My first new Stihl

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So I got it in the woods today, not
Just the log pile. It excels in limbing, its handy to carry, I never did switch to full comp chain, still have the skip tooth. In felling or bucking, it cuts fast but its absolutely intolerant of any pressure applied, which seems to me, as I have read elsewhere here, that it lacks in torque. Probably something to get used to, maybe give up on the 25” bar? the 562 was very much at home with a 24” bar and you could pry against the dogs. I have also read that it takes a dozen or so tanks and it really doesn’t wake up until then. Something with the M-tronic? Timed break in? Except for the switch/throttle/choke thing I really enjoy the ergonomics.
 
I dunno, he seemed to feel it kept chain speed up. 25” bar doesn’t seem excessive for that saw and I have never tried a skip tooth. I will say it cuts fast. I was cutting 20” oak, it was noticeably fast. I would have to swap to full comp to compare. I have a friend who swears by it. The sawdust seemed large compared full comp.
I find that saw works better with a 20 in bar. It's a hot rod, not a tractor. Try the 20 with full comp.
 
I am reading this thinking " why are you not taking this back to the dealer for repair?" This is not normal for a 400. At least 1/2 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Power? Unless it is dull, it will feed as fast as it can go like any sharp saw.
Get the oiler repaired and look at the whole system (vent, bar mount, bar, etc.)
Now if you are used to pushing on the big Huskies, no, it is not a big block saw, more of a small block chevy.
Nope not right for even a stock saw.
 
I am reading this thinking " why are you not taking this back to the dealer for repair?" This is not normal for a 400. At least 1/2 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Power? Unless it is dull, it will feed as fast as it can go like any sharp saw.
Get the oiler repaired and look at the whole system (vent, bar mount, bar, etc.)
Now if you are used to pushing on the big Huskies, no, it is not a big block saw, more of a small block chevy.
Nope not right for even a stock saw.
I will take it to the dealer, one reason I have never gotten a Stihl before is distance to the dealer, that’s on me, not him, it is oiling, I just don’t feel like it’s oiling enough. Our Jonsered/husqvarna dealer always said if you are going to grease your tip you do it every time, otherwise not at all, turn the oiler up. We’ve had virtually no tip failures. I have concerns that this one isn’t sufficient for that and it needs to be improved on. When I called he said to put the bar on with no chain and make sure it was squishing out the oil hole in the bar. If not bring it back, but I should get used to it oiling less. I suspect since it is oiling some I am not going to get anywhere with that.
 
I like my MS400. I changed to the large capacity clutch cover and dual spike. I am going to do the oiler upgrade as I too like a little more bar oil. It may be it’s just what I’m used to. It pulls non skip 25” just fine in white and red oak IMO. It will get a bit more lively alter using several tanks of fuel.
 
I like my MS400. I changed to the large capacity clutch cover and dual spike. I am going to do the oiler upgrade as I too like a little more bar oil. It may be it’s just what I’m used to. It pulls non skip 25” just fine in white and red oak IMO. It will get a bit more lively alter using several tanks of fuel.
Oiler upgrade sounds good! Can you just add the parts to that oiler, or do you have to buy a complete one? Will the 1128 series pump or parts work?
 
really. is that true in Oregon? I grew up in North Bend/Coos Bay, which was serious logging country when I was young in the 60's and 70's. can't imagine that going on there.

Haven't heard of any specifically here in Oregon, but I'd be surprised if it's not required in wetlands or watershed environments. I know bio oil is required in Scandinavia and Europe in a lot of places.

The 60's and 70's were an entirely different universe. You wouldn't recognize a thing here now.
 

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