Remington & Lombard auto-oiler check valve fix.

[67L36Driver]

Those of us that have a Lombard AP-42 type or Comango etc. are S.O.L. for new parts. But, I found a way to fix the auto-oiler check valve.

Tap the brass sleeve in the outlet (pipe thread end) with a #10-24 tap. You may notice it gets to a point where the sleeve starts turning. Grab hold of the tap with your smallest vicegrip and pull the sleeve out. You may or may not find the remains of the original duckbill in the inside end. Remove the sleeve from your tap (pliers suggested), and clean it all up with brake clean.



A Homelite duckbill fits perfectly in place of the original. Press the brass sleeve back in the elbow and it's fixed.

You may want to squeeze the end slighly with your bench vice to make shure it fits tight.

 

[67L36Driver]

The upshot of this:

The refurbished Lombard check valve can be used to replace the auto-oiler check on your Remington SL/PL-4A or PL-5A. The guts (duckbill) of which are also unobtainum.

Both the Lombard and the Remington 90 deg. elbows are 1/16" tube x 1/8" pipe.

Only downside on the Reminton is you have to remove the flywheel to get enuff swing on the fitting.



I wonder what the old Craftsman/Roper 3.7 has for a check valve...............................

 

[hotshot]

Sears 3.7PS Roper Oiler

The refurbished Lombard check valve can be used to replace the auto-oiler check on your Remington SL/PL-4A or PL-5A. The guts (duckbill) of which are also unobtainum.

Both the Lombard and the Remington 90 deg. elbows are 1/16" tube x 1/8" pipe.

Only downside on the Reminton is you have to remove the flywheel to get enuff swing on the fitting.



I wonder what the old Craftsman/Roper 3.7 has for a check valve...............................

Well wonder no more Carl...The early Roper / Craftsman / Sears 3.7PS uses a straight version of that Lombard elbow tube fitting, with a short stepped steel sleeve pressed in the end, not a straight copper tube that you showed for the Lombard. The check valve fitting looks like a simple flare to straight bulkhead tubing connector (the middle or center fitting on the Roper oil tank), but it has a rubber check valve built into it for pressurizing the oil tank from the engine crankcase. Lightly grab that steel sleeve stub end with a pair of needle nose vise grips, then gently twist & pull it out. The old valve did not look bad, but was real loose axially in the fitting and the tank would not hold pressure.

The green Poulan 5300-26119 duckbill valve replaces the old black duckbill perfectly, but I noticed that the steel sleeve still didn't
hold the duckbill firmly against the inside bottom of the fitting. Rather than round up a tiny AS568A-004 O-ring to use as a shim(the fitting inner bore is 0.212" ID, I clipped a 0.060" long section of yellow Tygon fuel tubing and seated it down inside the fitting, stuck the duckbill valve back in, and then pressed the litttle sleeve back in.

I finally have positive pressure holding, and the automatic oiler working in the little 61cc Blue & White Sears 3.7PS Roper now!

 

[67L36Driver]

That Roper valve sounds just like the one used on some Remingtons that screws into the wall between the crankcase and oil tank. I fixed one of those with the Poulan duckbill on my Remy SL-16A. Others would be the SL-10 and SL-11.

 

[hotshot]

That Roper valve sounds just like the one used on some Remingtons that screws into the wall between the crankcase and oil tank. I fixed one of those with the Poulan duckbill on my Remy SL-16A. Others would be the SL-10 and SL-11.

Yes that's exactly the same design. That green duckbill in your last post looks a lot beefier than most. What was the
source/part number or manufactuer of it?

Interesting to note that there is NO atmospheric air vent to the bar oil tank on the old Ropers. They depend on the
engine running to supply positive air.

You WILL draw a slight vacuum in the oil tank by operating the manual oiler button with the throttle trigger squeezed
WOT (to operate the shut off valve plunger that's linked to the throttle shaft). However, the duckbill will break the vacuum.

