Briggs 3hp restoration

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi Chaps,

I was kindly given a Briggs 3hp edger that was leaking fuel and had a few problems.

I went through and cleaned the head, carby, fuel tank, ground the valve ends to set the gap to within spec and lapped them, did an oil change, cleaned the air filter and all I need is to replace the governor spring, grab a new drive belt and do a final tune.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I was kindly given the belt by the chap who gave me the edger. I then made a new “home made” choke linkage and brought the governor spring

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I’ve just finished tuning it. All done.

 

[Wow]

I’ve just finished tuning it. All done.

I like that engine.
I just had a guy beg me out of an old 14 up Briggs because I had bought a new Briggs 19 up Intec. about 2.5 years ago and wasn't using the little Briggs. Now the Intec has a messed up cam compression release and I wish I'd have used it before spending 600 bucks for the Inferior engine. The rider is not used as a mower. Just has 22 inch knobby tires and is my Trail Rider. I know it's easy to fix but now I have no confidence in the intec. It was barely out of warranty. Since it's used daily stop and go my guess is an older smaller engine would be good. The engine I gave away was both Electric start and pull rope. I need to kick my compassionate ole butt. Good luck.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I like that engine.
I just had a guy beg me out of an old 14 up Briggs because I had bought a new Briggs 19 up Intec. about 2.5 years ago and wasn't using the little Briggs. Now the Intec has a messed up cam compression release and I wish I'd have used it before spending 600 bucks for the Inferior engine. The rider is not used as a mower. Just has 22 inch knobby tires and is my Trail Rider. I know it's easy to fix but now I have no confidence in the intec. It was barely out of warranty. Since it's used daily stop and go my guess is an older smaller engine would be good. The engine I gave away was both Electric start and pull rope. I need to kick my compassionate ole butt. Good luck.

Interesting stuff!!

I just got given this as a thank you for restoring my local Stihl shop owners 045av

I can’t find a full work shop manual for it though, only an IPL that covers a huge range of models as well as a very basic few page user manual. This is a 60102 0347-01 year 74. Any advice you could share on it?

 

[Jasonrkba]

Nice restoration. I really injoy those kind of projects. The older briggs did not have the compression release and can be used on some of the newer intecs. The journals are also beefier. Head bolts like to loosen up on those old briggs so watch out for that.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Nice restoration. I really injoy those kind of projects. The older briggs did not have the compression release and can be used on some of the newer intecs. The journals are also beefier. Head bolts like to loosen up on those old briggs so watch out for that.

Thanks for the kind words, yes I did check to see if there was a centrifugal decomp but they don’t. Compression felt low, but that’s comparative to chainsaws. The red engine is 70 psi and the green is 90. Both run great but the red is a smidge low. However it’s going on a shelf to be admired and occasionally started. It starts and runs beautifully - that’s all that matters

 

[iowagold]

do the usual leak down test on the cyl.
some where here i have all the old service lit in the library.

 

[frank_]

yes I did check to see if there was a centrifugal decomp but they don’t. Compression felt low,

those decompress via the inlet valve dont they tom ?
jabbed open a tad while its compressing

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

those decompress via the inlet valve dont they tom ?
jabbed open a tad while its compressing

I thought it possible frank but I didn’t see anything on the cam and no movement during rotation

 

[frank_]

I thought it possible frank but I didn’t see anything on the cam and no movement during rotation

yes the ramp on the lobe is usually very subtle eh, you only need 5" thou lift to dump the compression down to 60psi
on the kubota,s i check the piston height when the inlet valve is free to spin, they are critical on valve clearance, because the carb lets fuel out twice if there is too much reversion, and they run mega rich on idle

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

yes the ramp on the lobe is usually very subtle eh, you only need 5" thou lift to dump the compression down to 60psi
on the kubota,s i check the piston height when the inlet valve is free to spin, they are critical on valve clearance, because the carb lets fuel out twice if there is too much reversion, and they run mega rich on idle

That’s really good to know, thanks mate!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

When you guys rebuild engines, do you use assembly lube? For chainsaws I just use 2t oil on bearings and piston etc and for the 4 stroke Briggs I just used engine oil, but I have read assembly lube is far better as it doesn’t drip off. What is your advice?

 

[iowagold]

use zddp click here for the oils page
that helps keep the parts lubed.
and yes on assy lube on the bearings.

and yes dye check the valves for contact and lapping compound.

check the head and block for warping with dye.

the big thing on a flat head is to clean the and block trash out of the bore and make sure to get it all out and not leave it in the rings.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I use the permatex assembly lube or valco gel lube. I'd love to have a valve grinder here at the house. Im sure there are a few things I could do differently but I'd say we all have different processes for rebuilding. I try to remember that its not a rocket ship.

 

[sean donato]

Yes assembly lube is a must. Not as important on a splash lubed engine as what your working on unless there's a new cam going in. But it does keep everything from that dreaded dry start the first time parts start to wear in.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have very good luck with this stuff.... a bottle last forever on small engines.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282718053748?epid=1311821981&hash=item41d34f2574:g:SswAAOSwil5bNkot

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thanks guys, I was able to get this from my
local shop, permatex stuff.

The bottle is comes in with the flip spout is really messy so I used one of my fuel / oil bottles.

Do you guys use this stuff on bearings, con rods and before installing cranks for example in 2 strokes too? I have it on very good authority it’s a complete waste of time, but I love trying things out and will give it a go and see how different if at all, start up is.

one more question too, besides engine lube, is this stuff just as good as any other oil with just the addition of tacking agents? Essentialy, can I use it for any metal on metal contact points where a normal lube would be used?

 

[iowagold]

2 stroke use 2 stroke oil.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I use my Clevite on 2 and 4 strokes. Any and all metal on metal can be coated in my opinion. It'll burn off after engine gets to running a bit. Disclaimer... may foul a spark plug in the process. That happened 1 time in 28 yrs and counting.

The Ultra Slick is good in my book too!