Garage Shelving (up high)?

[taylor6400]

No, not firewood related...but we have had garage discussions before. I am looking for something to put up high, about at he 8 ft mark, to store some of my large plastic totes, coolers, and other bulky things that i dont need that often. I found a product called Hyloft at the big box home improvement stores that are 4x4 and hang from your joists or trusses. Im not sure i want to go that route. Anyone have anything like that in their shop or garage? I have 12 ft ceiling and an 8 ft garage door at one place so i have that nice dead space up there just waiting to be filled up. i am thinking of using the garage door tract hanger angle material and bracing a shelf on the studs from the top rather than the bottom so the pressure is pulling and not pushing. Any input?

 

[savageactor7]

I got some 24"x36" plastic shelves at Lowes that'll hold 200lb per shelf.

They assemble fast with a rubber hammer and can be configured any height you want.

Item # 319440, they were on sale awhile back for $45 for a 5 shelf unit. But being plastic, that I don't fully trust, I reinforced all shelves with 1/4 plywood and the lower shelves hold over 200lbs.

I really like 'em and would buy them again.

 

[taylor6400]

I dont want floor shelving units...i just built these last night.

Need the plywood now but these are 8 ft long and 2 feet deep, just under 8 ft high and will hold my pickup...Bottom shelf is 24" high and thre rest are about 16. I also have 2 other pre made shelving units fromt he local hardware...this was the better way to go. I have $50 in them with the 2x4 framing and will have the plywood cost too...but will be less than $100 for this unit.

Now I want something that i am going to be bracing to the wall and/or ceiling up around 8 ft...so i dont take up anymore useable area on my floor or lower walls.

 

[2FatGuys]

I assume you mean wood studs, not steel. Wood does much better in compression than tension. So hanging the shelves from above will place more stress on the vertical supports than supporting them from below.

With that being said, you mention using the garage door track hanging angle for shelf support. My experience is that the garage door subcontractors usually use the least material that will work for proper support of their door (while in motion). I wouldn't suggest adding any load to those angles.

If you want to hang from above, you can add a "nailer" that spans several roof (or ceiling) joists to spread the load. Then use all-thread rod to support your shelf. 3/8" all-thread will support lots more than even a 2x8 in tension.

 

[taylor6400]

I assume you mean wood studs, not steel. Wood does much better in compression than tension. So hanging the shelves from above will place more stress on the vertical supports than supporting them from below.

With that being said, you mention using the garage door track hanging angle for shelf support. My experience is that the garage door subcontractors usually use the least material that will work for proper support of their door (while in motion). I wouldn't suggest adding any load to those angles.

If you want to hang from above, you can add a "nailer" that spans several roof (or ceiling) joists to spread the load. Then use all-thread rod to support your shelf. 3/8" all-thread will support lots more than even a 2x8 in tension.

I have wood studs in my building. What i meant by the garage tract hanger is using the same kind of angle that the installers use...not using the existing hangers, but adding my own for the shelves. Then i would support by lagging that angle into the wall studs and then running angle down to the shelves for support from above. If i use wood, yes i will brace from the shelf down to the wall studs (compression). I just liked the idea of supporting the shelves from above to keep everything up high and out of the way. I dont want to support from the ceiling really. I have white steel ceiling and i would rather not drill through it if i dont have to...it looks so nice!!

 

[2FatGuys]

I see McNichols "Flex-Angle" used a lot for applications like this. It may not ba available at your local "big box", but should be available at major construction material suppliers.

 

[Pulp Friction]

I use "Z-Brackets" I think they're called. Pretty flimsy until you screw them to the studs and even stronger when you link them together with 16-foot long pine boards. I think I have 96 feet of shelving, 48' on each side of my garage. 10' ceiling in there, and need a step stool to get to the top shelf. The installer determines how high on the studs to anchor the one-piece zig-zag bracket.

 

[Wood Doctor]

My "Dead Air" Storage Solution

I use all the dead space above my garage doors by building three 7' x 3' shelves using interior doors for platforms that rest on rectangular frames suspended from the ceiling joists. The suspended frames that hold the doors are made using 2 x 4's that I lag screwed into the joists. Each frame is about 6' apart and drops down about 32" from the ceiling and/or 6" above the garage door opener.