You WILL draw a DEEP vacuum if you try to oil the chain with the manual oiler button & do not pull the throttle to WOT,
as the shut off plunger is plumbed in series before the manual oiler. I discovered this when I put on a new chain and
wanted to pump some bar oil on the drivers before I started & ran the saw in wood. The manual button pumped a few strokes, then remained in the depressed position. I thought WTF, and unscrewed the manual oiler assembly. When I pulled the plunger out, I heard the vacuum break. Figured out right quick what was happening, that you need to open the throttle.

The manual oiler & the auto oiler (auto feed has the oil rate adjustment valve) circuits are piped in parallel, both fed from the shut off valve.

 

[67L36Driver]

That green one is the Poulan duckbill. They are a little more heavy duty compared to the Homelite version. I forget the part number but, do a 'Poulan duckbill' search on evilbay chainsaw parts and acsecorys and you will find plenty.

The shut off valve connected to the throttle trigger is to prevent the engine from emptying the oil tank at ldle/shutdown. When done, just loosen the oil cap and 'burp' it.

Poulan #530023166

 

[Eccentric]

That green one is the Poulan duckbill. They are a little more heavy duty compared to the Homelite version. I forget the part number but, do a 'Poulan duckbill' search on evilbay chainsaw parts and acsecorys and you will find plenty.

The shut off valve connected to the throttle trigger is to prevent the engine from emptying the oil tank at ldle/shutdown. When done, just loosen the oil cap and 'burp' it.

Poulan #530023166

Carl that Poulan # has been replaced by 530026119, which is both a Poulan and Husqvarna part # now. My local Husky dealers stock them. A bit pricey at $4 each, but they're still $2.25 or so online plus shipping...

 

[leeha]

Carl, Awsome repair on these oilers. I just aquired a Lombard Comango
with the oiler issue. Sucking bar oil in the crank case while running.
Great for mosquito control but not for your own lungs.
What is the part number of the Homelite duckbill your using for this repair.





Lee

 

[Eccentric]

Carl, Awsome repair on these oilers. I just aquired a Lombard Comango
with the oiler issue. Sucking bar oil in the crank case while running.
Great for mosquito control but not for your own lungs.
What is the part number of the Homelite duckbill your using for this repair.

Lee

Lee the only Homelite duckbill that is available is 69451. That's the red one in Car's pics. They are sometimes found in black as well. Same part though. New ones are available from Oregon and Stens outlets. I get mine 10 at a time on feebay for around $15 shipped.

 

[leeha]

Lee the only Homelite duckbill that is available is 69451. That's the red one in Car's pics. They are sometimes found in black as well. Same part though. New ones are available from Oregon and Stens outlets. I get mine 10 at a time on feebay for around $15 shipped.

Thanks Aaron, I'm on the hunt.




Lee

 

[67L36Driver]

Bump

I put the pictures back in.

 

[67L36Driver]

Loaction of the Lombard check is just below the muffler and forward of the oil fill plug.

 

[67L36Driver]

Bump to the top for the next generation of Lombard mechanix.

 

[67L36Driver]

Semiannual bump for the newbies.

 

[67L36Driver]

Circled the Lombard valve.

[emoji106]

 

[67L36Driver]

Several have requested information on Lombard and Remington auto-oilers recently.

 

[Okie]

Anyone ever seen one of these oil tank check valves that was used on the OLD Remington chain saws that had a little steel ball type check valve inside the fitting????????
I replaced one on my old Remington saw few years ago that was burning lots of bar oil and the exact replacement had a spring loaded ball bearing check valve inside. I had to take the saw completely apart because the valve had to be removed from inside the bottom of the oil tank. I think I still have the old bad valve in a z loc bag in my Remington small parts stuff, but not sure.

 

[67L36Driver]

I’ve only found one steel ball check so far. It is in a Wards 5.0” that went to Hawaii.

I might have one in another Wards but I haven’t looked yet. [emoji1696]

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I’ve only found one steel ball check so far. It is in a Wards 5.0” that went to Hawaii.

I might have one in another Wards but I haven’t looked yet. [emoji1696]

Hi Carl,
Is that check valve behind the flywheel? I started it up today and it is burning a lot of oil.
Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[Okie]

Remove the bar oil and see if the smoke clears up.
I've replaced some old Rem check valves and the smoke slowed but would still burn bar oil but not enough to upset the saws power and just kept the knats back.