Jonsered Chainsaws

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I've never seen a functioning brake on those models, but as I understand it the brake consisted of a mechanical "plunger" that pressed against the clutch drum, as well as a switch that killed the ignition.

I don't have any good photos but if you look at the saw with the covers off you can see how the mechanical brake was intended to work.

Mark
 
Yep they were a dealer only installed option on the 621 and other models. I have seen a couple functioning ones over the years but they were not liked by most (all) cutters. The ign cutout was the most despised and the first thing to be disabled. Though it did stop the engine it also meant having to restart, generally deep in a brush pile. It wasn't so much a switch as it was just a wire attached to the spring loaded steel brake shoe which rode in a plastic guide tube above the clutch drum. When the brake was activated the shoe would ground the ign out on the drum. All in all the whole endevor was a failed attempt. At the time all the pro cutters were very used to not having any form of chain brake and and generally hated the whole idea as just one more thing to cause unessary grief and add to the cost of a saw.
 
I've never seen a functioning brake on those models, but as I understand it the brake consisted of a mechanical "plunger" that pressed against the clutch drum, as well as a switch that killed the ignition.

I don't have any good photos but if you look at the saw with the covers off you can see how the mechanical brake was intended to work.

Mark
I pulled off the clutch cover last night and realized that I just misunderstood the inner workings. It turns out that the chain brake works just fine!
 
Old got to play alongside newer yesterday evening.
930 Super obtained recently went real well- till I clipped a few pebbles in the bark (trees were dragged and placed by an excavator after they were dropped), so instead of field sharpening or pushing a dull chain- got the 2186 out the back of the truck.
In all fairness- from an unbiased user perspective- the 2186 is nicer and more comfortable- but the 930 sounds cooler!

1730397812821.png
 
Old got to play alongside newer yesterday evening.
930 Super obtained recently went real well- till I clipped a few pebbles in the bark (trees were dragged and placed by an excavator after they were dropped), so instead of field sharpening or pushing a dull chain- got the 2186 out the back of the truck.
In all fairness- from an unbiased user perspective- the 2186 is nicer and more comfortable- but the 930 sounds cooler!

View attachment 1215492

I'm certainly not one to comment on the newer saws, but if the 2094 is any indication of refinery and/or improvements, I'd have to believe big cc saws have gotten more comfortable to run and smoother overall. I hear that a lot, but I also wonder how many guys making a living with the present big cc saws have run the older ones as well day in and day out. I believe that a real comparison would be a week with one and then the other.

Running these vintage saws professionally, I HAD to have at least four saws on hand. I couldn't take the chance of failure from older saws. As I mentioned once, I got down to one saw due to a perfect storm of unusual circumstances on one job. 95% of the time, however, I never touched the other two.

Kevin
 
I'm certainly not one to comment on the newer saws, but if the 2094 is any indication of refinery and/or improvements, I'd have to believe big cc saws have gotten more comfortable to run and smoother overall. I hear that a lot, but I also wonder how many guys making a living with the present big cc saws have run the older ones as well day in and day out. I believe that a real comparison would be a week with one and then the other.

Running these vintage saws professionally, I HAD to have at least four saws on hand. I couldn't take the chance of failure from older saws. As I mentioned once, I got down to one saw due to a perfect storm of unusual circumstances on one job. 95% of the time, however, I never touched the other two.

Kevin

I hear you, back in the day- on any given day- always two saws available to me- unfortunately only one was a Jonsered as I was the Pear in a bucket of Apples, was too late to board the 910-930 train and ran 2094 falling- but 066 was the backup.
Pain in the butt swapping brands from number 1- master controls being back to front and all.
 
Jonsereds 451EV ktoś zamontował dłuższą świecę zapłonową i osłona już nie pasuje. Zobacz też, jak zmodyfikowano płytę prowadzącą 😉 czy zębatka 8-pinowa jest standardem w tym modelu?
 

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The models are the same but different from each other, there is a suspicion that the worse one is 452
 

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Picked up my first Jonsered over the weekend,...a cs2171.

Need to know if a front handle from a 372xp fits the 2171.

What other saws might share the same front handle?

Thanks!
 
Picked up my first Jonsered over the weekend,...a cs2171.

