Suggestions for DIY ATV log arch dimensions

[sevensandeights]

I'm in the process of building an ATV log arch similar to this one:

I'm using square 2.5" - 3/16" tubing because that's what I have available. Also using old Jeep CJ Dana 30 axle spindles with 15" tires so my hub height will be higher than the one in the picture above. I'd like to keep the width 54" or less (ATV is about 48" wide). The outside of the log arch tire to the inside of the vertical upright is 12.5". That leaves me 29" inside the arch - is that enough (54" - 12.5" -12.5" = 29")? Primary use for the arch is to skid logs to cut up for firewood. Most logs will be tops (10 - 20" in diameter) leftover from a recent logging of 40 acres of a very mature hardwood stand.

Also, what about total length and tongue length? Any advantages to using DOM tubing vs. solid round bar for the slider?

Thanks!

 

[Jere39]

Good luck with your project. I doubt you will really want to try pulling a log greater than 24-28" diameter with an ATV, so I don't see any issue with your working arch width. In my woods, I'd be more concerned with a tire track width wider than my ATV for risk of catching a tire on a stump, or rock when pulling around corners on my woods trails as I snake among the live trees since I am only harvesting dead trees, my woods is still pretty thick. Final comment, the sliding ramp lift in the picture is good for fast hitch and go, but I like an actual crank winch that allows me to lift, and in many cases pull the log out of a tangle, or up a slope, or off a crossed log and into my arch, rather than needing to be able to get the arch over the log for every hitch.

I made my arch on the small-ish size, and kept the tongue relatively short specifically so that I can make the drags through my woods. Obviously, there are good reasons for altering sizes to better suit circumstances. A relatively logged out 40 acres would probably work with a larger one.

Here is a quick video of mine in action:


Somewhere among the tens of thousands of posts on ArboristeSite is a build thread I could find if you are interested in my little tool

I always like to see people build these relatively simple tools and make personalizations and improvements while sticking to the constraints of what they have around their places.

 

[sundance]

Jere,
If you can find the build thread I'd like to see it!

 

[Sandhill Crane]

A couple things to consider when actually using an arch. You back it up a lot to position it over the log. The shorter it is, the harder it is to do that. Also, there may be obstacles that also make it difficult to get where you want when backing. Jere39's mention of a winch is good not only for lifting, but for pulling the butt end around in some cases to get hooked up. Additionally, I have found the handles on the Log-Rite arch invaluable to lift one wheel over the log when necessary, which is often. The heavier the arch the less able you are to do that. There is also the difference between dragging a log vs lifting it. I did not have the option of dragging because I did not own the property. I could lift a 13-14' log and move it with a small atv, keeping it dirt free.

Good luck with your build.

 

[Jere39]

Here is my build thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/log-arch-build.258349/ and more video of summer pulls just mostly for fun.

Here is another video with full hitch, and drag of an old oak log I was moving to a more convenient place to saw, split and stack.



And, if it worked, a .pdf of the quick CAD drawing that may or may not prove useful at all

 

[sevensandeights]

Thanks for all the replies. The area I'm gathering tops from is fairly open with a decent trail system in place so maneuvering isn't a major concern for me. I think I am going to reduce the width to 48" because I really won't be pulling many logs bigger than 24" in diameter.

I like the simplicity of just hooking up and going so the winch idea is a turn off for me. However, using the winch to pull a log into position to make it easier to get it under the arch would certainly be a benefit. I do have an electric winch on the front of my ATV and could use that.

So, longer is a little better but no too long to add unnecessary weight. What about height, is there an optimum height to keep as much of the log out of the dirt as possible?

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I don't think length will add much weight as it is in part carried by the ball and connector. The tires you use and the placement of the handholds for lifting will probably be more a factor.

Jere39's arch is closer in style to what your building than the Log-Rite. His input would trump mine. The arches are quite different and his experience may be completely different than mine. He may not lift his at all.

I was just trying to give you some things to think about when you picture yourself actually positioning and hooking up.

Mine is in one way a pain with the winch. The hand winch unspools on the drum. Then to keep from overlapping the wraps, I often have to unspool nearly the whole drum and rewind, almost every time, unless I keep tension on the cable when hooking up, which is difficult. It's a pain, but has kept the cable free of kinks and wire burrs. It is also the reason I don't lend it out.

For your situation of cutting tops, most limb size rounds you can lift are more quickly and efficiently handled with a trailer. Rounds larger than you care to lift is where log length and an arch shines.

 

[sevensandeights]

More good thoughts to consider - thanks. I certainly don't do this for a living. Just for fun actually and an excuse to build something and get my kids in the woods.

The tops I'm taking out are big and long. The logging company didn't touch anything past the first fork in the tree and most of the trees were 60+ feet tall. I can't believe what they left behind! I'm not a logger though so not sure what's normal.

Anyways, there is access to maneuver and logging paths but the area is on a hillside so I'd be worried about a loaded trailer pushing the ATV down the hill.

