Some Simple Tools to Teach Chainsaw Safety

[Philbert]

I am a visual learner, and like to demonstrate things when teaching. These are a few simple things that I use to help teach people how to use a chainsaw.



A door spring demonstrates spring poles and residual tension. PVC pipes are used to describe barber poles and different types of binds/pinches. The plywood 'guide bar' illustrates push-back, pull-in, and kick-back portions of the bar. The high-tech block of wood shows what a kerf is.

I use a short piece of 3/4-inch pitch harvester chain when describing saw chain, because it's larger and easier to see - everything is twice as big as on 3/8 inch chain. I can't afford the really nice, but expensive, chain models.


Bind/Pinch Points


Barber Chairs!

The PVC pipes are hinged together with a short strip of rubber or flexible tubing.

I also like to have a few different kinds of saws available, to show what is generally similar, and what can be different, between chainsaws.

Damaged saw chaps, bent bars, and heavily worn or seized saw parts also help to start conversations on what can go wrong, normal wear, maintenance, and abuse.

Philbert

 

[TreeTangler]

Nice. Teaching aids are great. Are you looking for anymore? Do you need anymore damaged Pistons, bars, chains, etc?

 

[Philbert]

Thanks!

Unfortunately, I do have a pile of chewed up chains, 'Z'-bent bars, pistons with aluminum transfer, etc. It's nice to know that a worn out sprocket still has some educational value.

I would be interested in seeing teaching aids others have used or made. I have seen some cut away cylinders, and nose sprockets encased in plexiglas here on A.S.; those might be down the road . . .

Philbert

 

[singletrack100]

As an instructor myself for wildland classes, training aids are great. Awesome thread man! Thanks for sharing; I like it!

Duane

 

[weedkilla]

I like a piece of Flooring joint strip. It can be placed in the face cut to help judge hinge width and falling angle, and it can be used by the instructor to tap the student feller on the shoulder when they are cutting and you want to get their attention.
Just want a bit long enough to hang out the sides of the face cut on both sides on the trees you are cutting, and long enough that the instructor is a good couple of steps away and can still reach the student.

 

[buzz sawyer]

If you haven't already, you might consider throwing in a few photos of injuries to make sure they understand the need for PPE.

 

[Philbert]

I don't use any gory photos. If I can use slides, I like ones like this:

We can discuss why the feet get cut so often; why the left leg gets cut more often than the right; etc. That leads to an understanding of PPE (protective foot wear, chaps, etc), including their limitations: 'PPE does not replace good work practices: Good work practices do not eliminate the need for PPE' (Philbert).

Good training can videos can be the subject of another thread, e.g.:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-chaps-testing-videos.229848/ (some links lost)

 

[Philbert]

Lifted from a Chris-PA thread:

Not a 'safety' thing, but a good way to explain how chainsaws work (and a good way to re-use an old clamshell engine).

Philbert

 

[Stihl 041S]

Great thread.
My brother is one of the Good Guy Safety guys.
If he makes something safer he tries to make it easier so folks take to it quicker.
If he is watching someone doing something unsafe he asks something like"would you want you granddaughter there?"
It gets the point across.
He says safety directors can be the worst thing in the world for safety.
As to gory pictures. He doesn't use them unless someone is stubborn. Had more than one guy lose lunch.
If students want them.
Go to OSHA website and look for the type of accident.
A cutaway has to be made for my shop. Lol

 

[Stihl 041S]

Lifted from a Chris-PA thread:
View attachment 455873
Not a 'safety' thing, but a good way to explain how chainsaws work (and a good way to re-use an old clamshell engine).

Philbert

Should I make 2?

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Lifted from a Chris-PA thread:
View attachment 455873
Not a 'safety' thing, but a good way to explain how chainsaws work (and a good way to re-use an old clamshell engine).

Philbert

I love that. I'm trying to learn about two strokes and am taking a community college class in small engine repair. The instructor would have had a much easier time on his first class if he had one.

My Stihl/Echo dealer had a display of something very similar and I tried to buy one, even calling Echo Canada. No dice.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

Should I make 2?

Absolutely!

Philbert

 

[Stihl 041S]

Absolutely!

Philbert

And glue the bearings in place so it moves easily.....

 

[zogger]

'PPE does not replace good work practices: Good work practices do not eliminate the need for PPE'

 

[Philbert]

Not a 'safety' thing, but a good way to explain how chainsaws work (and a good way to re-use an old clamshell engine).

I was going to wait until I found someone with a metal cutting bandsaw. But about 15 minutes with a vise, and a standard hacksaw, got me this. I will smooth out the flat side on some 80 and 120 grit aluminum oxide sheets, and ease the sharp corners with a Dremel.



I took it a little past halfway, so that the intake and exhaust ports still show, but the cylinder is 'trapped'. The spark plug hole on this cheap Homelite from the scrap pile is off center, so I can leave the plug in place. Maybe I will add a handle on the flywheel side to make it easy to turn. Thanks @Chris-PA for the idea!

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

I was going to wait until I found someone with a metal cutting bandsaw. But about 15 minutes with a vise, and a standard hacksaw, got me this. I will smooth out the flat side on some 80 and 120 grit aluminum oxide sheets, and ease the sharp corners with a Dremel.

View attachment 490160

I took it a little past halfway, so that the intake and exhaust ports still show, but the cylinder is 'trapped'. The spark plug hole on this cheap Homelite from the scrap pile is off center, so I can leave the plug in place. Maybe I will add a handle on the flywheel side to make it easy to turn. Thanks @Chris-PA for the idea!

Philbert

That thing won't run right without the piston ring!

 

[Chris-PA]

I took it a little past halfway, so that the intake and exhaust ports still show, but the cylinder is 'trapped'. The spark plug hole on this cheap Homelite from the scrap pile is off center, so I can leave the plug in place. Maybe I will add a handle on the flywheel side to make it easy to turn. Thanks @Chris-PA for the idea!

The problem here is that I've never played with one of those Homelite clamshells, and now I want to! Small combustion chamber, windowed piston, tight case volume. The rod looks a bit weak, but I bet I could make one of those go pretty good......

 

[Philbert]

That thing won't run right without the piston ring!

Yeah. The compression seems kind of low. And I think I might have an air leak somewhere . . .

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

'Lapped and Polished'

Finished cylinder. Flattened it on some 80 grit sandpaper taped to a glass sheet, followed by 120 grit. Then polished with a ScotchBrite de-burring wheel. Camfered the sharp edges along the cylinder, and epoxied a knob on the flywheel side to make it easier to turn. Running WD-40 at 100:0.





Philbert

 

[sweepleader]

Brilliant.