This is the cheapest, and best seal puller I know of. I use it every day.I've used the Stihl seal pullers, which you may or may not have good luck with. I never did.
Works best if you use fine thread 3/4" sheetrock screws.
Firstly; knock the seal in slightly on one side first to free it from any factory glue or sealer.
Go into the outmost part of the metal part of the seal on which ever side is higher.
It is important to take care not to get the sharp screw tip into the crank bearing cage.
Once the screw breaks through the metal at a straight in angle, Immediatley adjust your drill so the angle of the screw tip points towards the center of the crank so you hit the inner bearing hub shoulder and not the bearing cage.
Take care not to get to close to the seals aluminum bore of the crankcase and damage It.
Bear In mind that some seals are easier than others.
If the screw strips it's bite, leave It as Is, just put another screw in a new hole, or get a larger wood screw. Don't just keep spinning, as it will make metal debris that'll drop into the bearing.
One screw will not be enough force to pull the seal by itself. It may take three or four screw to dislodge the seal.
Lastly;
after the seal is out, on piston ported saws, you can rotate the piston at TDC and stick a long blow gun down through past the carb in the intake to blow out any small fragments of metal that may have fallen into the bearing.
Put the first screw in just enough to put some pulling force on the seal, then stop. Then two more screws the same way. If you take the three screws and alternately tighten them, the combined force should pop the seal out.
Mistakes are ok, as long we learn from them. That's how those funny combo curse words were invented. Lol
