Stihl 009L

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psc1947

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Is there anything special about the Stihl 009L? Saw one but had never heard of it before.

Just cruising sales. Cancer and a broken back back-to-back trying to get moving again.
Four weed eaters and five chainsaws running this week (almost all Stihls).
 
I've got a top handle 009 (38mm P/C), 14" 3/8 picco B/C. Decent saw with good power for what it is (good torque reed valve engine), I use it only for pruning, or cutting small firewood on ice fishing trips.

Getting hard to find parts. I've got a NOS oil pump spare for it. A guy in Germany, member here, has oil pump parts.
 
I've got a top handle 009 (38mm P/C), 14" 3/8 picco B/C. Decent saw with good power for what it is (good torque reed valve engine), I use it only for pruning, or cutting small firewood on ice fishing trips.

Getting hard to find parts. I've got a NOS oil pump spare for it. A guy in Germany, member here, has oil pump parts.
I managed to get my 009 working after many years, replacing the oil pump diaphragm with parts from the guy in Germany. (Weiss). Great service and the only good souls that still produce these bits.
 
Carburetors, (especially the first couple years) fuel tank vent and oil pump were biggest culprits. Make sure there is a fast idle. If not, you will need to adjust the throttle rod length (bend). The long sparkplug wire is noted for leakage. Started making them in 1981.
 
Carburetors, (especially the first couple years) fuel tank vent and oil pump were biggest culprits. Make sure there is a fast idle. If not, you will need to adjust the throttle rod length (bend). The long sparkplug wire is noted for leakage. Started making them in 1981.
Yes, the early all orange ones can be an issue. the later off white were a lot better
 
Carburetors, (especially the first couple years) fuel tank vent and oil pump were biggest culprits. Make sure there is a fast idle. If not, you will need to adjust the throttle rod length (bend). The long sparkplug wire is noted for leakage. Started making them in 1981.
I am trying to repair a 009l and a 011AV. They seem to be very similar. Regarding the fuel tank vent on both of them ..there is a bayonet fitting that protrudes from the gas tank and had a broken deteriorated hose attached to it that ran to the clutch side of the saw, and had a small piece of sponge attached to the end of the hose with a zip tie. I disconnected the hose and installed a rubber duck bill check valve on the end of the fitting? Has this been done before and will it work? I have it installed on the 009L and the saw a is running.

On the 011AV I have not been as lucky the gas pickup filter had fallen a part in the tank and bunch of crud had made it to the filter screen inside of the carb. I cleaned all of that up and removed and repositioned both the metering and fuel pump diaphrams...but it still doesn't run correctly. I was able to get it started but it wouldn't run very well off of choke or accelerate. I have a ultra sonic cleaner and I could run it through a cleaning cycle. Someone had been fooling with the carb on the 011AV as it was loose, the gasket between the carb and the manifold was tattered and I am not sure it is staying in position properly.

The carb is a Wabro WT-21-1. I have looked at a IPL for the carb and because there are multiple variations I am not sure if there is supposed to be a spring on the fuel pump diaphram. Do you have any insight on this? The IPL shows a purge pump option which is not applicable.. I am assuming that the spring option is not used on this version of the carb.. But since it has been fooled with I can't be sure. Since both of the diaphrams seemed to be in relatively good shape I think that someone may have had it apart. I was looking at the IPL to identify the correct t repair kit...anyway that spring threw me for a loop.

Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated
Spit
 
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