Cost Of Central Boiler Finally

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trainergeneral

ArboristSite Lurker
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Location
Lakefield -Ontario -canada
Have finally recieved the price of the central boiler
cl 5036 7795.99
taco 009 pump 235.00
1 valved flange kit 45.00
electrical and fittings 395.99
100 ft. of pex pipe 195.00
corrosion inhibutor 45.00
ashtrol 29.75
thermopex 13.50 per foot ( 60') 810.00
14/2 underground cable 1.49 per ft. 119.20
spark arrestor ( canadian law ) 69.00
delivered and installed 900.00

10492.95 plus taxes
g.s.t. 5 %
p.s.t. 8 %


:cry: 10492.95 x 13 % = $ 11857.04

Non - negotiable price (40 ) units behind .... this price is for lakefield ontario canada.
 
last january
deliver and install unit 6048
install heat exchanger on water heater and furnace(140 k h/e coil)
install a whole list of parts, fittings,etc…which includes these big price ticket items---( a talco 014 pump,side arm h/e, 100' central pex tube,anti scald valve,spark arrester, 135' of insulated pex tube)
install concrete slab for boiler unit,trench line,(135’ of pex insulated ) back fill
line,supply permit for boiler.
for $14,000 total price.
 
Actual CB install costs here and 3 year update

Three years ago, the ex-GF bought a CL 4436 for $6,000 delivered. No sales tax in OR. ;) The parts and labor were about $2,000 more (boiler was put close to the house), including the slab, Pex, wiring, copper, Hx for floor and Hx for hot water heater, and loader to place the boiler on the slab. $8,000 total. The circuit breaker was already oversized and a slot available. The dealer gave us a free gallon of rust inhibotor at the time of sale. I 'invented' buried Pex insulation using corregated drain pipe and sleeve foam lining. Works great. They sell that stuff on Ebay now.

Anyway, 3 years later it is 2/3 paid for, offsetting $300 a month heating bills. It has eaten 25 cords of free firewood, and has superficial rust at most. It had a controler failure, and they replaced it under warantee, along with a new damper door, and another free gallon of rust inhibitor. The size of the boiler was the smallest we could get at the time, and if anything, it is still oversized for the requirements of the house heating in winter.

It needs a new door cord this year. And I added a raincap and spark arrestor last year for about $60. And oh, you do not need Ashtrol. If anything the ash pan in the one we have been using is the LAST place to find any rust or pitting. Creosote has little (if any) corrosion effects on steel that I have seen. Water getting behind the creosote or under the ahses can have a damaging effect. Sluff off the creosote and use a garden hoe to rake and stir the ash pan every few days. I found it was best to keep a good one to four inch bed of ashes in there at all times. Actually, I leave an inch of ashes in there from the previous season to start the next season burning. It has worked great for us. No complaints about heating, or smoke, or warantee issues, or rust, or anything else for that matter.

Except they do eat a lot of wood... I would get one of their EPA approved units that are supposed to be a lot more efficient.
 
last january
deliver and install unit 6048
install heat exchanger on water heater and furnace(140 k h/e coil)
install a whole list of parts, fittings,etc…which includes these big price ticket items---( a talco 014 pump,side arm h/e, 100' central pex tube,anti scald valve,spark arrester, 135' of insulated pex tube)
install concrete slab for boiler unit,trench line,(135’ of pex insulated ) back fill
line,supply permit for boiler.
for $14,000 total price.



what's the PLEASE STAY ON TOPIC
 
so...compared to the yearly cost of natural gas heating, how many years before you see a return on the total purchase price?

you would also have to figure in the yearly cost of wood and add that to the cost of the OWB.....right?

would it be 8 years? 10?
 
Last edited:
Anyone here say that they were replacing NG heating with an OWB? I must have missed that. Our system replaced an electric boiler and electric water heater, so the return costs were easy to calculate right from he previous year's electric bills. Electricity is cheap in Oregon as well. All hydro, but that is still more expensive than NG, or LP gas for heating.

Our cost was (and still is) nearly zero for firewood. The ex-GF has 85 acres in trees. Thinning and windthrow alone produces more wood than she can burn in a season. Only cost is for some gas for the truck to haul the wood down from other parts of the property. The chainsaw gas and labor are already factored into stand thinning and storm cleanup costs, and would occur regardless of heating type. So free firewood there is just that. Free.
 
Anyone here say that they were replacing NG heating with an OWB? I must have missed that. Our system replaced an electric boiler and electric water heater, so the return costs were easy to calculate right from he previous year's electric bills. Electricity is cheap in Oregon as well. All hydro, but that is still more expensive than NG, or LP gas for heating.

Our cost was (and still is) nearly zero for firewood. The ex-GF has 85 acres in trees. Thinning and windthrow alone produces more wood than she can burn in a season. Only cost is for some gas for the truck to haul the wood down from other parts of the property. The chainsaw gas and labor are already factored into stand thinning and storm cleanup costs, and would occur regardless of heating type. So free firewood there is just that. Free.

very good answer,,,,,,,,,,
 
Hardy stove

I bought a hardy h2 used for$1000.00 poured pad and installed myself and plumbed in the swimming pool also and had $1700.00 in it.
 
But...

That's a decent price...as far as payback is concerned, I have oil forced air heat, looking to payback in 4-5 yrs.
 

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