the all aussie dribble thread!

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Must include something about chainsaws otherwise it'll get dumped in the Off Topic forum so i'll start.

MS660's suck puss. :msp_tongue:

Ported 7900's rule :msp_thumbup:



Actually, serious Q.

I have a loop of Oregon 72DP and I can't make it cut for sh!t compared to Carlton A1EP in some tough, dirty old sleepers. (mix of Ironbark and Box)

Same angles, (30*) same hook, same raker height (6-7*)
Its just slow and won't hold up to the dirty crap either.

All I can think of is too much drag from the stupid bumper link, what's the consensus ?



(I can just hear Matt now, "you're running 050 and you get up me !". It's my beater bar and chains sweety :p)
 
tdi-rick said:
Must include something about chainsaws otherwise it'll get dumped in the Off Topic forum so i'll start.

MS660's suck puss. :msp_tongue:

Ported 7900's rule :msp_thumbup:



Actually, serious Q.

I have a loop of Oregon 72DP and I can't make it cut for sh!t compared to Carlton A1EP in some tough, dirty old sleepers. (mix of Ironbark and Box)

Same angles, (30*) same hook, same raker height (6-7*)
Its just slow and won't hold up to the dirty crap either.

All I can think of is too much drag from the stupid bumper link, what's the consensus ?



(I can just hear Matt now, "you're running 050 and you get up me !". It's my beater bar and chains sweety :p)
Click to expand...

thats what you get running oregon ...(chuckle) sounds like their special softwood chain. only good for cutting balsa.
 
masculator said:
thats what you get running oregon ...(chuckle) sounds like their special softwood chain. only good for cutting balsa.
Click to expand...


I have two loops of Oregon out of something like twenty loops of chain, the OE Dolmar chain and this one I got at the same time.

I can't make either cut with any speed or longevity.
I've hardly used either in years, it's why they're still around :laugh:
 
tdi-rick said:
I have two loops of Oregon out of something like twenty loops of chain, the OE Dolmar chain and this one I got at the same time.

I can't make either cut with any speed or longevity.
I've hardly used either in years, it's why they're still around :laugh:
Click to expand...


It would be interesting to actually compare the tooth shape and profile to a carlton i.e. look at the radius of the chisel thickness of the top plate etc.etc.
 
Aaah, the second mug of Shiraz is kicking in. :D

I got smacked in the head by a rotary hammer drill late this arvo, top of the cheek and temple.

The frigging clutch was slipping as the 70mm core bit kept jamming going through a 415mm solid brick wall, then it bit.
**** it happened quickly.
Laid me out for about five minutes and it still stings.
 
masculator said:
It would be interesting to actually compare the tooth shape and profile to a carlton i.e. look at the radius of the chisel thickness of the top plate etc.etc.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I need to get a loupé and some jewellers goggles.

I want to get serious about filing (square) chain, so need to improve the up close. It aint what it used to be........
 
Here's one I got from the local shop today. I have purchased a couple of loops of Woodland Pro 20NK and it has a 35 degree top plate angle. I was asking the shop owner if they had a sharpener with a 35 degree angle line on it (they only carried an Oregon sharpener that had 30 degree lines).

So the owner, a fairly respected chainsaw racer, said that 35 degrees can't be used in Oz because of the hardwood, that 30 degrees is the maximum top plate angle. I thanked him for his advice and went on my way. (I had already been to Bunnings and bought a sharpener with 35 degree lines on it).

His reasoning was that the Woodland Pro was a North American chain made for NA softwood.

I figure I will do what I always do - 'what works, is just that, what works' - and see how the 35 degree top plate angle works. Perhaps it may dull faster than 30 degrees, but if it cuts faster initially - I'll have a 'race' chain I can use on my mates - or a faster chain for the odd softwood I get to cut (did I tell you I got to cut up a Maple tree in town, what a hoot!)
 
tdi-rick said:
Aaah, the second mug of Shiraz is kicking in. :D

I got smacked in the head by a rotary hammer drill late this arvo, top of the cheek and temple.

