Stihl MS880 59"/60" Bar

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bar length ?

question...how big a bar does an 880 handle with full comp and hard wood like oak if anyone has run one....been running my husky 2100 with some modifications but tired of breaking my wrist and just got money back form govt....

hoping to buy one and mill pieces up to 60" presently...shortly afterward, would like to get it woodsported...if/when i get it, ill first be contacting brad or Timberwolf when it comes to that.

jorda
 
I have just started using a 880 and 50'' bar to cross cut,im going to have arms of steal.

I thought I'd have arms of steel using the 3120 with 32-60" bars but I can assure you, I ended up with arms of jelly after some reasonable length days using this setup. I'm not exactly a delicate little flower either :) The "fun" aspect of big saws and big bars quickly disappears with reasonably long stints on them...
My forearm diameter has increased to nearly match my biceps though ;)
 
I thought I'd have arms of steel using the 3120 with 32-60" bars but I can assure you, I ended up with arms of jelly after some reasonable length days using this setup. I'm not exactly a delicate little flower either :) The "fun" aspect of big saws and big bars quickly disappears with reasonably long stints on them...
My forearm diameter has increased to nearly match my biceps though ;)

I bet this guy doesn't get arms of jelly. :)

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I bet this guy doesn't get arms of jelly. :)

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I have a funny feeling he may not have any issues swinging an 880/3120 around with any sized bar on it.
 
he cheats the rep with his left arm. i have a good friend that i hunt with who does 450lb barbell like that. our gym only has 150lb dumbbells and he handles them pretty easily. he's six-one/255 and not an ounce of fat. you should see how he eats, literally any and everything he wants. his body is like a furnace and just burns it off.
 
question...how big a bar does an 880 handle with full comp and hard wood like oak if anyone has run one....been running my husky 2100 with some modifications but tired of breaking my wrist and just got money back form govt....

hoping to buy one and mill pieces up to 60" presently...shortly afterward, would like to get it woodsported...if/when i get it, ill first be contacting brad or Timberwolf when it comes to that.

jorda

Have milled up to 48" hardwood (twice as hard as oak) with a 60" bar with full comp 2º top plate chain with the 880 - slow but no problem. The 076 does it OK too - it really gives your sharpening skills a good workout.
 
I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375

I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
I have read here Baileys WoodlandPRO is made by Cannon.
Are the two the same bars under the paint?


TT

MSRP on Stihl 59" P/N 3002 000 9576 .404" pitch, .063" gauge, roller tip teeth 12, $375.85

There are no hard tips of that size (anymore).

Longest hard tip is 47"
 
MSRP on Stihl 59" P/N 3002 000 9576 .404" pitch, .063" gauge, roller tip teeth 12, $375.85

There are no hard tips of that size (anymore).

Longest hard tip is 47"
You mean this one?:greenchainsaw:
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The Cannon might work better because of the larger belly. My Stihl bar will "chain de-rail" on the horizonal sometimes.
 
The Cannon might work better because of the larger belly. My Stihl bar will "chain de-rail" on the horizonal sometimes.

I use my 60" bars only for milling which is all horizontal cutting so I am familiar with this derailing problem and is one reason why I made my mill out of ally.

My 60" GB rollernose is almost a full inch narrower than the Stihl, so the GB is even more likely to derail on the horizontal if not treated right. The most likely time derailing happens to me is at the start of a cut where the chain heats up faster and expands much quicker than than the bar. I have measured the temp of the chain and the bar at the start of a cut while milling and can see the chain gets up to working temp in about 20 seconds whereas the bar takes about 2 - 3 minutes or even longer. What this means in practice is starting a little slower and not going WOT until the bar is buried in the wood. Once the bar is in the wood I never seem to have an problem.

Another contributor to derailing I've found with long bars held at both ends is mid bar sag. The sag is about 0.09" at the 42" mark for both bars and it can be solved with an anti-bar sagging device like these.
 
I use my 60" bars only for milling which is all horizontal cutting so I am familiar with this derailing problem and is one reason why I made my mill out of ally.

My 60" GB rollernose is almost a full inch narrower than the Stihl, so the GB is even more likely to derail on the horizontal if not treated right. The most likely time derailing happens to me is at the start of a cut where the chain heats up faster and expands much quicker than than the bar. I have measured the temp of the chain and the bar at the start of a cut while milling and can see the chain gets up to working temp in about 20 seconds whereas the bar takes about 2 - 3 minutes or even longer. What this means in practice is starting a little slower and not going WOT until the bar is buried in the wood. Once the bar is in the wood I never seem to have an problem.

Another contributor to derailing I've found with long bars held at both ends is mid bar sag. The sag is about 0.09" at the 42" mark for both bars and it can be solved with an anti-bar sagging device like these.
I Agree Bob. Once in the wood it is not a problem, and the Cannon would be quite a bit heavier than the GB or Stihl.
 
Cannon bars are STUPID heavy, but wear much better than any other bar I've used. I tend to run chain a bit tight on the big bars (sorry crank bearings) and it just doesn't wear the cannon's out.

Price and weight are two things you can't be shy about with those bars. With that you get less sag and way less wear.

Never ran stihl bars.... But if it's anything like their chain, I'd take stihl chain over oregon any day.
 
just becuase..

This weekend i went and milled and cut a pecan tree with a 60" cannon bar. first cut with the stihl super rapid i hit a nail within 30 seconds that tore sme of the cutters off, so from then on out i milled the topp half of the trunk, then cut som rounds out of the bottom half for the landowner usng a milling chain i had been using. cut pretty good with an 8 pin sprocket, ut not as good as the regular chain that got busted up( swore i saw my wallet run away when that happened...LOL)....saws been mildly ported and muffler modded for staying on the mill. i only got t keep about half the slabs, i cut, but the landowner was real nice and even had his wife cook some homemade food for me...

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Nice looking slabs for sure...By 'light porting' do you mean a change in the port timing or just an overall widening and shaping of the ports? It sounds pretty good under a load. Is it oiling enough?
 
opening up of ports and bigger muffler outlet...upper transfers were agnled bit more to rear, but other wise untouched....it oiled pretty decent..but if i could get more out of it i would...oiler was maxed out.there woldn't happen to be a high output oiler somehow would there????

on th mill, it reved much higher, idn't really care that the bar and mill was 60 inches(NOT cutting width)...if someone slacked off, you'd here it hit the limiter, if someone pushed too hard, the chain would slow to a crawl, but it NEVER stopped...

may be going back in a while to get some mesquite wood.....
 
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