"Cyclops" ( Huztl bb build) vs. Husqvarna 365 Special built into a 372xpw

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
NO, not much difference..:) and thank you for watching. That saw moved from my "saw on the tractor" to a logging operation for more endurance testing. I have too many saws to test them properly so Those younger than me loggers will run it 10hrs a day for the rest of this summer & I will crack it open this winter for a "how did it hold up" video.....I am using the MS660 right now trying to learn them and then will go into the 365 build project. Bob and I want to prove a standard old school 48mm 365 special jug has, with a few tweaks any one with tools from Lowes; as much power to give as a standard 372 in stock condition or an aftermarket "bolt on" top end (with out mods of course). Point being its sometimes more rewarding to just tweak what you have with simply elbow grease & common hand tools and get the instant gratification than blowing money on another top end and then put a perfectly good cylinder out to pasture.
 
Good point! I have a few old 61 grey top saws I use for firewood! Not the newest on the block, but work Very well for 10" 18" Western Larch...
 
Which saw did you loan to the logger? Is it still running strong? Love your videos.
 
Did the 660 hold up ok. From your videos it looked like a strong saw. I watched your video over the 660 big bores and their free porting issue. Have you tried to fit a piston from another 56 mm saw to see if it it would solve the issue. Obviously the case would have to be clearanced. I was just wondering if it could be done?
 
Yes...just had to oem the chain adjuster and be more positive with the pulse tube where it attaches to the cylinder. Used safety wire to squeeze it to the fitting. On my two 56mm saws the first had more free port than the second and u can see how it runs...so on those cylinders its really a non issue....other brands may be worse. Either way its worth a check b 4 assembling a saw...I did try a few pistons hoping tolerances would work to my favor...they were...consistent; ( or ;)?
 
I was just wondering, because in the video you showed where you couldnt delete the gasket. What were measuments on the squish with that set up. I know most 660 stock oem you can't completely delete it, is that also true with the am, in addition to the Freeport issue.
 
I was just wondering, because in the video you showed where you couldnt delete the gasket. What were measuments on the squish with that set up. I know most 660 stock oem you can't completely delete it, is that also true with the am, in addition to the Freeport issue.

On the first 56mm the squish was .029-.30 on the second it was .030 . While .020 is great for the smaller saw, .030 isn't bad for that saw and frankly I don't know if I could pull it over with more compression! Especially now that it's broken in.

I actually never checked the squish on the 54mm. I should. It doesn't have the same geometry as the piston skirt is longer. My guess is I can do more with the 54mm simply because I can lower the cylinder without having to worry about free port issues. Maybe the next build will be a 54mm with a pop up...
 
On the first 56mm the squish was .029-.30 on the second it was .030 . While .020 is great for the smaller saw, .030 isn't bad for that saw and frankly I don't know if I could pull it over with more compression! Especially now that it's broken in.

I actually never checked the squish on the 54mm. I should. It doesn't have the same geometry as the piston skirt is longer. My guess is I can do more with the 54mm simply because I can lower the cylinder without having to worry about free port issues. Maybe the next build will be a 54mm with a pop up...

Now that is a video I will be happy to watch. I would love to see how you would turn down the base of a cylinder.
 
One of the projects on the pile..:) If the 54mm has the same type of geometry as the 56, all I'll have to do is remove the gasket to get interference...sort of like the Husqvarna 562's... If the squish is .030 with a .030in base gasket, then removing that gasket means interference. Then machining .020 from the crown of the piston to clear that squish band would leave a .020 "popup" into the combustion chamber..:) That's maybe 15 minutes of lathe time?? (With my "fixtures" to chuck those 54mm pistons....... hummm. Maybe a video in there somewhere. And do you really need a lathe to accomplish that?? )
 
Have you ever got Cyclops back to do a video on how it did or didn't hold up to the abuse?.
 
I'm actually working on a hutzl build of my own, did you do any work to the cylinder or did you just run it as it came? As of right now I'm gonna have it decked .020 so I can run a gasket and spike60 mod to the lower transfers. I may think about widening the intake and exhaust.
 
I think that would work quite well. With Cyclops I just did a base gasket delete and muffler mod and its a strong saw. Cyclops II is decked .030 and the transfers and exhaust raised as well. Also the lower transfers and intake was tweaked. Timing is Exhaust 101 ATDC and 22 degrees blow down & intake at 78 BTDC. Not wild but had to take a lot of aluminum to get there, and squish at .022 with a gasket. Each one is different which is why at a minimum checking squish and should degree the thing before chips fly.

Wondering if it makes sense to blend a popup into the mix as lowering the piston crown after decking the cylinder also moves the exhaust and transfers back in the right direction at the expense of a little compression.

I haven't had a chance to finish Cyclops II as the 562's and a bunch of work got pushed up as a priority and now a few 660's... Cyclops II won't make the video's until late summer is my guess. Although a glimpse was in a prior video...
 
I need t learn how to understand timing numbers, and how to read a degree wheel. As of right now I don't know what are good numbers and which are bad. Or what they even mean.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top