Whatcha using for guiding rope?

cnice_37 · Sep 9, 2010

This past weekend I had the pleasure of dropping a couple of dead trees on my property and had a few friends there to help. The trees were right next to the driveway, and while they "shouldn't" get the house I still roped them up for safety. (scored a free swingset that now resides where I dropped those trees, so I had an excuse to recruit help)

I guided the trees down with the normal rope I use (some 100' junk from Home Cheapo) anchored to my pickup with a come-along. Anyways, my buddy was too quick with the saw and while I bucked from trunk up and he from top down, he managed to grab the rope still attached to the tree. So now I have more like a 60' rope and a 40' rope.

So I'm in the market for a new one to do the same work. Just a guide to add tension to the fell.

So what are you using? Should I look into cable instead? I'm fairly frugal, so a cheaper alternative is always ideal. Might be able to score some rope from a fisherman, which I'd imagine is stronger than what I had.

Thanks,
Craig

Dalmatian90 · Sep 9, 2010

Not as cheap as free-from-a-fisherman, but a "bull rope" like this:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=34DB 150

is on my wishlist once I get a steady income again.

Right now when I'm using a collection of nylon tow straps, chains, and come-a-longs when needed.

mdotis · Sep 9, 2010

I use the cheap stuff

I just get some cheap stuff at one of the chain stores. I usually pull by hand or with a small ATV so if the ATV cannot break it, then good enough. However I would love to have a good one some day. Maybe next Christmas I can drop some hints about the one at baileys. See now I have BRAD!!!!! Will it ever end????

StihlyinEly · Sep 9, 2010

The Bailey's stuff in the link is excellent rope for the purpose.

However, I'd avoid the mindset that you're just using it as a guiding rope. You have it up there just in case. But what happens if "just in case" happens? Then you need a good strong rope (and a very solid anchor point) that can stand up to the tension and help you avoid disaster. And you won't know for sure in advance whether the next time is the crucial time.

So it's a great idea to get the good stuff if you can afford it, or to save up for it if necessary.

yooper · Sep 9, 2010

StihlyinEly said:
The Bailey's stuff in the link is excellent rope for the purpose.

However, I'd avoid the mindset that you're just using it as a guiding rope. You have it up there just in case. But what happens if "just in case" happens? Then you need a good strong rope (and a very solid anchor point) that can stand up to the tension and help you avoid disaster. And you won't know for sure in advance whether the next time is the crucial time.

So it's a great idea to get the good stuff if you can afford it, or to save up for it if necessary.

even the cheaper arbor-plex climbing line is alot stronger than the home depo crap. under 80 buck for 120 foot piece. more than strong enough to pull over most trees. cheap insurance.

Blowncrewcab · Sep 9, 2010

I bought 100' of 3500lb test braided rope on ebay for about $50.00. I have some 4000lb Synthetic winch cable on the front & Back of my rhino that I would trust if I was pulling it with my truck, the Rhino only weighs 1050 lbs and a bad situation could drag it along with it.

Also I bought 250' of 10,000 lb military 2' wide strap for under $50.00, It will just pull the tree over without using a saw

Check for the Bargains, they are out there.

cre73 · Sep 9, 2010

Seeing some of your locations a thought came to mind. Do any of you know someone in the paper industry. If so see if they can get you some "paper carrying rope" very stout stuff. I don't know the actual strength rating but it is STRONG. I take as much as is availble most of the time.

NeoTree · Sep 9, 2010

You should have atleast 1000lb working load IMHO. Thats 10,000lb breaking strength, I've seen a few break, and at $1 a foot for 5/8" bull rope thats cheap insurance.

SkyP · Sep 9, 2010

I've been taking down really big 100' Poplars, Oaks and Gums uphill of and leaning toward some buildings on my mountain land. I bought 250' of 5/16" wire rope very reasonably online, $108 delivered. I've had to near max out an 8000 lb winch on my truck to pull some of these trees back past vertical to ensure they don't fall the wrong way. The big chore is getting the line around the trunk 75' or more up to get enough leverage. So far a 45 yr old Ben Pearson bow I had as a kid with a bowfishing reel has let me shoot an arrow with line over a high branch then pull a rope then a cable up and over which I then loop around the trunk and tighten..
Long winded but the point is- I use wire rope for strength when it absolutely positively has to not fall a certain way.
It is odd how the mountain trees all seem to lean downhill and so far when uprooting and falling always go downhill...hope that holds because I want to keep the trees downhill and south for shade...