The frigging clutch was slipping as the 70mm core bit kept jamming going through a 415mm solid brick wall, then it bit.
**** it happened quickly.
Laid me out for about five minutes and it still stings.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it made you colour blind as well! wrong orange!


i copped a lump of 50 x 6 flat bar to the side of the head today too, on edge of all things so I sympathise with ya cause that is ringing as well.

Gotta ask the question about the dolmars are they really as good as you say? I have known a couple of guys who have had the 7900s and raved about them at first but after a while didn't seem to think that they were so hot. one now has a couple of the 81cc solos and reckons they are better.
 
Last edited:
Terry Syd said:
Here's one I got from the local shop today. I have purchased a couple of loops of Woodland Pro 20NK and it has a 35 degree top plate angle. I was asking the shop owner if they had a sharpener with a 35 degree angle line on it (they only carried an Oregon sharpener that had 30 degree lines).

So the owner, a fairly respected chainsaw racer, said that 35 degrees can't be used in Oz because of the hardwood, that 30 degrees is the maximum top plate angle. I thanked him for his advice and went on my way. (I had already been to Bunnings and bought a sharpener with 35 degree lines on it).

His reasoning was that the Woodland Pro was a North American chain made for NA softwood.

I figure I will do what I always do - 'what works, is just that, what works' - and see how the 35 degree top plate angle works. Perhaps it may dull faster than 30 degrees, but if it cuts faster initially - I'll have a 'race' chain I can use on my mates - or a faster chain for the odd softwood I get to cut (did I tell you I got to cut up a Maple tree in town, what a hoot!)
Click to expand...

Generally it is the other way round for softwood you run less top plate angle (20 to 25 degrees) due to the fact that softwood cuts easier and you can have a bit grabbier chain.
 
Terry Syd said:
Here's one I got from the local shop today. I have purchased a couple of loops of Woodland Pro 20NK and it has a 35 degree top plate angle. I was asking the shop owner if they had a sharpener with a 35 degree angle line on it (they only carried an Oregon sharpener that had 30 degree lines).

So the owner, a fairly respected chainsaw racer, said that 35 degrees can't be used in Oz because of the hardwood, that 30 degrees is the maximum top plate angle. I thanked him for his advice and went on my way. (I had already been to Bunnings and bought a sharpener with 35 degree lines on it).

His reasoning was that the Woodland Pro was a North American chain made for NA softwood.

I figure I will do what I always do - 'what works, is just that, what works' - and see how the 35 degree top plate angle works. Perhaps it may dull faster than 30 degrees, but if it cuts faster initially - I'll have a 'race' chain I can use on my mates - or a faster chain for the odd softwood I get to cut (did I tell you I got to cut up a Maple tree in town, what a hoot!)
Click to expand...

Terry, I filed my Carlton EP chain @ 35* for years, didn't have a problem.

I am using 30* now and it's working fine and pretty quick for semi-chisel, but i've become more aggressive in raker height too (without being too grabby)

Who's your store owner ? (you can PM or email me ;) )
 
Thanks guys, I figured he was just pushing **** in order to make a sale. Crikey, I thought the Stihl shop owner was full of it.

Rick, I'll PM you 'Gary's' last name tomorrow, I'm having a senior moment right now and can't remember his last name. I'll give you the shop name too.
 
masculator said:
Sounds like it made you colour blind as well! wrong orange!


i copped a lump of 50 x 6 flat bar to the side of the head today too, on edge of all things so I sympathise with ya cause that is ringing as well.

Gotta ask the question about the dolmars are they really as good as you say? I have known a couple of guys who have had the 7900s and raved about them at first but after a while didn't seem to think that they were so hot. one now has a couple of the 81cc solos and reckons they are better.
Click to expand...


Mate, never run a 681 but one of the local firewood fella's has one and raves about it.