You will need a pair of frames for each door to rest on. Position long 2 x 4s at the bottom to support the door along both its length and width, otherwise it will sag. To reduce weight, you could get by with long 1 x 4s along the length. Don't cheat on the lag screws (I used 3/8" stock and washers), use good joinery for the frames with deck screws, and don't miss the ceiling joists when you screw the frames into place.

Use these for long-term storage. They cannot be reached without a ladder and without closing the garage door.

 

[taylor6400]

I use all the dead space above my garage doors by building three 7' x 3' shelves using interior doors for platforms that rest on rectangular frames suspended from the ceiling joists. The suspended frames that hold the doors are made using 2 x 4's that I lag screwed into the joists. Each frame is about 6' apart and drops down about 32" from the ceiling and/or 6" above the garage door opener.

You will need a pair of frames for each door to rest on. Position long 2 x 4s at the bottom to support the door along both its length and width, otherwise it will sag. To reduce weight, you could get by with long 1 x 4s along the length. Don't cheat on the lag screws (I used 3/8" stock and washers), use good joinery for the frames with deck screws, and don't miss the ceiling joists when you screw the frames into place.

Use these for long-term storage. They cannot be reached without a ladder and without closing the garage door.

THIS is what im interested in...thats exactly where i want to put them...I think i get your framing and door idea, but my issue is the joists (trusses in my case)...i have a steel ceiling so at most i want to lag a bracket to the bottom of the joist and then use a suspension method from that. I dont want to have to cut the steel. Thats where i was thinking i could lag that track hanger to the joist then use the same stuff as the suspension piece and attach that to a bracket lagged to the shelf.

 

[Wood Doctor]

THIS is what im interested in...thats exactly where i want to put them...I think i get your framing and door idea, but my issue is the joists (trusses in my case)...i have a steel ceiling so at most i want to lag a bracket to the bottom of the joist and then use a suspension method from that. I dont want to have to cut the steel. Thats where i was thinking i could lag that track hanger to the joist then use the same stuff as the suspension piece and attach that to a bracket lagged to the shelf.

Yes, that's an option. Steel is strong but a bear to work with. With steel, you could get by with two 3/8" bolts per frame (I used 4 lags ber frame) and drill holes for the bolts. Wood frames bolted to the steel trusses will work well unless those trusses are really thick and impossible to drill through to accept the bolts. If so, that forces you to design and make surrounding brackets.

I'll try to take a couple of Pics and post one of my units.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Here's one of them:

Two lags hold each vertical (4 per frame):

I made the end frames entirely in the shop with bridle joints and then bolted them to the ceiling joists. Then I added the long 1 x 4 horizontal supports under the doors last after I noticed the sag was obvious. Doors by themselves are notoriously weak in bending. Then I just slid the doors into place.

Simple lap joints everywhere at the corners would also have worked. That's where your craftsmanship comes into play. I imagine I built all three of these for less than $200. I may eventually add a couple more elsewhere, but a simpler solution is to give or throw items that you seldom use away rather than store them.

 

[Walt41]

I saw a neat system, similar to the Drs, for sale at Griots garage?
Anyhow, it had pulleys etc and the whole thing raised/lowered for loading/unloading. Was a cool idea.

 

[taylor6400]

Im confused as to how you have your verticle supports lagged...are those 2 lags at an angle up into the verticle piece? Also whats the lag (looks like a lag) into the narrow side of the verticle support at the top near the ceiling?

 

[NCPABill]

Sounds like your have a nice garage - I would want to keep it nice too. I think that if a guy took some all-thread, spray painted it white, it would match the ceiling. Position their locations where you want them and drill matching holes through the ceiling, and slide them up through. When you get to the topside, send them up through 2x framing nailed on the top of the truss members. I would think this would be less obtrusive than the bracketry screwed up through the ceiling.

I would hang uni-strut or perforated angle on the bottoms of the all-thread and build from there - maybe some 2x joist with plywood - kind of a suspended floor idea?

In any case - good luck with the project.