Dalmatian90 · Sep 9, 2010

, the Rhino only weighs 1050 lbs and a bad situation could drag it along with it.

Does remind me of a tree-on-wires call the fire company got one nice day.

Yep, tree on wires. Hmmm, there's a rope on it...tied on the bumper of a pickup that obviously got dragged across a paved driveway and then the lawn

shelbythedog · Sep 10, 2010

I have a collection of vehicle tow straps that do double duty as guide rope on trees and for pulling cars out of the snow in our beautiful MI winters. Using my K2500 4x4 Suburban they have paid for themselves over a few winters, its an easy $20 when you pull up on a Toyota/Honda/Kia in the ditch and the owner has been told by the wrecker dispatch that it will be a few hours before a driver can make it out to them. Three of them looped together makes about 90' which has been plenty of reach for any tree that has crossed my path. Here is a possible source for what I am talking about:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200377309_200377309

CountryBoy19 · Sep 10, 2010

SkyP said:
I've been taking down really big 100' Poplars, Oaks and Gums uphill of and leaning toward some buildings on my mountain land. I bought 250' of 5/16" wire rope very reasonably online, $108 delivered. I've had to near max out an 8000 lb winch on my truck to pull some of these trees back past vertical to ensure they don't fall the wrong way. The big chore is getting the line around the trunk 75' or more up to get enough leverage. So far a 45 yr old Ben Pearson bow I had as a kid with a bowfishing reel has let me shoot an arrow with line over a high branch then pull a rope then a cable up and over which I then loop around the trunk and tighten..
Long winded but the point is- I use wire rope for strength when it absolutely positively has to not fall a certain way.
It is odd how the mountain trees all seem to lean downhill and so far when uprooting and falling always go downhill...hope that holds because I want to keep the trees downhill and south for shade...

It's at least partially because of "creep" in the hillside. That is, the soil, over many years, slowly slides down the hill and the tree develops a lean because of it.

It's also likely because of available light. The tree can lean out over it's neighboring tree that is lower than it is and gather more light, so they lean out.

STLfirewood · Sep 10, 2010

I use a 150' piece of 7/8 bull rope from Baileys. It has a 27k pound breaking strength. Haven;t broke it yet. I have pulled some big trees that had a back lean to them. I always tie it up high in the tree. I also bought one of their 40k pound rings to tie at the bottom of tress to use as an anchor point. It works great.

Scott

Marc · Sep 10, 2010

CountryBoy19 said:
It's at least partially because of "creep" in the hillside. That is, the soil, over many years, slowly slides down the hill and the tree develops a lean because of it.

It's also likely because of available light. The tree can lean out over it's neighboring tree that is lower than it is and gather more light, so they lean out.

Lotta times on exposed hill sides the lean of trees is also influenced a lot by the prevailing winds.

Steve NW WI · Sep 10, 2010

I use a 7/8" x 75" bull rope (now shortened to about 65' by the same problem you had). Never had a tree not follow it, but this stuff has me drooling, a lot lighter and tougher, but of course WAY more expensive:

AMSTEEL BLUE LINK

1/2" diameter of this stuff will give me way more breaking strength than the 7/8 stuff I now have.

CountryBoy19 · Sep 10, 2010

Marc said:
Lotta times on exposed hill sides the lean of trees is also influenced a lot by the prevailing winds.

Very true, but an outward lean is very rarely caused by winds just because the wind can't fully act on a tree to cause the outward lean. Inward or side-to-side leans would be more likely caused by winds.

cnice_37 · Sep 10, 2010

Steve NW WI said:
I use a 7/8" x 75" bull rope (now shortened to about 65' by the same problem you had). Never had a tree not follow it, but this stuff has me drooling, a lot lighter and tougher, but of course WAY more expensive:

AMSTEEL BLUE LINK

1/2" diameter of this stuff will give me way more breaking strength than the 7/8 stuff I now have.

Whoa, and now we're back to the used fishing rope....

I have to pursue that angle[all puns intended], considering I'm a cheap S.O.B. :hmm3grin2orange:

Whatcha using for guiding rope?

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