Nik's Poulan Thread

[s sidewall]

Does anyone know where I can get a good check valve that pulsates the oiler on a micro series saw. I have one that is letting bar oil seep into crankcase.

@Todd Loosli

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[hotshot]

Those Toddilator valves work very well & can be serviced for replacing its duckbill by tapping the little brass plug hole #6-40 & pulling it out...

Even if you can find a NOS Poulan #530069142, the duckbill inside will be melted goo.

 

[svk]

Then my first wild thing I did with 66 piston for testing out, back 2012-13.

View attachment 847608View attachment 847609

Where do you find all of your Poulans? Locally or all over?

There was very little Poulan exposure up here prior to the box store saws.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Where do you find all of your Poulans? Locally or all over?

There was very little Poulan exposure up here prior to the box store saws.

In bigger 65cc-85cc I can only recall 415's 475 5400 8500 local. Rest of bigger were from everywhere.

Now the 60cc 54cc stuff and under local

 

[svk]

Put the 505 through it’s first paces today with a little noodling project

 

[fossil]

Does anyone know where I can get a good check valve that pulsates the oiler on a micro series saw. I have one that is letting bar oil seep into crankcase.

Hi John. It's been a long time since we met at Gregg's great GTG in 2013

If your'e feeling ambitious you can rebuild those valves

This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.


There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing. The brass (some are steel) bushing can be pulled out with a screw

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.

A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.

Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing

It works great.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Hi John. It's been a long time since we met at Gregg's great GTG in 2013

If your'e feeling ambitious you can rebuild those valves

This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.

View attachment 848229
There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing. The brass (some are steel) bushing can be pulled out with a screw

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.

A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.

Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing

It works great.

Yes it has been a long time ago since we met @OhioGregg 's and how I wish he would have another but totally understand how much work, time and $ the GTG's are. I still have the Tshirts from the 2 I went to.

I did order some more duckbills and plan on trying to do what you mentioned above. Just pondering a bit ago on if I wasted my money on them because I have a good amount here for the 306/245 fuel caps and such but not sure if they are the same part # without some research.

 

[hotshot]

Hi John. It's been a long time since we met at Gregg's great GTG in 2013

If your'e feeling ambitious you can rebuild those valves

This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.

View attachment 848229
There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing. The brass (some are steel) bushing can be pulled out with a screw

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.

A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.

Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing

It works great.

Here’s a NOS valve that I had to rebuild, then JB epoxied the midget sized screen back on. Did the same thing to the original one in the saw, and it’s screen is holding on fine.

But you’re right, the screen is not necessary as the inside of the crankcase should be spotless if you’re running a good foam air filter.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Any body have a fullwrap for the 4200 series saws they want to sell me?

 

[redunshee]

This may not apply to the PP 190 you guys are discussing. It just jogged my memory that I had this service bulletin referring to a Super 25 with a ring. I tied it on mine, did not like it or fit well for me.View attachment 847017
View attachment 847018

Dang, mine is on wrong. Who knew!

 

[Woodslasher]

I’ve heard from friends that Poulans got their name because when you go to start them you’ve got to poulan ‘em and poulan ‘em and....



Okay, enough rabble rousing for today. Is there any interest in Poulan-branded chains/bars? I’ve got a 28 inch Poulan/Windsor b/c combo I acquired that fits my 80cc Macs and was wondering if it would be worthwhile to sell it and invest in a McCulloch branded 28 inch bar.

 

[3000 FPS]

I’ve heard from friends that Poulans got their name because when you go to start them you’ve got to poulan ‘em and poulan ‘em and....



Okay, enough rabble rousing for today. Is there any interest in Poulan-branded chains/bars? I’ve got a 28 inch Poulan/Windsor b/c combo I acquired that fits my 80cc Macs and was wondering if it would be worthwhile to sell it and invest in a McCulloch branded 28 inch bar.

There could be some interest in that. You could put it in the classifieds and see what happens.

 

[Woodslasher]

Here’s pics of the afore mentioned bar and chain. If it weren’t for the stenciling I’d just sand it and paint the McCulloch logo on it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Here’s pics of the afore mentioned bar and chain. If it weren’t for the stenciling I’d just sand it and paint the McCulloch logo on it.
View attachment 848637View attachment 848638View attachment 848639

Is it .404 or 3/8ths?

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Is it .404 or 3/8ths?

I would like to know also. I'm guessing 3/8. That's what the mount looks like to small for the big dolmar poulan 5500/6000 mount

 

[Woodslasher]

3/8. Someone’s already pm’ed me fyi. It is a D196 mount bar.

 

[svk]

I’d advise you to keep that bar, you’ll pay an arm and a leg for a decent Mac branded bar now that Billy Ray put McC saws back into favor.

 

[svk]

Got my 245 going today. Unfortunately it’s 3400 cousin wasn’t as willing to fire up. I’ll give it a rip tomorrow with the banana bar and then find a better bar from the garage to put on.

 

[Woodslasher]

I’d advise you to keep that bar, you’ll pay an arm and a leg for a decent Mac branded bar now that Billy Ray put McC saws back into favor.

I don’t mind modifying a husky bar to fit my Mac if someone else will enjoy seeing a poulan bar on their poulan.

 

[svk]

You could always do Stihl mount with bar adaptor as well