Bill

 

[taylor6400]

Sounds like your have a nice garage - I would want to keep it nice too. I think that if a guy took some all-thread, spray painted it white, it would match the ceiling. Position their locations where you want them and drill matching holes through the ceiling, and slide them up through. When you get to the topside, send them up through 2x framing nailed on the top of the truss members. I would think this would be less obtrusive than the bracketry screwed up through the ceiling.

I would hang uni-strut or perforated angle on the bottoms of the all-thread and build from there - maybe some 2x joist with plywood - kind of a suspended floor idea?

In any case - good luck with the project.

Bill

I'll consider this method too...I had debated the all thread idea but then didnt know where to go...the Uni-strut is a good idea. I have 2 concerns...will the all-thread be wobbly when trying to slide bulky things onto/off of the shelves? And I have blown in insulation above the steel. The more i can stay away from diggind in that stuff the happier i am! But i am going to have to get up there anyway and nail some bracing in for a place to hang a couple deer this fall and winter. I guess i can do it then while im already covered in cellulose and breathing it in.

 

[NCPABill]

I'll consider this method too...I had debated the all thread idea but then didnt know where to go...the Uni-strut is a good idea. I have 2 concerns...will the all-thread be wobbly when trying to slide bulky things onto/off of the shelves? And I have blown in insulation above the steel. The more i can stay away from diggind in that stuff the happier i am! But i am going to have to get up there anyway and nail some bracing in for a place to hang a couple deer this fall and winter. I guess i can do it then while im already covered in cellulose and breathing it in.

Good point - maybe you could nut a plate to the all-thread and cable X brace each side? Anyhow, you're right - the swaying would have to be considered.

Bill

 

[PLAYINWOOD]

vertical 4x4's to the top plate 2x6 for cross bracing, 3/4 or 1/2 for the shelves themselves. All used lumber.

You could drive a truck on it and still hold.

As for hanging some deer, a 3 inch heavy walled piped that straddles about three or four trusses and a chainfall,rope pulley or come-a-long. You could lift that same truck.
Just an idea.

BTW my garage walls are 12 foot 2x4's sitting on a block and a half above the concrete floor. 13 feetish I believe

 

[BPS. LLC]

Here's one of them:

Two lags hold each vertical (4 per frame):

I made the end frames entirely in the shop with bridle joints and then bolted them to the ceiling joists. Then I added the long 1 x 4 horizontal supports under the doors last after I noticed the sag was obvious. Doors by themselves are notoriously weak in bending. Then I just slid the doors into place.

Simple lap joints everywhere at the corners would also have worked. That's where your craftsmanship comes into play. I imagine I built all three of these for less than $200. I may eventually add a couple more elsewhere, but a simpler solution is to give or throw items that you seldom use away rather than store them.

I did something similar using chains. I laid two leftover 4x4's across my trusses and fastened them down to distrubute the load over 4 trusses. Using eye bolts I hung 36" of heavy duty chain down to the four corners of a sheet of 3/4" plywood. I put 2x6's on 16" centers underneath the plywood.

I did this over both garage doors. Its great for stuff that you don't need that often. My wife quickly claimed one of them for holiday decorations, and we have coolers and other large bulky items on top that take up a lot of floor space.

They sway slightly if you would slide something on them with some weight. They could easily be anchored better, but I like them the way they are. You can get to the one end with the garage door open.

 

[taylor6400]

I did something similar using chains. I laid two leftover 4x4's across my trusses and fastened them down to distrubute the load over 4 trusses. Using eye bolts I hung 36" of heavy duty chain down to the four corners of a sheet of 3/4" plywood. I put 2x6's on 16" centers underneath the plywood.

I did this over both garage doors. Its great for stuff that you don't need that often. My wife quickly claimed one of them for holiday decorations, and we have coolers and other large bulky items on top that take up a lot of floor space.

They sway slightly if you would slide something on them with some weight. They could easily be anchored better, but I like them the way they are. You can get to the one end with the garage door open.

I like your idea as well...i could fasten one side to the wall studs right above the garage door to eliminate movement and then use the chains from trusses on the open side. I could see this working and being fairly easy to do...me likes. I can see much debate this weekend...im sure i'll find the solution in the bottom of a beer can at some point tomorrow evening!