Stihl USG

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The beloved Oregon 511 has been glued, cobbled, and is running with a bungee cord for a spring. It was time to upgrade the sharpener at the store. I finally talked the boss into the Stihl USG.
IMG_0130.jpg Ok, there it is, in all it's glory.
I have to spin my hat on backwards 'cause now I am going to sharpen left handed. I have worked on about 3 chains so far (for my own saws) and have some initial impressions.
The machine is incredibly accurate. No flop and wobble in this at all. The clamp is steady. I am starting to understand the slide the vice back and forth idea. Once I refine my style I think it will exceed what the Oregon was capable of.

I wanted to do a motor reverse switch on this, but got foiled by German engineering. They made the starter winding connections in the motor, not by the power switch. the motor appears to be crimped and isn't a servicable device in that I could access the connections for a double pole switch.... Ratts....

Do any of you have any suggestions that I can take into consideration with sharpening with this??
I want to do the BEST job I can, and literally have the customer grinning when I get done with their chains.

Thanks guys!!
 
So what was the retail on that USG? I know it’s a top o’ line grinder and well beyond my needs.
 
The next grinder I buy for myself, will be some sort of a square grinder....
I have the same oregon here at my shop (and with switch reversing, it works pretty well)

I am looking for some feedback from experience of fellas who have used the Stihl grinder, and what I might learn from...
Otherwise, I will eventually figure out what works, and what don't. The instruction manual is pretty good, but we all know there is more to it than following some guidelines....
 
I don't remember, it's over $600 tho...
Being a relatively new Stihl dealer... I have access to the store account.

Is it worth that many clams? Probably not. Is it nice, yes.

I have the position here to make a statement with sharpening chains CORRECTLY, and I have been working on generating a reputation that will get around, and back to the competition that I am doing BETTER than they are... The 511A has done remarkably well, and I think I will keep it as a spare machine, and use it setup for the rakers. I might even use it for the really small chains until I get comfortable with the USG
 
I learned how to sharpen on this machine. Once you get your cadence down you will fly through a normal chain. I would turn the wheel over every chain to keep it somewhat true. Now I have one of those harbor freight sharpeners at my house and it is sloppy!! Got spoiled working in a stihl shopQ
 
get the cbn wheels for the 12 mil arbor
L&M sharpening in the States has them
do, use the plus and minus 15 degree
settings.A shop just set it at 0 for L&R
and it did ok but to get the best ,learn
its characteristics ,and it will behave
beyond your expectations consistently
 
cfbb60e82556f7c95881895b20c65d9b.jpg

CBN wheels I really like the one from diamond wheel inc.
and plenty of light


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Local craigslist here in pa. Have an Oregon 520-120 for 300 bucks new in box but your a bit far away

You can get the Oregon 620 for $270 shipped online. Google Jolly Star Maverick mower supply. I ordered one, it's the real deal. Same as the Oregon but with a different sticker.
 
A sharp chain will always impress the customers!
But how little cutting edge you remove to get it there or how many sharpening’s they get from a chain will impress more
That’s why I like to inspect them when they drop them off and ask them what did you hit?


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If I wasn’t so obsessive about having a sharp chain, I would be like half of the people that I sharpen for. They will wait until they are nothing but nubs left and then ask for the friends and family discount. I try to covince them to get more then one chain and swap them out, but they tell me this one will cut good all day.
 
, but they tell me this one will cut good all day.
I have been working on a little education along the way, Sell them a file and a 2 minute instruction on how to use it.

Today, I hauled the 064 in and the recent hire kid was hanging around, I set it up, and had him go around that 28" chain for me. we did it as per instructed in settings, I barely touched it with a 13/64 just to get the burrs off it, set the rakers at .25 and hauled it out for a few test cuts.

The result was :yes: Damn..... this is cutting very nicely... Way better then the Oregon would have done with same efforts...
 
I have been working on a little education along the way, Sell them a file and a 2 minute instruction on how to use it.

I don’t own a dealership so no files to sell. I mostly sharpen for the locals based on the barter system. Some bring beer and conversation. Some trade firewood. All all comes out in the wash for me.
 
I don’t own a dealership so no files to sell. I mostly sharpen for the locals based on the barter system. Some bring beer and conversation. Some trade firewood. All all comes out in the wash for me.

I’m in the same boat no dealership here and helps because most of my customers think dealers take to much off the the cutters and don’t touch the rakers
Some say they get half as many sharpening’s from a dealer and they would rather sell a new chain
Buddies 4$ a loop or beer
Tree service 5$ loop


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I could change this, but I have been able to count the cutters and charge a quarter ($0.25) per cutter. A typical 72dl chain, full comp would be $9 which I think is fair, as long as I get it RIGHT !!
I take off what has to be done to get the chain sharp. I am NOT just grinding away chain cause it's easier. Some that were "rocked" pretty good I have to go around twice, and avoid heating the cutter. Keep the wheel clean!

If I can get another guy at the store up to where I trust not to destroy chains... Liam shows some promise...
 

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