Rebuild a Newer Poulan/Craftsman

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mopar969

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
380
Reaction score
77
Location
Southwestern PA
So, I am repairing a new poulan and craftsman. I have a 90s model craftsman 40cc and a newer poulan 4218 42cc. I would like to put the 42cc engine into the craftsman. Both saws have a scored piston. I have read and heard from others o here that sometimes you can salvage the cylinder and just replace the piston. Attached is a pic of the 40cc cylinder. How do I know that the cylinder is good to reuses it has the line marks on it just like the piston? Also, I plane to clean the cylinder using emery cloth but was not sure how to determine if the 40cc cylinder or the 42cc cylinder is in better condition?
102_0137_800x600.JPG
 
Once you get the aluminum transfer off, you can see if any of the gouges are down below the plating. If so, more or less no good, if it cleans up, you can use it. Pistons with any scoring, I just wouldn't use. You should be able to find non gouged up poulans that just need new fuel lines and carb cleaning fairly easily, so you could get an engine there, maybe one that has a broken tank/handle or something, ie, cheap..
 
Well, there probably isn't any plating as those are usually bare bore / chromed piston. So it is unlikely you can salvage the cylinders.

Also, I don't think they actually made 40cc units so they are probably both 42cc. However, if the later saw is strato I don't think you'll be able to swap pistons.
 
What I was trying to do was put a new 42cc strato into the older craftsman. So, I will clean it up. How many deep scratches is too bad? Also, You do bring up a good point is there a difference between the 40cc cylinder and the 42cc cylinder. Thanks guys.
 
If the jugs are scored, throw them in a scrap pile. Go down to your local scrapyard and buy half a dozen more plastic poulans for $5 each. Put new fuel lines and carb kits in the best three, keep the other three for spare parts.
 
Yeah, I think once the cylinder has scratches it is done. I wanted to know if I could put a stihl or husqvrana cylinder and piston kit into the craftsman. I see alot of them on amazon but how do I know which one works on my craftsman? Will this work?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_p...38011,k:chainsaw+cylinder&sort=price-asc-rank

Amazon has a new kit for an ms180 for 30 bucks.

That for sure isn't going to work.

You need the serial number etc to identify the exact model poulan you have. Using that, you can search for parts.

I had forgotten about some are lined cylinders and some aren;t. Again, you need to really ID the saw in question before getting parts.
 
Alright, I am new to saws.But am relatively good about cars. So, putting a stihl engine into a poulan is like putting a hemi into a chevy.

So, I can't do this. Oh well, I figured I would ask. Thanks.

Besides sears and scrapyard where can I get cheap poulam/craftsman parts. It just kills me that stihl parts would be cheaper on amazon than poulan at sears!!
 
Alright, I am new to saws.But am relatively good about cars. So, putting a stihl engine into a poulan is like putting a hemi into a chevy.

So, I can't do this. Oh well, I figured I would ask. Thanks.

Besides sears and scrapyard where can I get cheap poulam/craftsman parts. It just kills me that stihl parts would be cheaper on amazon than poulan at sears!!

I would think most any husky dealer can get poulan parts.

To search on the net, find the exact saw ID, find the illustrated parts list, then get the poulan part number. using that part number, you'll find the various places.

Sears seems to actually be pretty good for parts.

Or just keep scrounging saws, should be not too hard to find ones without scored pistons and cylinders.
 
Lastly, to prevent wear on the chainsaws, I saw a thread that said to use a 35:1 mixture instead of 40:1 what the chainsaw calls for? Is this a good idea?

Also, I am going to check saws for wear more frequently. If I see that a saw is starting to create those lines but running with okay compression should I use take it apart and use the emery cloth to prevent it from getting worse? If I take the cylinder apart do I need to put some kind of sealant and or gasket where the cinder connects at the bottom? Thanks all, I think that I will keep lookin for parts.
 
