Husky 372xp stripped inner dawg screw threads
- Thread starter stihl 440
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I believe that bolt goes all the way through and helps hold the front of oil tank together. I am not so sure I would try to drill anything with the fear of breaking into the oil tank. I have seen people use a slightly longer bolt and a small nut on the backside.
Steveo_supremo
ArboristSite Guru
Can't put a nut on the back of the top one. It doesn't hold the cases together. I have repaired them successfully with a time-sert. A heli-coil would work too.
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Have seen them drilled through and a longer bolt with a nut,,,
The simonized saw that went to Ireland was fixed that way
The simonized saw that went to Ireland was fixed that way
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SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
No.
Funny you ask this... I was just working on that very same problem! If you put a bigger bolt in there, you'll probably end up eventually breaking the entire corner of the case off, like I had to repair on this case:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT6221.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Then I'll drill and install a helicoil because the result is stronger than the original.
But if the hole is simply stripped, and the case aint' busted out, you can use a helicoil and the end result (if done properly) is stronger than the original:
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/RFYa6sjhh_E?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/RFYa6sjhh_E?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object>
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
My 395 had a bolt striped out in the same spot,,causeing a oil tank leak. That bolt goes through that case half and threads into the other side, IIRC. I broke the case apart then drilled and tapped the hole to the next fine thread size. One of the dowel pins is also in that hole, Drilled it out too. Been fine ever since.
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Steveo_supremo
ArboristSite Guru
The top bolt goes all the way through and the bottom bolt does not.
I stand corrected (sort of). The hole does go all the way through, but the Dog bolt does not hold the cases together. I suppose a person could drill the threads right out and use a longer case bolt with a nut on the dog side.
trappermike
ArboristSite Guru
How long is the screw that goes in that hole? I can see it doesn't hold the cases together,there is a screw opposite of it that holds the cases together there. How far in does the screw go? How far in are it's threads?
I wished I had one in front of me to look at...
I wished I had one in front of me to look at...
Ask and you shall receive....
I was wrong on there only being one bolt that went all the way through, Steveo_supremo and trappermike were correct about there being two bolts. I was able to drill the hole all the way through in just a few seconds, junk case so I had nothing to lose. I do have a suggestion if you were to use this method. I would screw a short bolt into the case from the rewind side before drilling from the PTO side, there was a lot of metal shavings. In a prefect world the case should be held together tight enough to keep the shavings out but it would reek havoc if just a few of them made it inside. Flush the hole out before you remove the bolt from the rewind side.
Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Putting a long capscrew all the way through is a last resort. I would repair that with an M5-0.8 keen-sert. Tap drill size 17/64", thread M8-1.25, insert keen-sert, drive the two locking tangs down to secure it. PS., once you start the threads M8-1.25, finish with a bottoming tap. Threading 1/2" deep is all you need. Never use your last resort first, or you blow all your chances in between.
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Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, I am saying a Keen-sert buddy. Google them.
stihl 440
Addicted to ArboristSite
Much appreciated bud thanks!
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
I don't want to get into some sort of keen-sert/ Heli-coil brand war, and I don't know about keen-serts, but I do know Helicoils work and last just fine and I imagine "keen serts" work fine too. I imagine keen-serts must be a sleeve type and the Helicoils are a wound coil.
Here's the finished result of the saw I did yesterday:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT6241.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT6243.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helicoil
Found a vid on Keen serts:
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Looks like the keen serts are a sleeve type with locking keys to prevent them from backing out (the installation tool looks pricey though http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1309126979/ref=a9_sc_1?ie=UTF8&search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=keensert), Helicoils have have a barb at the end of the coil, therefore the barb must be below the surface of the hole or it could back out. I got into Helicoils because the cost of an installation set was reasonable.
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Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
The locking tangs can be driven in easily with a nice 3/16" pin punch. Tap them in one at a time nice and square, takes about 10 seconds. There are only 2 tangs on the smaller inserts.
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