Pinched chain, chain comes off bar... chain ruined. Repairable?

[glenintenn]

I posted a separate post about my Ryobi 3714 bogging down and it turned out that a 6" tree which had pinched the bar ruined both the bar and the chain.

I had the same experience again with a much smaller tree today (with the new chain. argh). I misjudged the lean on a 15' tall oak which was about 3+" in diameter. Instead of falling away as the saw cut through it sat right on the saw. The saw threw the chain off and quit within a second or two.

After pulling the chain off, I realized that the chain would no longer sit down into the bar on 2 links of the chain (2 of the drive links will not sit down into the bar -- I guess these were the links which took the brunt of the tree binding them). I can force them down into the bar but then the chain will not rotate on the bar at all. Inspecting the chain, there's no obvious left/right bend or excessive play. The drive links look slightly chewed up but the teeth are not missing or anything... it's just nicked on the sides on two of the links. It seems more like these two drive links are slightly stretched-- too wide apart to fit into the drive slots in the bar.

Is this typically repairable? Is it worth it? (this is a 14" saw. Oregon saw blades are in the $14 - 16 range)

 

[old guy]

File the rough drive links so they fit, done it many times.

 

[huskihl]

If the bar got pinched, you can spread the rails back out with a screwdriver.
It was only a 3” tree. Next time, push it over in the proper direction

 

[glenintenn]

If the bar got pinched, you can spread the rails back out with a screwdriver.
It was only a 3” tree. Next time, push it over in the proper direction

bar was fine thankfully.

agreed. and for the rest of the day, I did just that... with yet another chain. I'll try OG's approach -- noting that the chain links cannot be damaged in the process of fixing the drive links. This video seems to give some details.

 

[Philbert]

Filing off any burrs on the drive links is one method. Can also use a Dremel tool, or hold them up to a bench grinder to do the same.

Other method is to flatten the burrs with a small hammer and a small bock of steel or anvil.

Philbert

 

[glenintenn]

Filing off any burrs on the drive links is one method. Can also use a Dremel tool, or hold them up to a bench grinder to do the same.

Other method is to flatten the burrs with a small hammer and a small bock of steel or anvil.

Philbert

Yes. Will have to see if burrs are the issue. As mentioned, it seems like the drive links are too long lengthwise to fit into the grooves in the bar, not side to side but it may have just seemed that way since I wasn't sure what to look for.

 

[Philbert]

Chains are seldom ruined (unless run against a sizeable rock). Usually repairable.

Welcome to A.S.!

Philbert

 

[s sidewall]

Been there and done that on some brush, threw the chain and damaged the drive links. A quick filing took care of the problem and I was back in business.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Matt93eg]

File the rough drive links so they fit, done it many times.

thats what I’ve always done. Gets you back going.

 

[Westboastfaller]

It's really common to mushroom the drivers on a new bar and chain with chain throws.
Put the chain on very loose so it hangs down an inch OR try two inches if it still jams. Tighten the nuts a bit and run it full throttle for 2-3 seconds and the centripetal force will suck the chain tight and remove the burs. The bar metal is a lot stronger than the chain.
If that's not the prob, and as you say, the bar rail is not tight they you will have a bent chain link but that usually won't jam like burs but rides on the top. You can seethe bend under throttle really easy. Look carefully and you will see which one needs straightening. I just use my Fallers axe on a solid stump.
Sometimes I don't even take the chain off on longer bars but just adjust it out.

You have to be accurate though.

Admittedly, "I ain't as good as I once was..but I'm as good once! as I ever was"

 

[rwoods]

I posted a separate post about my Ryobi 3714 bogging down and it turned out that a 6" tree which had pinched the bar ruined both the bar and the chain.

I had the same experience again with a much smaller tree today (with the new chain. argh). I misjudged the lean on a 15' tall oak which was about 3+" in diameter. Instead of falling away as the saw cut through it sat right on the saw. The saw threw the chain off and quit within a second or two.

After pulling the chain off, I realized that the chain would no longer sit down into the bar on 2 links of the chain (2 of the drive links will not sit down into the bar -- I guess these were the links which took the brunt of the tree binding them). I can force them down into the bar but then the chain will not rotate on the bar at all. Inspecting the chain, there's no obvious left/right bend or excessive play. The drive links look slightly chewed up but the teeth are not missing or anything... it's just nicked on the sides on two of the links. It seems more like these two drive links are slightly stretched-- too wide apart to fit into the drive slots in the bar.

Is this typically repairable? Is it worth it? (this is a 14" saw. Oregon saw blades are in the $14 - 16 range)

Likely they were chewed up by the splines on the clutch. Just file the sides flat until they will slide in the bar groove. The drive component will be shorter on each of these two links but will probably work fine. Examine all of your other drivers for similar chew marks. It is doubtful that you pinched the rails on a 3” tree.

Ron

 

[Huntaholic]

It's really common to mushroom the drivers on a new bar and chain with chain throws.
Put the chain on very loose so it hangs down and an inch OR try two inches is it still jams. Tighten the nuts a bit and run it full throttle for 2-3 seconds and the centripetal force will suck the chain tight and remove the burs. The bar metal is a lot stronger than the chain.
If not, and as you say, the bar rain is not tight they will have a bent chain link but that usually won't jam like burs but rides on the top. Look carefully and you will see which one needs straightening. I just use my Fallers axe on a solid stump.
Sometimes I don't even take the chain off on longer bars but just adjust it out.

You have to be accurate though.

Admittedly, "I ain't as good as I once was..but I'm as good once! as I ever was"

I can tell by this post that you actually use a saw to make a living and have enough time in the woods to figure out the shortcuts.