Lastly, to prevent wear on the chainsaws, I saw a thread that said to use a 35:1 mixture instead of 40:1 what the chainsaw calls for? Is this a good idea?

Also, I am going to check saws for wear more frequently. If I see that a saw is starting to create those lines but running with okay compression should I use take it apart and use the emery cloth to prevent it from getting worse? If I take the cylinder apart do I need to put some kind of sealant and or gasket where the cinder connects at the bottom? Thanks all, I think that I will keep lookin for parts.

Well, if you start to get scoring on the piston and cylinder, that means something is wrong. You might have an air leak someplace at a seal, or maybe even in the fuel line in the tank, it might suck air. that needs fixing pronto then. It shouldn't happen with a good clean engine maintained well and tuned correctly.

Oil...much joked about here. You are cool to run 32:1 to 50:1, proly doesn't matter a whole lot as long as you use good fresh fuel and modern synthetic oil, good stuff, FD rated. I run 32:1, 4 oz to a gallon, easy to remember. Carb tune is more important, make sure it is rich enough to not run too lean. Opening up the muffler some also helps.

As to taking those engines apart and rebuilding them, Chris up above is much more knowledgeable on those clamshell engines.
 
Putting an engine from a different brand saw would be difficult and not worth the effort - the little Poulan engines can run just as well as any, and it already fits. A Stihl clamshell is not an upgrade - it would not be like putting a hemi into a chevy.

I think you could bolt a strato engine into the chassis of and older saw, but the entire intake/carb/filter setup is much taller, and they went to a taller cover assembly because of it. The problem is they were making other changes at the same time, like switching to an inboard clutch and a two-support brake handle, so I bet it would get complicated. There are a lot of parts around.
 
The craftsman serial number is 358.360130. I thought that I could maybe find a similar husky engine to install in the craftsman since they are similar. So, let me know what you think? Attached is a pic of the craftsman. Thanks guys. I was looking for newer parts to put in this thing but if the best price is the scrapyard I will do it but you never know what you get. That is why I wanted to try to put a husky, like 136, engine into the craftsman.

After all won't some huskys match up to the poulans and craftsmans?Is there an equivalent chart?
Chris I thought I I would just rig the crab connector and the air filter to the husky or new engine and use the old carb on it. My concern is what cylinders pistons could I use for this model. I was afraid that the arm on the piston might vary in length.

It just kills me that I can get a new husky kit cheaper than poulan. REALLY!
 

Attachments

  • craftsman40cc.jpg
    craftsman40cc.jpg
    38.7 KB
  • craftsman40cc-2.jpg
    craftsman40cc-2.jpg
    37.9 KB
There are two basic engine designs used in the plastic Poulans. One is the one you have, which is the same as the WildThing design. The other is used in the two P600 family saws, which are either the Poulan/Jonserd/Craftsman version with spring A/V and a frame type handle, or the Husqvarna 136-142 version with rubber A/V and a saddle-type tank/handle. The two engine are very different in size - here is a comparison of the two crankshafts (the P600 type is on top and much narrower):

IMG_5517-800.jpg
Poulan has clearly designed and made the newer Husqvarna 235/240, but there are some differences that would make a swap difficult, such as different A/V spring mounts and that the husky uses a lower clamshell cap that is molded into the plastic chassis.

You can swap engines around in the the various P600 family saws, which ranged from 36cc up to 49cc.
 
Well the 40 cc craftsman is one of the project saws the guy gave me. He also gave me the newer poulan 4218 av with the strato. Is this saw one of the P family saws. Also, If there is n equivalent husky for this saw how do I know which. Thanks again every one for all your advice really appreciate it!!!!!
 
Here is a write up I did some time ago - a little obsolete now as it does not include strato saws:

This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these, which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.

Poulan Wild Thing

Models include the 1950, 2050, 2055, 2150, 2175, 2375, PP210, PP262 in displacements from 33cc to 42cc. There is no anti-vibe and they can be identified by the primer bulb and the distinctive vertical duct bulge that runs from the top of the recoil cover into the top cover. They're not that light and fairly wide, but not too bad either.

