Stihl 041 Rebuild

[nnero]

I recently restored my dads 041 and purchased a parts saw mainly for the ignition, rear handle and clutch cover. I have decided to put the parts back together. I have rounded up enough parts to do so. It has poor compression and you can feel the piston drag in the cylinder. I dont know exactly what it will need until I get it apart.

Here are some random parts:


Here is a complete ignition I got for $25:


Here are two shots of the powerhead. Its filthy and I am in the process of cleaning it up:




I wont order air filter, new sprocket, bar/chain etc until I find out whats going on inside. I think this will get at least a 20" bar. My MS260 has a 16" and will be used 90% of the time.

This will be my first engine rebuild and should get me through the rest of winter lol. I think it will be fun. I will update periodically with pics, questions and info. Thanks.

 

[nnero]

Got it cleaned up a little better last night. It doesnt look quite as sad now lol. I will start taking the carb, exhaust, jug off next.





Has anyone used the Baileys brand bars (woodland pro timbermax)? I wish they were made in USA but the price looks good. Im not trying to spend a whole lot on this saw and dont need top of the line stuff.

 

[nnero]

Got it apart last night. The piston is scored pretty bad but the cylinder looks fine to me. No up and down play on the crankshaft either. I will be ordering a new piston, rings and gasket set. The plastic intake block was in good shape with no cracks. You can also see damage around the oiler adjustment knob. This saw was missing the plastic case guard behind the clutch/sprocket. I have a used one to put back.

 

[nnero]

Ordered a piston and rings, gasket set, air filter, sprocket and forester pro bar and chain (with replaceable tip). Also ordered a tank cover since one of the mounting tabs was busted off. And the plastic carb insulating plate and exhaust heat shield since they were both pretty beat. And a new chain tensioner. I gotta stop ordering crap lol. Just waiting for the mailman now.

 

[brucew44guns]

I bought a super 041 new in 1980. Took 8 cords a year to heat in Oregon for 20 years, then countless times saw used for utility and clearing. Now in Kansas and used over 10 years here for cutting Hedge. I can't imagine a better saw for me than this one, seldom has been broke down. Still cuts good, and looks great. Course--never beat the crap out of it.

 

[z71mike]

Good thread. Looking fwd to following the build. Thx for the writeup.

 

[nnero]

Not much to report. Put the handguard and caseguard on, put the ignintion and flywheel on (loosely), and removed the exhaust to be painted and cleaned exhaust port. Hope to have it all back together by the end of the week. Will keep updating as progress occurs. Pic #2 is blurry, sorry. Thanks for looking!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just a thought, make sure you get all the old aluminum smear off the cylinder wall before you put a new piston and rings in. It has to be very clean and smooth or the new piston will get torn up right away. I just completed a rebuild of a Stihl where a new piston was put in a previously lean scored cylinder and the new piston was all torn up, also seen this happen many-many times throughout the years.

 

[nnero]

Thanks, I take it that is called aluminum transfer? What is a good way to remove it/clean the cylinder? If I hone it will the stock size rings still work properly? This is my first time doing a project like this and I would prefer not to repeat it on the same saw lol.

 

[blsnelling]

It's looks to me as though you simply have a little carbon scoring on the piston. You could clean that up and put it back together with new rings. I doubt there's any transfer in the cylinder.

 

[nnero]

Thanks Brad. I already have a new piston on the way but I will still clean the old one up just because. I see people saying they use something like a scotch brite pad and "acid". Is this hydrochloric acid?

 

[blsnelling]

Do not use acid on the piston. The only reason to use acid is if the saw over heated and smeared aluminum from the piston onto the cylinder wall. I doubt you have that problem.

 

[pioneerguy600]

All cylinders will have some crap in them, its not always easily seen by the naked eye so I suggest you at least use some fine sandpaper,230 or finer to give it a once over. This will catch fine pieces stuck to the walls and if you feel the paper sort of stick/trip then look closely at that area. A final cleanup with Scotchbrite on a dowel run in a drill will polish up the walls and leave a good surface for the rings to seat into.

 

[nnero]

Thanks, I will give that a try. Appreciate all the help too. Just got confirmation that my parts were delivered but I cant do anything until Wednesday.

 

[nnero]

Got most of the parts in today. The piston is a Mako, the forester bar is definitely not a Stihl bar but should be fine. The bumper spikes are bigger (and thicker) than I thought. Should have lots of progress by the weekend.

 

[nnero]

Not much to update:



At least the box is cool...



I assume that ugly spot is from casting. Will it cause any issues or do I need to do something about it?

 

[nnero]

Got the new chain tensioner, bar studs and guide plate back on. Plus new drum sprocket and bearing. Nothing earth-shattering.

 

[nnero]

Painted the lettering on the clutch cover and the raised line on the tank

 

[nnero]

Well.. I broke a ring. I have heard of people only installing one ring anyways plus the stock piston only had one. I put the cylinder back on. We will see...

 

[redfin]

Good to see you are making some progress. I have two of these I hope to make one with.