I built the original 20 years ago and used it for the small stuff off of Willow. Then decided that the 'small stuff' in Willow wasn't worth the effort.
Working Locust, even the small stuff is worth working but I hate cutting it and then having to bend over to pick up those small pieces in the field. Decided to rebuild the saw buck today.
Loaded up:
Twisted, crooked, etc. doesn't matter just fill it up and they stay. I have the frames set for 16" (8" sticks out on right)
Cut:
The limbs _usually_ stay stable while being cut. The last cut on left is best done before the next to last one is made. Calls for a sharp chain and caution as I have had the top limb roll up and over the upright.
Nice to have the chunks stay right there (mostly) for easy picking up to be moved to the pile.
Detail:
1/4 X 2 1/2" lag bolts. Inside width is 14" designed for using 20" bar. The 2x6s are sacrificial as eventually they get eaten out due to letting the saw drop finishing the cuts. My old one was due for a replacement when I bagged it.
When finished just fold up and hang somewhere out of the way:
Comments:
Iron and chainsaws don't mix but you have 8" on each side. I only nicked one once when moving the saw from the last cut over to begin the next one and even then the chain was just barely moving.
The uprights could be another 6" or foot longer.
I'm missing 2 frames on the left - must have used them for something else.
I may redo it by using 1/4 or 3/8" x 1 1/2 flat bar stock on the bottom for the links and wood uprights. That gives a problem on how to hold the limbs up to give the saw room below them before hitting the 2x6 - haven't figured that out yet and still make it foldable.
Lot nicer and quicker working 6 to 8" and under stuff this way vice doing it in the field.
Harry K
Working Locust, even the small stuff is worth working but I hate cutting it and then having to bend over to pick up those small pieces in the field. Decided to rebuild the saw buck today.
Loaded up:
Twisted, crooked, etc. doesn't matter just fill it up and they stay. I have the frames set for 16" (8" sticks out on right)
Cut:
The limbs _usually_ stay stable while being cut. The last cut on left is best done before the next to last one is made. Calls for a sharp chain and caution as I have had the top limb roll up and over the upright.
Nice to have the chunks stay right there (mostly) for easy picking up to be moved to the pile.
Detail:
1/4 X 2 1/2" lag bolts. Inside width is 14" designed for using 20" bar. The 2x6s are sacrificial as eventually they get eaten out due to letting the saw drop finishing the cuts. My old one was due for a replacement when I bagged it.
When finished just fold up and hang somewhere out of the way:
Comments:
Iron and chainsaws don't mix but you have 8" on each side. I only nicked one once when moving the saw from the last cut over to begin the next one and even then the chain was just barely moving.
The uprights could be another 6" or foot longer.
I'm missing 2 frames on the left - must have used them for something else.
I may redo it by using 1/4 or 3/8" x 1 1/2 flat bar stock on the bottom for the links and wood uprights. That gives a problem on how to hold the limbs up to give the saw room below them before hitting the 2x6 - haven't figured that out yet and still make it foldable.
Lot nicer and quicker working 6 to 8" and under stuff this way vice doing it in the field.
Harry K
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