fearofpavement
Trying them all
This is the first saw of this series I've ever owned. It is in physically good shape but was straight gassed. I pulled it apart today and sho nuff. Looks like it was straight gassed... lol.
My straight gassed Stihl MS250
- Thread starter fearofpavement
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I am including some pics of the piston as it is a good example of the difference between straight gas damage and a saw that was run lean. A lean saw will typically scuff the piston on the exhaust side only. A saw with damage on just the intake side is usually a sign of a missing or compromised air filter. A straight gassed saw will typically have damage all the way around on the piston.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
This saw passed the "starter rope" drop test for compression and it also felt normal when pulling the starter rope. It did the usual "whump whump whump" so nothing like a peek inside when buying a saw.
The seller had informed me it had been straight gassed so I expected to find what I found. I ordered the parts from Huztl to put it back together. I'm not even going to try to save the cylinder even though it may clean up. for <$40 in parts I'm getting everything I'll need to reassemble. Didn't find any other issues during disassembly other than the usual grime.
The pics of the saw are "as received".
The seller had informed me it had been straight gassed so I expected to find what I found. I ordered the parts from Huztl to put it back together. I'm not even going to try to save the cylinder even though it may clean up. for <$40 in parts I'm getting everything I'll need to reassemble. Didn't find any other issues during disassembly other than the usual grime.
The pics of the saw are "as received".
You can get some really good buys on straight-gassed saws if you can rebuild them. Most aftermarket parts work rather well. The 250 and other clam shell designs are a bit tougher to rebuild because you have to take them down so far. However, that's part of the hobby. Check over the crank bearings and seals while you are at it. The 310 I recently worked on had bearings in such bad shape that they were missing a ball apiece and the piston was locked up. I beefed it up to a 390. The saw runs today:
That's my shop-made pull-cord handle using quartersawn white oak.
That's my shop-made pull-cord handle using quartersawn white oak.
dougand3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you gotten parts from Huztl before? I have a Husq 55 cyl/piston kit enroute from them. For $33, I figured it was worth a try.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I've ordered parts from them on a number of occasions. Been happy with their products. I've used a couple of their piston/cylinder kits for the 1127 series saws but this will be the first one for an 1123 series saw.
They're also delivering some bar nuts I happened to win on an auction. The piston/cyl kit from Stihl is about $200. The kit from Huztl including a bunch of other parts was under $40.
Huztl will be on a long slow boat from China.
dougand3
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've bought trimmer parts from Hutzl. Took 10-14 days to Alabama. You used to be able to win a Stihl MS 180 or MS 250 carb at auction for $3. Now, word is out and they are $8-12. No name on carb - probably Ruxing.
MS250 or 025 the best cheap chainsaw Stihl made but hard to work on. Steve
Closely followed by the MS290 or 029. Stihl dealer mechanics usually swear AT them, not BY them.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I won't keep it. I didn't find it any more difficult to take apart than the 1127 series saws. Maybe less disassembly required in total. Both series are challenging because of the numbers of parts involved but by using ice cube trays to stick the smalls in, I can keep it organized. When I get it done, I'll use it for several tanks of gas to "prove" it and then put it on the market. I was using an 024 today and it cuts pretty good but that one will go eventually as well as I have the later version 026 and don't need the 024. I like getting saws I've never had, using them and then keeping the special ones and passing the rest along.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Assembled the MS250 today. It was quite a pain as there are a number of places where multiple items need to go together at the same time. This is the first one of this series I've done and I think the next one will go better. I started and ran it for about 45 seconds to a minute and then shut it down and headed in for supper. Needs the bar installed, oiler checked, chain sharpened and a tuning and then should be ready for testing. I have limbing to do so should be able to do that in the next couple days. Once I get some time on it, it'll go on the block. Maybe this fall if not before.
Last evening I traded a Mac 1-42 and some cash for two Stihl 039 powerheads that are both scored. (well, most of two powerheads as they both were missing multiple parts. They are both lean scored and I may try to clean the cylinders instead of just replacing them. I may just build up one and save the other for parts. Not sure yet.
Once I get some time on the saw, I'll write up a little review on the Huztl parts I used.
Last evening I traded a Mac 1-42 and some cash for two Stihl 039 powerheads that are both scored. (well, most of two powerheads as they both were missing multiple parts. They are both lean scored and I may try to clean the cylinders instead of just replacing them. I may just build up one and save the other for parts. Not sure yet.
Once I get some time on the saw, I'll write up a little review on the Huztl parts I used.
BTDT but with a 311 that I upgraded to a 390. Clam shells give me the creeps. Some guys like them for reasons I have never understood. I'd like a buck for every one that got taken apart and could not be re-assembled.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Lol - because not all clamshells are Stihls.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've got two 250's and a 025 torn down right now. None of them have what I'd call a bevel on the ports. All of them were run lean, although one also had a slight bit of scoring on one side of the intake.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Few of the engines I have looked at have had much of a bevel on the ports from the factory.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
So I did the final assembly on the MS250 today and put it in some wood. Had a bit of a challenge getting it tuned before realizing the carb screws were way out of whack. I didn't do anything to the carb and maybe they were trying to get it to run after buggering it up.
At any rate, with much tweaking, I finally got it running fairly decent and started cutting cookies out of a 12" piece of pecan. On one cut, the saw lost rpm, made the kind of sound you never want to hear and quit. I gulped, pulled on the rope which wouldn't move and walked back to the shop with my tail between my legs.
Long story short (and happy) is that the flywheel had come loose. Cleaned it again, indexed it, torqued it extra well and the saw runs again.
Went back to the cookie pile and enlarged it tuning here and there. I'm happy with where it is now. Next project will be to do some tree limbing with it. I'll run several tanks of fuel through it before it goes on the market.
The Huztl cylinder kit I used would have been plug and play but I couldn't resist doing a bit of work on it. Just a little...
At any rate, with much tweaking, I finally got it running fairly decent and started cutting cookies out of a 12" piece of pecan. On one cut, the saw lost rpm, made the kind of sound you never want to hear and quit. I gulped, pulled on the rope which wouldn't move and walked back to the shop with my tail between my legs.
Long story short (and happy) is that the flywheel had come loose. Cleaned it again, indexed it, torqued it extra well and the saw runs again.
Went back to the cookie pile and enlarged it tuning here and there. I'm happy with where it is now. Next project will be to do some tree limbing with it. I'll run several tanks of fuel through it before it goes on the market.
The Huztl cylinder kit I used would have been plug and play but I couldn't resist doing a bit of work on it. Just a little...
That flywheel nut has to be torqued beyond belief. Take a look at the torque specs. The key means nothing for holding the flywheel in place. It's only a indicator for timing. The nut with the conical shaft does all the work for securing the flywheel. It can and will come loose if torqued below specs.