I also want to handle the log as little as possible. Hook up and go to the landing where my dump trailer will be. Cut into rounds and then load on the trailer. Seems like there would be an extra round of handling if I cut at the site and load on small trailer and then unload into another trailer at the site. Also just want to cut the top a one spot and pull it out of the pile rather than deal with picking up rounds out of the slash pile.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Sounds like a good plan. Have fun with the kids!

 

[sevensandeights]

I made a bunch of progress in the past few days. I took a bunch of pics in the beginning to show how I used the Jeep CJ Dana 30 spindles.

This is what I started with:



The spindles have a shoulder on the backside so I made spacer.







Welded the spacer to a piece of flat stock that will eventually be welded to the frame.





Completed spindle (extra long bolts are there just for alignment purposes).





Once I had the spacer/flat stock fitted correctly, I welded a little stub shaft onto the flat stock (not actually welded yet in this picture). This will serve as the offset to keep the tires away from the main frame.



As mentioned above, the parts I'm using came off a Jeep CJ Dana 30 axle so I needed to get rid of the locking hubs. Made a simple cover plate and now have a yet another spare set of 5 bolt locking hubs.



Here is the entire assembly.

 

[sevensandeights]

Pretty much done with the project. Raining here today so I'll test it tomorrow before painting.

There is a shoulder on the lug nut for the rotor. On jeep Cjs, lugs go through the rotor and first and then the hub goes over the lugs. Since I don't need the rotors, I drilled out some washers (30 of them!!!!) to take up the gap.







Here's a pic of the spindle mount welded to the frame, the spindle in place and the hub on the spindle.








Finished product!





Used a piece of leftover 1-1/4" bar stock to make the rail. Heated it up red hot and then stuck it in the draw bar of my Dad's NH farm tractor and made a super tight bend. Worked out almost perfect because the draw bar hole is 1-5/16"

 

[sevensandeights]

I tested it out today after repacking the wheel bearings.

The arch works! I skidded a few logs I found around the house. A small one and one about 15" in diameter and 12' long. The ATV had no issues pulling the logs but the chain loop never made it all the way up the to the flat resting spot.

I was wondering if I should lower the rear vertical segments to lessen the angle of the sliding rail. Any suggestions?

 

[Gypo Logger]

I like the idea of an ATV log arch. i think it should be simple, light and strong.
A hand operated boat winch could be used to raise the butt end far enough up off the ground and then rechoke with chain or cable choker before releasing cable on the boat winch.

 

[sundance]

I'd think about adding a brace at 45 degrees to support the right angle uprights. A decent sized log and some distance is going to stress that joint. Maybe 6-8 inches up and out to the front. Would add a lot of strength at that joint.

 

[Jere39]

You sure put a lot of work into that. Nice design. Looks quite sturdy. Thanks for all the pictures of your progress.

 

[sevensandeights]

You sure put a lot of work into that. Nice design. Looks quite sturdy. Thanks for all the pictures of your progress.

Thanks - that's why I'm trying to figure out if I should lower the overall height. It works but I would like it to work perfectly. Not sure if it really matters if the chain ring slides all the way to the top or not. I hope to take it to camp this weekend and try it out where I will be using it most to see how it performs.

 

[Jere39]

Well, I've never seen one with the slide ring in person, though there are plenty on youtube, it would be my guess that the heavier and harder you have to pull the log, the farther up the ramp it would climb. If your design is lifting the butt of the log high enough to make it clear roots, rocks, soil, and the high center of the trail you are dragging on that should be enough. Besides, it will almost certainly look like it is working better with a nice coat of paint on it. I'm anxious to see some pictures or video of it in action.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

the chain loop never made it all the way up the to the flat resting spot.

I was wondering if I should lower the rear vertical segments to lessen the angle of the sliding rail. Any suggestions?

As you said, try it out for a few days.
You could lessen the angle of the rod by extending it to the ball coupler, or raise the lower end in some other way.
Another thought, remove it to make the back bend vertical.
I would think the first option would be better, to keep the height, to allow for the chain/hook connection, and have as little of the log drag as possible.
Another thought would be to use a hand crank winch mounted on top to pull the ring up the rod to the traveling position. (That could be tested with a come-a-long.) You would need the quad in neutral so it can move forward.

Hope you find it works as is.
Nice build.

 

[cantoo]

Sundance, I agree with your thoughts on the bracing required but after a second look the rod will likely do the same thing. Being the bubblgum welder I am though I would also add the bracing just in case. Especially if it is going to be painted.

 

[sevensandeights]

Finally got a chance to really test the arch this weekend. Before testing, I decided that it was too tall so I lowered it 3". This reduced the angle of the sliding bar about 8 degrees and it's now 34 degrees.

The arch worked great so long as there wasn't much mud. At first, wet red oak and slimey clay based mud led to very disappointing results. A few days with no rain and things started to dry up. I could skid just about anything in the drier conditions.