Need to know if a front handle from a 372xp fits the 2171.

What other saws might share the same front handle?

Thanks!

365/372 can be made to fit- but not really, rear mount holes in the tank do not line up the same.
2065 through to 2172 will fit perfectly.
 
365/372 can be made to fit- but not really, rear mount holes in the tank do not line up the same.
2065 through to 2172 will fit perfectly.
Thanks for that info.
Bought this saw and noticed the handle was bent,......snapped it while straightening.
less than 150 psi with no scoring but well worn. Missing various screws ( is locktite a rare commodity these days?)

Started and ran though.
 
Thanks for that info.
Bought this saw and noticed the handle was bent,......snapped it while straightening.
less than 150 psi with no scoring but well worn. Missing various screws ( is locktite a rare commodity these days?)

Started and ran though.

A good welder with a TIG can repair your original handle- sounds like a repaired handle might not look out of place with what you have,
 
365/372 can be made to fit- but not really, rear mount holes in the tank do not line up the same.
2065 through to 2172 will fit perfectly.

A good welder with a TIG can repair your original handle- sounds like a repaired handle might not look out of place with what you have,
Yeah,.....it's cracked above the upper spring mount. It will take more bending to get it straight though. Couldn't remember which had the angled handle, Husq or Jons.
Does the fitting a 372 bar require bending or just drilling new mount holes?

Time for a gas bath to assess.
 
I posted pics of a full-wrap in here on an 80 that had been broken by a helper. I finally bought the right size metric tubing and hand fit it into place.....then had a guy TIG it. Charged me a bloody fortune for probably less than a five-minute weld. I did all the work to make it fit perfectly and showed him how to have it jigged into the saw so as not to stress the AVs when finished.

Anyway, that was over a decade in the making, with false starts, bad advice, and my reluctance to just jury rig it.

Kevin
 
Thanks for that info.
Bought this saw and noticed the handle was bent,......snapped it while straightening.
less than 150 psi with no scoring but well worn. Missing various screws ( is locktite a rare commodity these days?)

Started and ran though.
Buff up the cylinder(Wigglesworth method), throw in Cabers and you're off to the races with probably 150+psi and little work.

Loctite is out there and always has been. While logging, many guys used super glue with good effect. I guess the moral there is; use something.

Kevin
 
I posted pics of a full-wrap in here on an 80 that had been broken by a helper. I finally bought the right size metric tubing and hand fit it into place.....then had a guy TIG it. Charged me a bloody fortune for probably less than a five-minute weld. I did all the work to make it fit perfectly and showed him how to have it jigged into the saw so as not to stress the AVs when finished.

Anyway, that was over a decade in the making, with false starts, bad advice, and my reluctance to just jury rig it.

Kevin
Handle broke on forward side of upper spring mount hole.
2011 build date and a blue coil.
Doesn't look as if any screw holes are stripped completely,....so a few longer screws.....
Once I get the handle fitted and reassembled, I'll then tear it down and re-ring.
Knock a couple small dents out of the muff from the inside and paint.
Do these mufflers benefit from opening some?

Trued up the rails on the 20" Oregon power match,.....good LPX and a scabbard. I may fit it with a 24.

Overall I don't think I took a beating at 85 bucks +tax out the door....

Are 372 handles too much work to fit? There are $10 chicoms all over sleazebay.
 
Handle broke on forward side of upper spring mount hole.
2011 build date and a blue coil.
Doesn't look as if any screw holes are stripped completely,....so a few longer screws.....
Once I get the handle fitted and reassembled, I'll then tear it down and re-ring.
Knock a couple small dents out of the muff from the inside and paint.
Do these mufflers benefit from opening some?

Trued up the rails on the 20" Oregon power match,.....good LPX and a scabbard. I may fit it with a 24.

Overall I don't think I took a beating at 85 bucks +tax out the door....

Are 372 handles too much work to fit? There are $10 chicoms all over sleazebay.
Muffler mods are controversial. They're more like down to individual models and what the factory did at that particular time. A lot of the time, you get no gains, and sometimes, you do. I can't help you with the handle, as your saw is way newer than anything I have. Bob H already said what would work.

Kevin
 

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