Very nice work, as usual!
I have just started using a 880 and 50'' bar to cross cut,im going to have arms of steal.
I thought I'd have arms of steel using the 3120 with 32-60" bars but I can assure you, I ended up with arms of jelly after some reasonable length days using this setup. I'm not exactly a delicate little flower either The "fun" aspect of big saws and big bars quickly disappears with reasonably long stints on them...
My forearm diameter has increased to nearly match my biceps though
I bet this guy doesn't get arms of jelly.
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question...how big a bar does an 880 handle with full comp and hard wood like oak if anyone has run one....been running my husky 2100 with some modifications but tired of breaking my wrist and just got money back form govt....
hoping to buy one and mill pieces up to 60" presently...shortly afterward, would like to get it woodsported...if/when i get it, ill first be contacting brad or Timberwolf when it comes to that.
jorda
I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375
I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
I have read here Baileys WoodlandPRO is made by Cannon.
Are the two the same bars under the paint?
TT
You mean this one?:greenchainsaw:MSRP on Stihl 59" P/N 3002 000 9576 .404" pitch, .063" gauge, roller tip teeth 12, $375.85
There are no hard tips of that size (anymore).
Longest hard tip is 47"
The Cannon might work better because of the larger belly. My Stihl bar will "chain de-rail" on the horizonal sometimes.
I Agree Bob. Once in the wood it is not a problem, and the Cannon would be quite a bit heavier than the GB or Stihl.I use my 60" bars only for milling which is all horizontal cutting so I am familiar with this derailing problem and is one reason why I made my mill out of ally.
My 60" GB rollernose is almost a full inch narrower than the Stihl, so the GB is even more likely to derail on the horizontal if not treated right. The most likely time derailing happens to me is at the start of a cut where the chain heats up faster and expands much quicker than than the bar. I have measured the temp of the chain and the bar at the start of a cut while milling and can see the chain gets up to working temp in about 20 seconds whereas the bar takes about 2 - 3 minutes or even longer. What this means in practice is starting a little slower and not going WOT until the bar is buried in the wood. Once the bar is in the wood I never seem to have an problem.
Another contributor to derailing I've found with long bars held at both ends is mid bar sag. The sag is about 0.09" at the 42" mark for both bars and it can be solved with an anti-bar sagging device like these.
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