Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
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Yep.
while we wait on that,
I drilled my clutch cover and I might need to go a bit deeper. I thought it prudent to hold off until I get further along on my build, but I have the cut made and alignment so it simply depth I need to adjust. I put epoxy appliance paint on the cut. anyone have ideas on improvement?
I drilled my clutch cover and I might need to go a bit deeper. I thought it prudent to hold off until I get further along on my build, but I have the cut made and alignment so it simply depth I need to adjust. I put epoxy appliance paint on the cut. anyone have ideas on improvement?
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davhul knows exactly what he's talking about. A light chamfer is not enough it actually has to be a counterbore. I was in a hurry and butchered mine, it works just fine but I'd never give it to anyone 'cause it's ugly as 4 foot up a bull's fundament. I didn't bother to take the time to set it up on the drill press and instead did it by hand with a cordless drill. The magnesium is soft enough that it's simple, but I want a bit more precision next time. I ordered a replacement cover for $10.
I wouldn't recommend using a handheld drill, you get too much chatter from the cutting flute because you can't provide the consistent pressure that a drill press can. Even with a drill press I tend to get chatter with countersinks that I don't get with drill bits.
Do you think you rpm on your press need to be higher to use the counter bit?Mines set pretty fast. I'm not near it to check it. Also my counter sink is pretty worn so it doesn't bite very good. It's almost time for a new one.
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The metal is soft so a slow speed is what i used.
That is very valuable info we are going to have some first class saws. I did it lightly and used my press. i thought it would be smart to finish it when i was farther along and had the bar in hand. So it really worked out for me, waiting and asking. But i could complete it now with those measurements.
I want to clear something up. when the crank comes up solid saws guys chime in and say to use heat. I am on the wrong side of experience so I have to be careful in my speech. When an experience person tell us something I am grateful...period.
I don't know if all the advice considers the circumstance of the kit, so we must stop and think to avoid mistakes and I would just like to point out that difference especially to first timers. In this specific example, the oil seals are already installed and sit right next to the bearings that you need to heat up and there is no way to shield the seals from contact with possible excess heat unless you remove the seals, which is easy enough to do if you want to use heat. I bet heat is the best way short of a puller. We don't know what they used as far as seal materials. You install bearing in a case stihl mentions using heat and use of heat to install the crank but then they tell you to put your seals in. There is an order to this stuff and we are learning it.
I think the unknown is what could bite you later. if you google lip seals which is what this basically is, reference can be found that tells you " excessive temperature is the leading cause of seal failures. Elevated temperatures can also lead to the elastomer cracking or blistering. Nitrile seal life decreases by a factor of two for every increase in temperature of 57 degrees F. " So lets say they look fine when your done but they only last half as long. does that make them Chinese junk? You wont remember applying heat and that's likely what would happen. stihls not doing this for us, we are doing this for our self. maybe you could bath the seal in stihl ultra and not have a problem.
thankfully i will not face that again.
I researched seals removers and found one i liked and could make, have not used it yet, but it was not hard to make. I have removed one seal and feel like this will do it, and its cheap. I used a free harbor freight screw driver that i recently discovered under my deck.
That is very valuable info we are going to have some first class saws. I did it lightly and used my press. i thought it would be smart to finish it when i was farther along and had the bar in hand. So it really worked out for me, waiting and asking. But i could complete it now with those measurements.
I want to clear something up. when the crank comes up solid saws guys chime in and say to use heat. I am on the wrong side of experience so I have to be careful in my speech. When an experience person tell us something I am grateful...period.
I don't know if all the advice considers the circumstance of the kit, so we must stop and think to avoid mistakes and I would just like to point out that difference especially to first timers. In this specific example, the oil seals are already installed and sit right next to the bearings that you need to heat up and there is no way to shield the seals from contact with possible excess heat unless you remove the seals, which is easy enough to do if you want to use heat. I bet heat is the best way short of a puller. We don't know what they used as far as seal materials. You install bearing in a case stihl mentions using heat and use of heat to install the crank but then they tell you to put your seals in. There is an order to this stuff and we are learning it.
I think the unknown is what could bite you later. if you google lip seals which is what this basically is, reference can be found that tells you " excessive temperature is the leading cause of seal failures. Elevated temperatures can also lead to the elastomer cracking or blistering. Nitrile seal life decreases by a factor of two for every increase in temperature of 57 degrees F. " So lets say they look fine when your done but they only last half as long. does that make them Chinese junk? You wont remember applying heat and that's likely what would happen. stihls not doing this for us, we are doing this for our self. maybe you could bath the seal in stihl ultra and not have a problem.
thankfully i will not face that again.
I researched seals removers and found one i liked and could make, have not used it yet, but it was not hard to make. I have removed one seal and feel like this will do it, and its cheap. I used a free harbor freight screw driver that i recently discovered under my deck.
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I haven't tried installing the crank after the seals have been installed like in this kit. I plain on trying it with the seals in first just to see but I was planing on using oem seals anyway. I figure when the seal gets to the step on the crank I would run something around the seal lip to help it go over the step on the crank while pulling the case together. If it works or not I'm replacing them anyway. As far as heat. I would use a heat gun and an infrared thermometer and I think the seals would be OK as long as you keep it under 220°. That should be plenty. And not damage the seal.
That seal puller will work just be careful when you pry it out not to leverage the screwdriver against the case opening. It will dent.
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That seal puller will work just be careful when you pry it out not to leverage the screwdriver against the case opening. It will dent.
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The seals should never be installed before the crank and case halves are assembled. If they are, remove them. IMHO, this is a flaw in the kit.. The reason being is that a new seal puts enough drag on the crank that you will not know if you have the crank properly centered and the side load on the bearings released.
As a note, you can purchase the entire gasket and seal kit from Stihl for about $30. So don't buy just seals. It's likely cheaper to order the entire "set of gaskets".
ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
Just curious, has anyone weighed the PHO to compare it to that of the actual Stihl PHO weight. Based on the manuals for the 066 and the 660, the 066 weights 16.1 lbs and the 660 weights 16.5. Those weights are without the B&C.
Excellent point.
I have an air leak in mine. It won't hold vac or pressure. I suspect it's the clutch side seal so I'll complete a tear down and test along the way to isolate the source of the air leak. I did initial testing with the saw mostly intact, a block off plate over the exhaust port, a decomp plug in place of the decomp valve and a Stihl test adapter in place of the carb.
its 44 in my area
