Had a question on the fuel lines on this series of saw so I thought I would post up how to fix these old war horse's up to keep em going, as this is all that most of them need.
First off, when you remove the recoil cover you see the 2 lines coming out of the tank. The one towards the front of the saw is the fuel line and the one towards the rear is the tank vent.
The fuel line I used is Oregon and is .117 ID, .211 OD.
Cut the end of the fuel line at a angle and slip it through the hole in the tank working through the filler neck. You can then grab the line with a pair of pliers and pull through what you need to reach the carb.
It is easier to me to remove the carb to get the line through to the inlet barb on the carb.
If your useing a new aftermarket filter, get one with a 1/8" barb on it to fit the new line. If your using the original filter you have to work the new line onto the filter, but it will fit.
The vent line has a duckbill valve on it, on the inside of the tank. Most often you will find it rattling around inside the tank as has fallen off the rotted old line.
Whats strange is I cannot find this Poulan duckbill valve and the plastic fitting it fits on in any of the IPLs for these saws, so I don't know if it can be ordered or not.
If your vent line is missing it's duckbill valve it's no big deal as you can replace it with the readily available Homelite #69451 duckbill valve and a piece of 1/8" od plastic tubeing.
The 1/8" plastic tubing is easy to get at most auto parts stores as its the same that's used for mechanical oil pressure gauges. Bad part is you only need about 3/8" of it.
You insert it in inside the tank end of the vent line, install the duckbill valve on the end of the tubeing and then pull the vent line up all the way to the top of the tank. Then route about 2" of the vent line up under the on/off switch as shown in the first picture.
If you don't want to bother with the duckbill valve you can use a #6 panhead metal screw in the end of the line, kinda like the vent screws used on some Stihl saw's.
I cut the end of the line at a slight angle when useing a screw and it works pretty good.
I know this maybe old hat for some, but I have had a few questions about this and just wanted to help them out, and I think the pictures help.
First off, when you remove the recoil cover you see the 2 lines coming out of the tank. The one towards the front of the saw is the fuel line and the one towards the rear is the tank vent.
The fuel line I used is Oregon and is .117 ID, .211 OD.
Cut the end of the fuel line at a angle and slip it through the hole in the tank working through the filler neck. You can then grab the line with a pair of pliers and pull through what you need to reach the carb.
It is easier to me to remove the carb to get the line through to the inlet barb on the carb.
If your useing a new aftermarket filter, get one with a 1/8" barb on it to fit the new line. If your using the original filter you have to work the new line onto the filter, but it will fit.
The vent line has a duckbill valve on it, on the inside of the tank. Most often you will find it rattling around inside the tank as has fallen off the rotted old line.
Whats strange is I cannot find this Poulan duckbill valve and the plastic fitting it fits on in any of the IPLs for these saws, so I don't know if it can be ordered or not.
If your vent line is missing it's duckbill valve it's no big deal as you can replace it with the readily available Homelite #69451 duckbill valve and a piece of 1/8" od plastic tubeing.
The 1/8" plastic tubing is easy to get at most auto parts stores as its the same that's used for mechanical oil pressure gauges. Bad part is you only need about 3/8" of it.
You insert it in inside the tank end of the vent line, install the duckbill valve on the end of the tubeing and then pull the vent line up all the way to the top of the tank. Then route about 2" of the vent line up under the on/off switch as shown in the first picture.
If you don't want to bother with the duckbill valve you can use a #6 panhead metal screw in the end of the line, kinda like the vent screws used on some Stihl saw's.
I cut the end of the line at a slight angle when useing a screw and it works pretty good.
I know this maybe old hat for some, but I have had a few questions about this and just wanted to help them out, and I think the pictures help.
It seems to me that alot of these saws would still be running and being used regularly if folks just new that a few relativly easy and cheap fixes that are all thats needed on these to get and keep them going. The fuel line, filter, and possibley a carb rebuild seem to be the First to look at doing to these great old Poulans. These saws were made over 20 years ago, and time will take its toll on plastic and rubber parts very quickly. Just the nature of the beast. And alot of these that I have seen sure look to have been used and abused for years with little care.
... somehow I found that response funny (I think because it showed my complete lack of knowledge about duckbill valves). Thanks for the laugh!
