If the mixture settings are good could this be piston ring blow by or the flap valve under the car by week of maladjusted
I also wondered on oil fuel mix as Ive here it wise to run a tad more oil in older gear I currently run 25 to 1 in everything two stroke I own
the thing ran and cut well when I tested it , maybe I'm over thinking
I'm just interested to get it right yeah
Tar mate ay

Click to expand...

I have a Dolmar 101 which is a rebadged Poulan, that has a blow back mist coming from the carb mouth when running with a good amount of throttle or it puffs up when you blip the throttle [ this saw is rebuilt with excellent compression so not caused by blowby]The way I set up, others may do it differently, with equally good results 1.set H&L mix screws to Makers specs in this instance 1 turn open on both, back out the idle stop screw & then wind in until it just touches the cam plate on the throttle rod & then wind in 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Start saw & let it warm up, Adjust idle screw until the chain just stops turning, turn L screw a small amount in or out until you obtain the highest revs, back out L screw 1/16 to 1/8 turn. Reset idle if req. turn H screw out until saw splutters at Wot Turn in H screw until saw is just sputtering /4 stroking out of cut. try a cut, saw should [ clean up ie 2 stroke at wot in the wood, adjust H screw until you achieve this. If the saw does not pick up cleanly when opening throttle back out L a tiny amount at a time until it picks up cleanly with no hesitation Re adjust Idle screw to get non chain spinning idle.Adjust all screws until you achieve the best results. I think that if you are using semi or synthetic oil in your mix 25/1 may be a bit much, a lot of members run 50/1 but I`m a bit old school & run my older saws at 32/1. Hope that this helps [ it is better to run a TINY bit on the rich side if unsure] I`m sure that some one will be along to advise a different way of achieving the same result