Stihl MS880 59"/60" Bar

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Trigger-Time

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I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375

I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
I have read here Baileys WoodlandPRO is made by Cannon.
Are the two the same bars under the paint?


TT
 
ive come to realize anything is possible. i bet the husky bars could be made to mount on the large mount stills with nothing more than grinder and possibly drill or dremel to get oiling holes to match up
 
I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375

I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
I have read here Baileys WoodlandPRO is made by Cannon.
Are the two the same bars under the paint?


TT

Yes the WoodlandPro bars are made by Cannon, just a different paint job. That is info I got directly from Cannon during a phone conversation with them.
 
The 59 inch still bar is duramatic 404 it takes 173 drive links, no roller from still at that length, I have one.
 
The 59 inch still bar is duramatic 404 it takes 173 drive links, no roller from still at that length, I have one.

William, How old is your bar? Stihl may have changed their bars or made a typo
in their catalog.

I may be reading it wrong, but if a bar has a pitch it has a sprocket nose.

Hard nose bars have a gauge but no pitch, you can run any pitch
you want on a hard nose.

Below is from Stihl web site,

MS 880*** RS = Exchangeable Sprocket Nose D = STIHL DUROMATIC
3/8" .063"
21" 75 36RSC3-75 3002 000 9123 RS 10


.404" .063"
25" 80 46RS-80** 3002 000 9731* RS 12
30" 91 46RS-91** 3002 000 9741* RS
36" 108 46RS-108** 3002 000 9753* RS
41" 123 46RS-123** 3002 000 9757* RS
59" 173 46RS-173*** 3002 000 9576 RS 12


36" 104 46RS-104** 3002 001 8052* D
41" 123 46RS-123 3002 000 8058* D
47" 138 46RS-138** 3002 000 8064* D


TT
 
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I believe 93 or 94 but I looked at my 07 catalog and 59 inch duramatic is the only one listed. Mine is NOS I'll sell it if interested for $200 to your door, minor scratches but unused I don't have tha chain It is about $47 from bailey's for the full skip at 173 links. Just thought I'd offer to big for me!
 
I believe 93 or 94 but I looked at my 07 catalog and 59 inch duramatic is the only one listed. Mine is NOS I'll sell it if interested for $200 to your door, minor scratches but unused I don't have tha chain It is about $47 from bailey's for the full skip at 173 links. Just thought I'd offer to big for me!

Thanks for the offer.

It will be used for milling bigger logs, I do want a sprocket nose.

Here is where I got the information...


TT
 
Here a solution to this problem I'm working on.

I have a Stihl 60" with 404/063 nose sprocket, (and a GB 60" with 063 roller nose) AND a spare nose. Like this.
attachment.php


I want to run 3/8 063 chain on the Stihl bar so I made this adapter plate.
attachment.php


Together it looks like this. Seeing as it's just for milling the protruding tensile stell allen bolt heads and nuts don't matter.
attachment.php


Alignment came out pretty good I thought.
attachment.php


The steel I had is harder than mild steel but it's not as hard as bar steel which means it will wear too quickly for practical use. The two outer plates of this adapter are prototypes. I am in the process of getting some spring steel which I will anneal- then fabricate and then reharden.

attachment.php
 
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Cheers guys! I forgot to add that those inside curves were made by
- Tracing around the existing nose onto some steel plate,
- drilling out the concaves curves with a drill that was within 1/32 of the line.
- Using a fine kerf cut off wheel mounted in a small old table saw cut down to the holes.
- Mounting a carbide grinding tip from a die grinder into a drill press, slowly grind away remaining excess and smooth curves and creep up onto the fit on the bar. It took about 30 minutes per side. But I don't worry about how long it takes - I like the voyage as much as the destination. :)
 
Very cool, Bob.

I think ES bars are great and in general my favorite for a good blend of quality weight and price. I have around ten through 41 inches.

But in the really long lengths, like 60 inches, I prefer the Cannon bars. The extra stiffness is a real asset.

But for say 41 and down, the ES bars are excellent and less weight of the Cannons. If Stihl made ES bars for other mounts that is what I would buy for all my saws. I know one could fashion adapters, but mostly that is too much fiddling to suit me.

I still would like to find a ready made adapter that fit a 7900 to stihls bars, though.
 
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I just bought a 60" Cannon for my 090 off ebay. It came with two 404 chains that looked new. Search using "Cannon Bar" as your search word. That 60" bar is a bear to handle!

I agree, the 60 incher is a handfull. Makes a 50 seem like a sportscar.

I use the 50s alot but the 60 very seldom.
 
I have a brand new 60" GB .063" Hi Tech Professional Titanium Roller nose (to suit 880) in stock if you ever wanted to consider getting it posted to the US. Personally I like them over a sprocket nose but each to their own. It would have to be drilled to suit a mill though. PM me if interested. With our current exchange rate it would probably be pretty appealing! It also comes with Husky and medium Stihl adaptors. I'm pretty sure I could land it in the US well below what you guys would pay, not to mention rumours from reliable sources that all but the GB harvester bars are now getting made in China, possibly even their chain too.
I run the same bar on my 3120 occasionally and I can assure you its no fun at all but I plan on using it for milling too.
 
I don't particularly want to labour the point here but I jsut want to show I made the hardened steel adapter using some steel from an old circular saw blade as the two outer plates - these are the ones the chain will ride on .

Hardened steel and original/prototype side by side
attachment.php


This one show the alignments on the Hardened steel version - I'm quite happy with the fit..
attachment.php


I know the steel from the circular saw blade was hard because I got a bit eager with the first pilot hole and well and truly cooked the drill bit. The same drill bit was able to drill all the holes in the prototype without any trouble. So then I slowed down the bit and added coolant and resharpen the pilot bit after every second hole. The carbide die grinder bit was still able to shape the metal OK - albeit a little slower, although this time I felt confident about cutting much closer to the patter line so I had less to grind away.
 

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