Stihl 028 AV Super... is it worth fixing?

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SteveoSupremo

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So I bought a used Stihl 028 AV Super off of craigslist. Cosmetically there isn't a scratch on it. Heck the plastic to cover the logos are still there. when I fired it up it ran awesome so picked it up for $175. got it out the first weekend it fired right up started going through wood like it was it's job! loved it! then about 15 min in it started dying at the high end. felt like it was a little lean so I read the manual and it sounded like i needed to turn up the high rpm setpoint screw thing. So I did and it ran like a champ for the next 4 hours! we even fell most of a 40" tree. I stopped my Stihl for the last half hour while we were using a wedge to fall the tree. once it was on the ground well tried to start it up again and it wouldn't even attempt to start.

so I took it to a dealer and after three weeks they said that I had scored the cylinder wall from running too lean. :-( so they considered it junk.

So I ask the real pro's should I attempt to resurrect it or buy a brand new saw?

View attachment 225640

anyways any info on the saw like what parts to look for cylinder size etc would be most helpful
 
New piston and a cylinder acid bath and it should be good to go....... heck yea! And that one looks pretty nice on the outside. Go to the beg for manuals thread and ask for a shop manual and parts list to get started. READ THEM and then order the parts and get busy.

Good luck and the hardest part is just getting started!
 
Resurect that saw... If you don't feel like messing with it yourself, send it to Stumpy and let him work it over for ya... Helluvalot better than plunking down 5 bills for a new saw...
 
Wow that's too bad about your saw.
But on a brighter note, I wouldn't hesitate on a rebuild of an 028 Super. I've got a lot of newer saws but still love to use my 028 Super for certain things. Yours seems to be in great cosmetic condition and I'm sure somebody here would be more than happy to take it off your hands if you decide not to fix it. People that own them really know how desirable they truly are.
Good luck on the rebuild. :cheers:
 
Absolutely rebuild that saw, its a cherry! Plus, you'll learn a few things along the way.

I bought a fixer 028S last summer and it was a fun little project.
 
Wow 5 post and I have only gotten done watching some you tube videos on how to fix some chain saws!

So I can Do this!!! I can Do this!!! (trying to psych myself up) whats the worst that could happen...

@watsonr you think i need just a new piston not cylinder? how do I do an acid bath? and beg for manuals..... wow I'm behind already!

Thanks for the support!
Steve
 
in the stickys section is the beg for manuals thread, ask for them there.

Muraitic acid available at any of the home improvement stores will remove aluminum from the cylinder walls that have some of the piston smeared on it.. read up on this.... it could kill you if done wrong. It's not hard to do, just be very careful, it will save a cylinder without any gouges in it but not one that has been through the chrome plating, most are savable. A new piston and a pressure test to verify it was bad tuning and not something else before you run it again.

You can do this, the hardest part is just starting! There are some very good sponsors here to use. Northwood saws and Baileys to name a few... good reliable parts. Look up in the Sponsors section for thier banner and click away.
 
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Definitly worth fixing,,,

Find your self some long Q tips with the wooden handles,, do the muratic acid cleaning in a well ventilated area,,, safety glasses and rubber Platex gloves are nice,, if you get a wiff you will know what I mean... not trying to scare you just be careful i think there is a youtube vid on doing it,,, hope fully you didnt go through the plating in the bore,,, will probably have to lightly hone the cylinder,,,but maybe not,, post up some pics as you go,,,, I think Tecomec makes a P/C replacment that is reasonable,, Good luck

oh pour a small amount of the acid out in an old spraypaint can lid for your use,,, do not dip your q-tips back in the bottle or pour what you poured out to use back in the bottle when you are done,,,,,, just ditch it it will contaminate and if there is aluminum in your used stuff it will react violently with the pure acid,,,,,
 
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Definitly worth fixing,,,

Find your self some long Q tips with the wooden handles,, do the muratic acid cleaning in a well ventilated area,,, safety glasses and rubber Platex gloves are nice,, if you get a wiff you will know what I mean... not trying to scare you just be careful i think there is a youtube vid on doing it,,, hope fully you didnt go through the plating in the bore,,, will probably have to lightly hone the cylinder,,,but maybe not,, post up some pics as you go,,,, I think Tecomec makes a P/C replacment that is reasonable,, Good luck

oh pour a small amount of the acid out in an old spraypaint can lid for your use,,, do not dip your q-tips back in the bottle or pour what you poured out to use back in the bottle when you are done,,,,,, just ditch it it will contaminate and if there is aluminum in your used stuff it will react violently with the pure acid,,,,,

Thanks for the how to. I only thought Muratic Acid was for cleaning toilets and getting rid of bodies. ;-) Just kidding on the getting rid of bodies part. but yea I have a bottle sitting around from when I cleaned our toilet.... don't ask.... I'm becoming a handy man. You are right about the smell of the acid!!!! it's un mistakable!

I Just got the manuals so now I have to finish the bed platform, shelves in the garage, websites, and then get the car in the garage, and then make space for me to work on the saw..... so it might be a little while till I get to working on it. But it's on my todo list!

thanks guys for the encouragement!
Steve
 
If your going to use muratic acid use as little as possible and be ready to flush it with water. Try just using it on a Q-tip if possible or wrap a small wad of cotton on a chop stick and wipe it around. You don't want it on the chromed cylinder wall any longer than necessary. Remember to flush it off asap!

I worked in a plating shop for years and we used muratic acid to strip chrome off when we were going to do a re-plate.
 
If your going to use muratic acid use as little as possible and be ready to flush it with water. Try just using it on a Q-tip if possible or wrap a small wad of cotton on a chop stick and wipe it around. You don't want it on the chromed cylinder wall any longer than necessary. Remember to flush it off asap!

I worked in a plating shop for years and we used muratic acid to strip chrome off when we were going to do a re-plate.

Ok will do. Do I want to dilute the HCL? or whatever concentration is out of the bottle?

is the intent here to spot scrub off the aluminum left by the old piston or to remove any "varnish" that is present around the entire cylinder wall?
 
.....after you put that new piston in and clean up the cylinder, you better pressure test and vac test the crankcase...otherwise you'll be back with a scored piston in no time
 
So I pulled the muffler and looked into the cylinder the piston was moving freely by pulling the starter rope. this is what I could see of the piston. Didn't look smooth like I was expecting. but I have no idea what is should look like. What do the experts think? is the piston shot?
View attachment 225907

once the piston was out of the way i could see around in the cylinder there were some up and down marks like I would have expected but there were many more horizontal striations, almost like it was nearly brand new. Unless the pro's think otherwise I'm going to pull the cylinder to get a better look/pictures.

Honestly I was expecting a lot worse. I'm guessing it's going to be a piston, carb kit, fuel lines and air/fuel filters at this point.

but really what do the experts think?
Steve
 
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