Nik's Poulan Thread

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The only gripe I have about the 505 is that the clutch/bar mount cover was made of plastic and the west coast dog spike is causing the plastic to crack. Does anybody know if the Jonsered 2088 had a plastic or mag bar mount cover?
 
Woah. That's pretty wild.
Yeah, I really like it. When I first got it I wanted to get it looking a little more West Coast Timber looking but did not know if adding the v-stack and cone filter would hurt the power or be better. The Jonsered version (2088) is designated "Turbo" because it forces air into the air cleaner box, sort of charging the box like a turbocharger. I did not know if cutting the hole in the air box cover to add the stack would kill the Turbo effect or not. If you notice in the before and after pics, the filter cover is different. The before pic is the original Poulan Pro cover. I got another cover from a Jonsered 2088 and cut the hole in it just in case my v-stack setup killed the turbo effect I could return to original. Ends up there was no change in power going to the v-stack setup, in fact the v-stack might be a bit better from the sound of the saw running but it may just be me.
 
Here's the pics. Hit it with a little goo gone cleaned up OK. Looped a 404 chain on the bar and fits nice. Had a small 9/16 plug in it, i would think back then it would be one of the 13/16 plugs. Anyway, the little plug had spark. Trickled a few drops of mix in and tried starting it. Only problem, no on off switch. Figured it out, no switch. Its always on, and has a kill button. 3 pulls and it fired right up. Very quiet and smooth. Gonna hope beyond hope, and put some fuel in the tank and see if it will pull fuel through the lines.20190830_105035.jpg 20190830_105255.jpg 20190830_105406.jpg 20190830_110559.jpg 20190830_110559.jpg
 
Here's the pics. Hit it with a little goo gone cleaned up OK. Looped a 404 chain on the bar and fits nice. Had a small 9/16 plug in it, i would think back then it would be one of the 13/16 plugs. Anyway, the little plug had spark. Trickled a few drops of mix in and tried starting it. Only problem, no on off switch. Figured it out, no switch. Its always on, and has a kill button. 3 pulls and it fired right up. Very quiet and smooth. Gonna hope beyond hope, and put some fuel in the tank and see if it will pull fuel through the lines.View attachment 756317 View attachment 756321 View attachment 756323 View attachment 756325 View attachment 756325
That's a cool looking old saw. It looks like it weighs a ton though. I have a couple old gear drives, McCulloch and Homelite, and they weigh a ton. It amazes me how the Timber Fallers on the West Coast could run them all day long with guide bars up to 96" long running 1/2" pitch chain. Those guys deserve a medal.
 
I run 40:1 in everything except in my Stihl back pack blower and my Jonsered blower, 50:1 in those.

Steve Sidwell

Have you ever tuned a blower? I've read it's easy to lean them out too much since there's no 4-stroking or anything. My husky hand blower would bog so I tuned it a little to fix the issue. It's probably rich but I'd rather it be rich then lean.
 
Question for all, on the old gear drive saws what was the reason for the gears and were they there to gear up, slow motor make faster chain or the reverse high rev motor and slow down the chain speed
Gear reduction, makes the chain slower, give more torque. The early chain was quite a bit larger than modern 3/8" and took a lot of power to spin it. To get that power without putting a 300cc motor in the powerhead they used gear reduction. Also to run long bars in large wood you needed the torque, not just chain speed. Old 2 strokes didn't make the same HP/cc that new ones do.

I've got a McCulloch 35, and 55, as well as Homelite XP-1100, 17, 6-22, and Wiz and a David Bradley 360.

The 35 (54cc) has a bevel gear drive and I'd guess its somewhere around 3:1, the 55 (72cc) is 3:1. The XP-1100 (100cc) has the optional 2:1 in it, the 17 (71cc), 6-22 (82cc), and Wiz (71cc) all have a 3.57:1 ratio. With the exception of the XP-1100 and Mac 55, they all run 1/2" chain. The Mac runs 9/16" or 5/8" can't remember, and the XP-1100 is set up (now) for .404.

With a sharp 1/2" chipper chain they don't cut that slow, even though redline is 6k rpm and there is a 3:1 reduction. The mac 55 has a 30" bar on it and you can't stall it no matter how hard you push when its running.
 
Gear reduction, makes the chain slower, give more torque. The early chain was quite a bit larger than modern 3/8" and took a lot of power to spin it. To get that power without putting a 300cc motor in the powerhead they used gear reduction. Also to run long bars in large wood you needed the torque, not just chain speed. Old 2 strokes didn't make the same HP/cc that new ones do.

I've got a McCulloch 35, and 55, as well as Homelite XP-1100, 17, 6-22, and Wiz and a David Bradley 360.

The 35 (54cc) has a bevel gear drive and I'd guess its somewhere around 3:1, the 55 (72cc) is 3:1. The XP-1100 (100cc) has the optional 2:1 in it, the 17 (71cc), 6-22 (82cc), and Wiz (71cc) all have a 3.57:1 ratio. With the exception of the XP-1100 and Mac 55, they all run 1/2" chain. The Mac runs 9/16" or 5/8" can't remember, and the XP-1100 is set up (now) for .404.

With a sharp 1/2" chipper chain they don't cut that slow, even though redline is 6k rpm and there is a 3:1 reduction. The mac 55 has a 30" bar on it and you can't stall it no matter how hard you push when its running.
The Wiz was a beast. I say "was" cause I don't have mine anymore.
 
My understanding was to increase torque. I had a Homelite 7-29, 129 CC's. I was told you could hang a 200 pound guy on the helper handle and couldn't bog or slow it down. This Poulan is 82 CC's and has a max, govererned RPM of 6500. The chain will go slower, with increased torque.
 
Bought a used 5020 and want to use my .325 18" chains and bars. Does anyone know of a drum that will do the conversion of 3/8 to .325. From a post I created this morning:

"Bought a used pp5020 and want to use my .325 18" bars and chains. Researched about doing a 3/8 to .325 conversion and on another web site a person said he was able to convert from 3/8 to .325 using a Stihl drum and different wrist pin bearing. Im in the process of confirming that and am hoping someone else has done this conversion.

Given their is not much info about this, Im thinking it cant be done..."


https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...20-3-8-to-325-conversion.334913/#post-6985305

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