The engine is a basic clamshell type with a slug piston and open single transfers. The connecting rod is a flat cross section (stamped?), but is fairly thick and I've not heard of this being a weakness. Flywheels have deep fins and they appear to move a lot of air.

Some have chain brakes, some don't. Clutches are outboard type with simple spur drive sprockets. All use 3/8 LoPro chain. Most use Walbro WT carbs and foam air filter that works OK if it's oiled. The plastic clutch cover/chain brake tend to warp a bit over time, especially with heat from the clutch area, as they are supported only at the bar studs. Bar studs are toggle head bolts and go though the plastic case (as opposed to being threaded into the plastic like an MS250).

Poulan 2250

Models include the 2250, 2550, 2555, PP220, PP230, PP260, in displacements from 36cc to 42cc. These are the same basic design as the Wild Thing family, but have A/V. The A/V uses a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft and allows a fair amount of movement, but it is smooth. There are considerable differences in the choke and throttle linkages, on/off switch, the carb, the top cover and the air filter mount. The top cover on these has two internal ridges that help keep the air filter seated, which the Wild Thing ones do not have. The choke is located on a terrible position and is really hard to access with gloves.

Chain brakes were optional. All use 3/8 LoPro chain.

Poulan 2500 (P600)

Models include the 2500, 2600, 2700, 2750, 2775, 3050, PP255, PP295, PP4620, PP310, PP315, as well as the Jonsered 2036 and 2040. Displacements run from 36cc to 49cc. There is no primer bulb, and the Jonsered versions have a different shaped recoil and top cover just for decoration. The engines in this family are different from those in the Wild Thing family saws. For one, the crank is about 1/2” narrower, and the flywheel has shallower fins, allowing the whole saw to be lighter and much narrower as well. They are about 10lbs.

The connecting rod has an I-beam cross section. They use a chromed bore. The exhaust port shape is very similar to the Wild Thing, but the intake is a bit different. These saws respond very well to opening up the muffler and make a surprising amount of power for their displacement. They use Walbro WT carbs and a flocked air filter.

There is an external handle frame with a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft.

Some of these are labeled “Turbo” and some are “Super Clean” - the Turbo versions use the small scoop by the flywheel fan to keep debris out of the airbox, while the Super Clean ones just have a pickup in the air stream between the cylinder and the carb. Only the Super Clean type parts are available any more, but they mostly interchange – there are some differences between early and later saws regarding the intake boot and impulse line.

Chain brakes are on most later saws. Most of these use 0.325” chain.

I have found three design weaknesses on these saws. First, the muffler heat shield on earlier Type I saws fatigue fails in the area around the muffler outlet. If you have a chain brake it can melt when the deflector falls off, and heat damage around the muffler is common. Second, the engine mount screws often back out. There is no locking hardware and they sit in a floating shoulder bushing that can spin so it would not work well anyway. Locktite will not work well with the thread type on the original screws. Many saws have been damaged by lost or broken screws. Last, the A/V mounts are easily damaged if the saw gets pinched and a gorilla tries to yank it out.

Husqvarna 36 (P600)

Models include the 36, 136, 141, 142 in displacements from 36cc to 40cc. These use the same engine family as the Poulan 2500 series, but have a different “saddle” type case that fits over the handle/tank and has rubber A/V mounts. The A/V system allows less movement than the spring types used on the Poulans. The size and weight is about the same as the Poulan 2500 family. The air filter looks similar to the 2500 but is slightly different, and all use the Turbo filter scoop. Some of these are 0.325” and some are 3/8 LoPro chain, and the 142s came with 0.043” Microlite. Clutches, drive sprockets and bars interchange on all these saws.

The 142e saws come with catalyst mufflers that are very restrictive. With a little bit of work the muffler and heat shield can be replaced with the parts from the 141, which really helps power.
 
Back
Top