A few days ago I started milling some logs to be used in a Nature Playground that included a couple of pieces of park furniture. As usual progress is slow.
I haven't been at the tree loppers yard for a few months and when you're away things get lost, blunt, broken and moved around.
First step was sharpen a BSM band.
The milling is pretty basic as it just involves bucking the logs to lengh, and then flat topping and bottoming the logs using the BSM.
This one just squeezed by on the BSM in terms of height and width
The BSM was cutting quite nicely with a freshly sharpened band - wood is a Western Australian Eucalypt called Marri - relatively soft.
Two of the logs were too big and too cumbersome for the BSM so I had to break out the Chainsaw mill.
By cumbersome I mean the logs had branch unions that made it awkward to mill on the BSM
It's been over a year since I did any serious chainsawing and boy am i tired after doing this.
Heres the trusty BIL mill flat bottoming this log.
The cut was 38" wide at the widest part.
The BSM only does 35" and the 42" bar on the BIL mill does 39.5"
Normally I just sit my rails on top of the log and screw dogs (pointed bolts) into the ends of the logs.
On uneven logs and logs with sloping ends the amount of "grab" with this method can be quite limited
This time I decided to try a mounting method I saw on this forum, basically cut a notch into the ends of the log and use 5" hex socket screws through a piece of 6 x 1.5" wood into the notched out log. The weight of the rails and any twist is taken by the log rather than dogs so there is much better crossways stability of the log rails .
Wood is a rare Western Australian Eucalpt called Tuart - bloody hard stuff and it fair gums up the chain so have to run double aux oiler flow.
More pics as the work proceeds
I haven't been at the tree loppers yard for a few months and when you're away things get lost, blunt, broken and moved around.
First step was sharpen a BSM band.
The milling is pretty basic as it just involves bucking the logs to lengh, and then flat topping and bottoming the logs using the BSM.
This one just squeezed by on the BSM in terms of height and width
The BSM was cutting quite nicely with a freshly sharpened band - wood is a Western Australian Eucalypt called Marri - relatively soft.
Two of the logs were too big and too cumbersome for the BSM so I had to break out the Chainsaw mill.
By cumbersome I mean the logs had branch unions that made it awkward to mill on the BSM
It's been over a year since I did any serious chainsawing and boy am i tired after doing this.
Heres the trusty BIL mill flat bottoming this log.
The cut was 38" wide at the widest part.
The BSM only does 35" and the 42" bar on the BIL mill does 39.5"
Normally I just sit my rails on top of the log and screw dogs (pointed bolts) into the ends of the logs.
On uneven logs and logs with sloping ends the amount of "grab" with this method can be quite limited
This time I decided to try a mounting method I saw on this forum, basically cut a notch into the ends of the log and use 5" hex socket screws through a piece of 6 x 1.5" wood into the notched out log. The weight of the rails and any twist is taken by the log rather than dogs so there is much better crossways stability of the log rails .
Wood is a rare Western Australian Eucalpt called Tuart - bloody hard stuff and it fair gums up the chain so have to run double aux oiler flow.
More pics as the work proceeds