Homelite410
Hack with a CNC Mill
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2010
- Messages
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Here is a cool wedge I found, anyone ever seen one?
I have successfully used white oak, black locust and red mulberry. Also hard maple and cherry.
Usually I split a billet first with a froe or maul. Then I know exact the orientation of the grain.
I take the billet to the band saw, cut a flat parallel to the split surface,
and make wedges of various thicknesses for felling, splitting and holding the kerf open when riipping.
I use a 3 tpi band on the saw, so it leaves a surface that has a bit of tooth.
The wedges get MUCH tougher when dry.
When felling a big and scary tree, I will use many wedges.
Even oak will buckle if you hit it enough.
And if the wood is slick like elm I have had wooden wedges ejected ten feet, like shooting a watermelon seed.
So assume a dynamic stance. And keep your guard up at all times
It's my job to lay the tree where it is suppose to go. Good wedges are some of my tools, just like a good saw and driving axe. I'll pay for the good ones. You dont fault a good mechanic for having good wrenches!
Can you define "good wedges".
The only ones I've bought are from the local Stihl dealer where I bought my 362-CM. I have no clue if they're good or not. (Stihl wedges).
Interesting mike. I haven't sen one like that. Maybe a splitting wedge?Here is a cool wedge I found, anyone ever seen one?
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