hotblast 1537g

[LANNY]

Hello all, just thought to ask if anyone else has ever installed a us stove
hotblast wood furnace outside. We just put it on the end of the house and
ducted it into my ducts and cold air return..We built a small metal building
over it to protect it. Works well, but uses about four loads of wood a day.
My question is, does anyone have any ideas how to boost air flow?
I would like it to blow a little harder, as my house is long and the air
flow tends to slack off a bit at the ends of the duct runs. Any input would
be appreciated. Lanny

 

[zipper1081]

Hello all, just thought to ask if anyone else has ever installed a us stove
hotblast wood furnace outside. We just put it on the end of the house and
ducted it into my ducts and cold air return..We built a small metal building
over it to protect it. Works well, but uses about four loads of wood a day.
My question is, does anyone have any ideas how to boost air flow?
I would like it to blow a little harder, as my house is long and the air
flow tends to slack off a bit at the ends of the duct runs. Any input would
be appreciated. Lanny

I also have a 1537g mine is in my basement it does a good job by it self. The blowers are not that strong on that model. Try using the blower on your furance in your house to help move the air better. I have also read were guys have upgraded the blowers on this model. The only problem that I have with mine is I wish the burn times were longer.

 

[LANNY]

Reply To Zipper

Thanks, Zipper, how long burn times do you get? I installed the draft inducer
kit and the thing ate wood. Took it back off and it heats just about the
same for me. I can pack it full and damp it down, still have to get up once
in the middle of the night, or often just turn on the gas heat, keep it set at
60. But the way I installed it , as the furnace blower blows harder, it just cancels out the woodburner pressure. I guess it would have to be reducted
somehow.

 

[zipper1081]

Thanks, Zipper, how long burn times do you get? I installed the draft inducer
kit and the thing ate wood. Took it back off and it heats just about the
same for me. I can pack it full and damp it down, still have to get up once
in the middle of the night, or often just turn on the gas heat, keep it set at
60. But the way I installed it , as the furnace blower blows harder, it just cancels out the woodburner pressure. I guess it would have to be reducted
somehow.

I get about 4-6 hours of burn time. I did not put the draft inducer on mine. I did put a manual damper in the exhaust it helped out. You may want to try it.

 

[LANNY]

Good Looking Install

Looks like the same unit, is that a thermometer on the front? Mine has
nothing there. It would be nice to have it in the basement, but I dont
have a basement.I'm still trying to devise a way to get the air pressure
or should I say flow...up a bit.It still heats the house, and it has to be
under 30 degrees or it gets too hot in the house..Thanks.

 

[zipper1081]

Looks like the same unit, is that a thermometer on the front? Mine has
nothing there. It would be nice to have it in the basement, but I dont
have a basement.I'm still trying to devise a way to get the air pressure
or should I say flow...up a bit.It still heats the house, and it has to be
under 30 degrees or it gets too hot in the house..Thanks.

I had a guy at work get me a thermometer with a magnet on the back that goes up to 800.

 

[drew2333]

I also put my Hotblast outside and tied it into the central heat and air ductwork, did not want to carry wood into the house. I enclosed it in a 10'x12' prefab metal garden shed. The stove works ok at maintaining a temperature but struggles to raise the temp much over 65-67 degrees. I installed it into the output side of the central unit. The manufacturer says that the stove can not be plumbed into the return air side of the central unit for fear of damaging internal components in the existing central system. I am going to change my set up and go into the return air side. If I burn up my central unit, so be it. I need to get more output out of the stove and I believe this will do it. The problem I have been having is that the blowers on the wood burner are not strong enough when running by itself. When I run it with the central blower on I am trying to push heat into a pressurized duct work. I am letting the thermal disk on the stove turn the fans on and off. I have a switch that I put in my central air thermostat wire which switches the heat call wire and the fan call wire. This new fan call wire is then switched by a relay that is turned on and off by the wood furnace thermo disk power. This allows the wood furnace fans to operate as they are designed. Turning on and off with the firebox temp. The central fan will only come on when there is a heat call from the central unit and the Hotblast fans are on. will post more as I go. I will probably not know if I have damaged my unit until next summer when I turn the air back on. I hope US stove is being conservative with their recommendations.

 

[cmetalbend]

Getting ready to travel this road. Hotblast type, outside, inclosed building. my questoin is do you have to use solid ductwork? I was considering using flexible, insulated (4) runs, 2 hot,2returns incased in a square plenum of sorts, until it reached the house where it would divide.

 

[smokinj]

Thanks, Zipper, how long burn times do you get? I installed the draft inducer
kit and the thing ate wood. Took it back off and it heats just about the
same for me. I can pack it full and damp it down, still have to get up once
in the middle of the night, or often just turn on the gas heat, keep it set at
60. But the way I installed it , as the furnace blower blows harder, it just cancels out the woodburner pressure. I guess it would have to be reducted
somehow.

dont wast your money on the inducer

 

[smokinj]

Getting ready to travel this road. Hotblast type, outside, inclosed building. my questoin is do you have to use solid ductwork? I was considering using flexible, insulated (4) runs, 2 hot,2returns incased in a square plenum of sorts, until it reached the house where it would divide.

i'd run metal

 

[smokinj]

Looks like the same unit, is that a thermometer on the front? Mine has
nothing there. It would be nice to have it in the basement, but I dont
have a basement.I'm still trying to devise a way to get the air pressure
or should I say flow...up a bit.It still heats the house, and it has to be
under 30 degrees or it gets too hot in the house..Thanks.

I have one of these on a heavy duty dimer switch http://cgi.ebay.com/8-Vortex-Centri...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad3cfde4a

 

[LANNY]

I used flex duct at first, melted almost immediately. As Crappie Keith posts regularly, code for a forced air furnace is all metal. the problem is the heat is inconsistent as to temperature, varies from warm to very hot. I had metal for 20 ft and still had some melting at the first takeoff. I have since moved on to a shaver owb and completely replaced all my ducts,which were wrecked by the hotblast. The hotblast will heat your home, as I did for three years, but I got sick of getting up to fill it and coming home to a cold house, as I work 12 hrs a day....Lanny

 

[CrappieKeith]

Hotblast furnaces are not built to produce all of the btu's available,nor are they able to exchange the btu's you do make quick enough as per their installation...see draft speeds of .04-.06 inches of water column.Plus with the lack of heat exchange surface area they are limited immeadiately no matter how they would be installed.

Your story Lanny is one that I see all over. That's a reason I come here.
I'll try to educate where I can to help others get what they need to heat their homes with less wood and less loadings.
Your in Tennesee, imagine what kid of wood you'd need in that HB where it really gets cold!
There is a Yukon for most everyone sized home unless your over 5000 s/f.
Getting a furnace that never goes out on just a couple loads a day let's the customer win.
If they win....we win!
I live in northern Mn. and my Jack never goes out on 2 loads a day.