Winter wedges?

[Ryan'smilling]

Hey guys, I'm wondering if someone could recommend a plastic felling wedge for me. I do a lot of my cutting in the winter and I've been experiencing some trouble with wedges this year that I think are related to the cold.

The other day I was tapping over a decent sized ash and I kept having trouble with them bouncing back out of the kerf. Also, that same day I had two just snap in half. It was probably about 5F out, so things do tend to get brittle at those temps. One of the ones that broke was a Madsens branded one, and I'm not positive, but I think the other was called Wells.

Anyone got a brand or type that they prefer in the winter?

Thanks!

 

[northmanlogging]

K+H red heads

or a magnesium wedge but they are expensive and can be hard to source.

as for bouncing out, sprinkle a wad of dirt on em gets em maybe a little in the saw kerf as well, gets em all crusty and grippy, like sanding an icy road.

 

[northmanlogging]

Supposedly the Wells? branded ones come in winter and summer weights? but far as I've seen they are just cheap and break all the ****ing time.

 

[madhatte]

I like K&H a lot, they're good.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Thanks. K+H was the way I was leaning, but I wanted to seek more opinions. Looking back, even though the Wells were cheap, it's a stupid place to try to save money. I'd much prefer a wedge that works really nice even if it costs $5 more. Next question, are the double taper more likely to bounce out?

 

[northmanlogging]

Yes. But only because they are slick give em the dirt treatment and then they are fine if a little brittle

 

[homemade]

Saw chips sometimes works when dirt is too frozen. But I usually only need to do that if stacking wedges.

 

[Gologit]

Another vote for K and H wedges. I've never worked in cold weather like yours but I've used them in below freezing and they seemed to hold up okay. If you see any cracks or discolorations throw them away.
Below freezing we'd quit hitting the wedges as soon as they stalled out. A double kerf on the back cut will let you stack a little easier and not have to pound so much.
We used to take a Dremel with a burr bitt and rough up the surface of the wedges. It doesn't take much and they'll still be easy to drive.
You could also make your own wedges out of hardwood. They won't last like the K and H but it's a little easier on the wallet.

 

[wej52]

Another vote for K and H wedges. I've never worked in cold weather like yours but I've used them in below freezing and they seemed to hold up okay. If you see any cracks or discolorations throw them away.
Below freezing we'd quit hitting the wedges as soon as they stalled out. A double kerf on the back cut will let you stack a little easier and not have to pound so much.
We used to take a Dremel with a burr bitt and rough up the surface of the wedges. It doesn't take much and they'll still be easy to drive.
You could also make your own wedges out of hardwood. They won't last like the K and H but it's a little easier on the wallet.

If you make your own wedges out of hardwood, which way do you have the grain oriented for the most durability. Is hickory better than oak? W Jones

 

[2dogs]

Until last week it has been close to 80 degrees American here. I only worry about my wedges melting. It's on track to be 140 degrees this summer.

 

[lfnh]

If you make your own wedges out of hardwood, which way do you have the grain oriented for the most durability. Is hickory better than oak? W Jones

White oak, dog wood, single taper 1/8" long grain to 1 3/4" or so from 1 3/4" x 14" through and throughs select and better. Cut better green, dry them bundled.
hth

 

[Gologit]

If you make your own wedges out of hardwood, which way do you have the grain oriented for the most durability. Is hickory better than oak? W Jones

I don't know anything about hickory being used for wedges. It's not common where I live.
Oak seems to work well. Almond is good if you can get straight grain.

 

[bitzer]

Usually a wedge breaks in the cold when you don't hit it straight or you're trying to lift the world. I've been running "timber Savage" wedges. They're what the saw shop has these days. Alternately pound two wedges vs. one to take the pressure off one. Make sure you're cut up pretty tight before you start really pounding .sawdust in the kerf will keep wedges from popping out most times. Usually there's a good reason they're popping out. Not necessarily related to the cold. My cutting style doesn't change all that much in winter and we get plenty of below 0 days.

 

[CanopyGorilla]

Frozen trees will spit wedges, especially white fir. As for wedges I like hard heads. Not to spendy and you can beat the crap out of them. I've always found the white and red wedges to deform too easy when you really need to whack.

 

[bitzer]

I like hardheads for serious wedging near roads, power lines etc. They don't stack worth a dam unless it's on the bottom and a normal wedge on top. The extra weight helps them spit out on stacks. They also don't last. The plate breaks off eventually and by eventually I mean sooner then later. Then you still have a useable wedge just without the extra poundability.

 

[bitzer]

Find a ten inch wedge with slim taper to open then you can get a fatter one in without spitting. That's if you've got it cut up right of course.

 

[Philbert]

Related thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/wedges-and-cold-weather.223494/
Philbert

 

[Herman the German]

Find a ten inch wedge with slim taper to open then you can get a fatter one in without spitting. That's if you've got it cut up right of course.

Or use a little ky jelly and then you can get the fat one in 1st hehehe

 

[Herman the German]

Or vaseline then it won't split either