They are very similar, Solo copied the Dolmar pretty closely, just stroked them 1mm and a number of bits are interchangeable. (things like the clutch are stamped with the Dolmar logo, that's how close they are, sorta like kissing cousins)

From what I've read, they are softer in the AV than the Dolmar, maybe a touch more grunt, but that may change saw to saw (just production variation) but there are quite a few reports of 681 crank breakages with heavy use, even though the Solo has slightly bigger diam. main bearings.

For what I do I'd be happy with either but the big advantage ATM with the Dolmak's is the HD air filter and it can't be adapted to the Solo AFAIK.
Again, i'd just buy a few spares (but last time I enquired the Solo ones are over A$60 each :msp_blink: ) and oil them, like i did with the Dolly before the HD filter became available.

Early 7900's sometimes ripped top AV springs but that was fixed with an overtravel limiter.

About the only 'weak' aspect of the 64/73/7900 is the oiler, which Matt reckons limits the saw to around 32" in our timber (I run up to a 30" bar) and the chain tensioner, which like the Husky 372 is in the clutch cover and not the main body like a Stihl or later Dolmars, but it isn't biggy, I've never heard of one failing, it just feels like it's harder to adjust the chain.

Serg/Husq2100 is getting a 681, so we'll have a pretty impartial Aussie take on one soonish.

{edit} the worst part with Makita saws in Oz is the backup from Makita Australia.
They provide frig all advertising and back up to their OPE dealers as far as I can make out, and will sell chainsaws to any Makita power tool retailer, which sure as hell doesn't imbue a genuine OPE dealer with confidence.
They could do so much better, but OPE seems to be the bastard, red headed child no one wants to acknowledge. Meanwhile Stihl show everyone how OPE should be done.
 
Last edited:
tdi-rick said:
Mate, never run a 681 but one of the local firewood fella's has one and raves about it.

They are very similar, Solo copied the Dolmar pretty closely, just stroked them 1mm and a number of bits are interchangeable. (things like the clutch are stamped with the Dolmar logo, that's how close they are, sorta like kissing cousins)

From what I've read, they are softer in the AV than the Dolmar, maybe a touch more grunt, but that may change saw to saw (just production variation) but there are quite a few reports of 681 crank breakages with heavy use, even though the Solo has slightly bigger diam. main bearings.

For what I do I'd be happy with either but the big advantage ATM with the Dolmak's is the HD air filter and it can't be adapted to the Solo AFAIK.
Again, i'd just buy a few spares (but last time I enquired the Solo ones are over A$60 each :msp_blink: ) and oil them, like i did with the Dolly before the HD filter became available.

Early 7900's sometimes ripped top AV springs but that was fixed with an overtravel limiter.

About the only 'weak' aspect of the 64/73/7900 is the oiler, which Matt reckons limits the saw to around 32" in our timber (I run up to a 30" bar) and the chain tensioner, which like the Husky 372 is in the clutch cover and not the main body like a Stihl or later Dolmars, but it isn't biggy, I've never heard of one failing, it just feels like it's harder to adjust the chain.

Serg/Husq2100 is getting a 681, so we'll have a pretty impartial Aussie take on one soonish.

{edit} the worst part with Makita saws in Oz is the backup from Makita Australia.
They provide frig all advertising and back up to their OPE dealers as far as I can make out, and will sell chainsaws to any Makita power tool retailer, which sure as hell doesn't imbue a genuine OPE dealer with confidence.
They could do so much better, but OPE seems to be the bastard, red headed child no one wants to acknowledge. Meanwhile Stihl show everyone how OPE should be done.
Click to expand...

I looked at buying a 7900 when I bought my 660 but the HD filter was like $260 locally which made it not much cheaper overall than the 660. (yes I know they are like $75 if you get them from the us but I just wanted to buy a saw ready to go.) I am quite interested in the solo 658 to replace an 034 but at 1200 here in oz it will have to wait. Would get one from the states but I don't have the contacts over there to be able to.
 

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