Bow Bar???? What is the purpose of a bar like this

[Ax-man]

Can any one tell me exactly what a bow bar is used for, are they better or worse than the normal bars found on chain saws for cutting. The only thing I know about a bow bar is the pulp cutters down south like them.

The reason for the question is I recently bought an old Homelite gear drive in pieces, along with the saw came about five or six of these bow bars, they are big with the big pitch chain. One of these bow bars fits a smaller blue XL Homelite that was part of this little deal.

So I guess the question is what good is a bow bar??? are the bars I have worth much money, or did I just buy some scrap metal. I don't have a clue on this one. I can't really give much more info, because I haven't had time to really check them out, but I have to start somewhere.

Thanks

Larry

 

[Blowdown1]

They are apparently quite useful for maiming oneself.

 

[superman_36]

bow

I have a buddy i cut with in the past and he loved them. I like them on flat ground it saves you back if you have a lot of cutting. The same buddy had a hat on under his hard shell and this guy was pretty good at cutting some one you did not mind cutting with around you, and i heard a scream and see him on the ground and ran over and he is sitting there speech less SILENT finally he looked up and that bar kicked and it cut the brim of his hat 1/2 way to his face he. It took him a long time to get back with a bow saw. I hope yours has all the guards and start small get fell i would put it on the xl and run that tell you got comfortable
Thanks
ERIK KING

 

[Al Smith]

Ahh yes,ye olde bow bar.Back in the early 60's,I used these things to cut osage orange,on my grannys farm,for about 50 cents a fence post.Most people today don't have a clue how to use them.They are supposed to have a guard that goes across the top portion of the bar and a spike,on the bottom of the bar.They are made for a plunge type cut on a small,less than 12 inch trees.You simpley start your cut,with the spike,as your would your "dawgs" and plunge it through.The bow design allowed this cut,without binding the saw.Because of the rounded design of the bar,they presented a high kick back situation,so always make sure the spike is engaged in the wood.Back in the days of the Mac 250,before high speed saws,these were the cats meow for cutting this type wood.If you use one,be very careful,they can eat you alive.

 

[treesurgeon]

i guess it works good on x-mas tree farms. easier for ground cutting.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I think Al summed it up pretty well. I've also heard of them being used to clear brush, like you'd use a brush trimmer. Allows you to clear brush with a chainsaw, whereas that usually doesn't work very well. Bailey's still sells them. And it seems to me that I saw some on ebay a while back, and they where going for a decent amount. Of course, that MS170 went for $510, so maybe ebay isn't always the best place to judge marketable value.

Jeff

 

[Ax-man]

The seller of the bow bars made the same comment cutting brush and limbing couldn't be easier using a bow bar. He also made the comment about high kickback.

Al, your time frame would be right for this saw. The saw is a 775-G. The saw is in pieces but it is all there and is good shape, why the guy took it apart and didn't put it back together is beyond me. Maybe I can get it back together and running with that bar on the far right, the chain is still good, just to have something different.

I took a pic of those bars, am I understanding this right on how to use it right. Use the side of the spike I drew the line to, plunge with the tip, using the push force of the chain from the top of the bar as it comes around the tip.

The bar on the far left is the smaller of the bunch, fits that blue Homey.

The smaller bar has what appears to be a saftey guard, the big ones have two bolt holes on each side in the bar, am I missing the guards on these???

You guys have been helpful, thanks

Larry

 

[Al Smith]

Yep,that's pretty much the method to use.The bars are made to be reversible much like a standard bar,but in doing so the spike must be rebolted to the proper side,thus the extra holes.I only remember a guard on the top side of the bar but it's been over 40 years ago since I used one.I have an original McCulloch bow bar that I may install on a Mac 250,just for the heck of it.This is the same set up I used as a teenager.I will try and post a picture of it later on today.

 

[Al Smith]

Old Mac bow bar

Here is a picture of an old McCulloch bow bar that I have.As I said before,I think it had a guard piece across the top portion that went from one of those holes,back to saw.An interesting thing about this old bar is on the tail section,were it has several mounting patterns for the various configuarations of the old Mac saws.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Looks real nice Al. I can see the point behind having multiple mounting holes for use on multiple models of McC saws, less inventory to keep track of, and one part fits most.

 

[056kid]

Bow bars where the thing during the 60's and 70's in pulp wood country.

 

[Ax-man]

Looks good AL, looks like you have been cutting with it. What pitch chain is that??? Without measuring mine it looks to be 1/2 in or 7/16ths, hard telling what the gauge is.

I checked Bailey's recent catolog to see if they had a new one, couldn't find it to have a price to go on. I don't need all those bars are they worth anything at all??? Even a few bucks will help recoup some saw money.

Larry

 

[Lawn Masters]

Larry, if they're .063 ga and will fit a McC mount for a 250, I'll PM you an offer on them. a bowbar would probably serve me well on some of these trees I cut up.

 

[Al Smith]

That bar I have has a .404 by .063 chipper on it.I have never used it,it came with a Mac 250 that I got with a pile of saws.I don't think they are worth a whole bunch,there is one on e-bay right now,for a Poulan,pretty cheap.As I said before,they were the ticket for cutting those fence posts but that was before light saws were invented.Today I imagine something about the size of an 028 would be the weapon of choice for this job.

 

[superman_36]

i have a few brand new bows but the ones i have are bigger on the plung section i know one is a 63 gauge but i don't know what the other is if anyone would be interested in them the both have zero gaurds and thumb
Thansk
ERIK KING

 

[Ax-man]

OSA, I'll check them out later today or tonight. They have Homelite stamped on them, I do know that much. I don't know if Homelite made those bars of had a bow bar company make them, they might cross over but I doubt it. I have a 250 here and can also check to see if they will work on those saws. I'm a little out of my element here on this older stuff.

Larry

 

[Ax-man]

I checked those bars out a little more, they are .063 gauge, the slot for the studs are the same , the oiler holes are different and won't line up, the overall base of the bar looks the same as Al's, expept for that little indentation. I swiped Al's pic and drew a line to what I mean.

Larry

 

[Lawn Masters]

I could still use one for my 7-19. it needs a cool looking bar for a cool saw.

 

[Al Smith]

That little slot,actually a milled partial circle, is for one of the early bar tightening devices.On my Super 44A it has provisions for the bar tightener in the chain guard,on the saw body and also for that slot.Not only did the bars fit all,but all the saws fit the bars,one way,or another.A novel idea,too bad it was discontinued.

 

[Muddiver]

The bow bar was used extensively by the US Forest Service Hotshot fire fighting had crews in the south west in the ‘80s because it was very effective for cutting scrub, chaparral and other large brush to clear fire line. I have not seen any crews with these bars in a long time, not sure why. It might be either the Stihl saws they switched to don’t accommodate the bar, or there were too many accidents with them.