eye.heart.trees
arborjunky
TL;DR -- thanks for any contributions, even if I already have them, I expect this topic will serve many well!!
~~~~~~
My current, chainsaw-specific gear:
Generic tachometer, $5 maybe 10, has *seemed* great lol
Spline-drivers for everything but double-pacman (or double-d...tthe less-common of the double's...my Tanaka takes those although a single pacman does thte trick it's just obvi not good for those jet screws or the driver (small worry next to that expensive carb's H&L screws!!)
I've got a generic 5/32" file&hand attachment, I use the guide (aiming between 30 adn 35deg - is it true that Stihl chains that're more aggressive can, at least in-part, be due to them being .35deg cut/ground instttetad of Oregon's standard 30deg grind? I'm starting to think I'll move to 35deg as-default, I keep multiple chains for all my climbing saws so I can always grab a fresh one it's so important to me.....also have multilpe raker/depth-gauge files, I file mine pretty aggressive so aggressively in fact that, since I've got 3 more 12" chains than 12" bars, that I wanna just nip the rakers w/ the carbide wheel on my 4" angle-grinder......I don't have a death wish lol but part of me wants to feel it 'bite' or pull just a lil, it's like 8 or 9lbs w/ bar&fluids and firm so the worries of kickback, IMO, are pretty concentrated on those who do dumb things such as being in-line w/ their bar (especially in certain moves/cuts)
SO---- Was about to order some cheap-o ~$10-20 pressure gauge so I could say more than "It's got great compression" (btw is it good-practice on all saws to pull-out the start-cord a ~foot as you're stopping the unit? And another dumb Q but: compression is only something I'd learn & benchmark/monitor, it's not something I can improve (inn 99% cases) but does let me see exactly what each mod is doing!)
- after compression gauge (or 'comp+vac gauge'?), was thinking a laser-thermometer(?)
- 2nd tachometer from different, cheap brand to ensure it matches-up with the other one I've already got
- spline-drive 'bits' for a regular quick-release impact drill (not using that there, just need that type of bit to fit a cool unit I've got that's nearly surpassing the scrench in importance for me as its cap fills-up with all these extra bits
)
-goops/sludges/etc? Have Loctite tthread-lock (blue, my understanding is there is no red threadlock :/ ) Permatex Red and Copper (use these for exhaust//muffler intterfacing and even as a 'thread lock' on the muffler's 2 retention-bolts!), also using copper around my ignition-module which has been rebuilt (can't believe it works ) and is 'secured' to the block with copper Permatex as a bed, JBweld as 'thread lock' for the 2 ignition-module-bolts (their replacaments, which were going into stripped holes, thing was a mess 2 flywheel fins had come off and smashed-around destroying quite a lot---at least it was aiming the air towards the intake properly (am considering filtering that channel on my saws tho, have been dogging-out the casing and sealing-up with foam so there's SOOOOO much more air-availability and it's cleaner too in fact it was doing this on my saws that seemed to 'wake-up' a good # of muff-modded units.
Thanks a ton for any ideas, oh powertool accessories are areas I may not be as well-stocked, I think I've got an extensive wood-carving accessory kit (I do bonsai, my preference is large specimen and tend to be gnarly / lots-of-deadwood specimen ) for the angle-grinder, long-shaf die-grnder (25rpm) with 2 sets of varied-shape carbide bits and 1 set of smaller/precision bits 'diamond grit', know I need to figure-out those lil like 1" sandpaperr drums, they seem they'd be so good!! But I've also got larger/smaller grinders / all tttypes of drills / full 18v kit, my goals are to be able to tackle larger&more complex saw jobs at home, have been thinking I should add "compressor pancake" to list but don't know enough about them to know if I'm making a bad buy, just the $$ wasted using carb-cleaner aerosol to clean-up before tightening a chain or putting a unit away, certainly before openning up a unit!!
~~~~~~
My current, chainsaw-specific gear:
Generic tachometer, $5 maybe 10, has *seemed* great lol
Spline-drivers for everything but double-pacman (or double-d...tthe less-common of the double's...my Tanaka takes those although a single pacman does thte trick it's just obvi not good for those jet screws or the driver (small worry next to that expensive carb's H&L screws!!)
I've got a generic 5/32" file&hand attachment, I use the guide (aiming between 30 adn 35deg - is it true that Stihl chains that're more aggressive can, at least in-part, be due to them being .35deg cut/ground instttetad of Oregon's standard 30deg grind? I'm starting to think I'll move to 35deg as-default, I keep multiple chains for all my climbing saws so I can always grab a fresh one it's so important to me.....also have multilpe raker/depth-gauge files, I file mine pretty aggressive so aggressively in fact that, since I've got 3 more 12" chains than 12" bars, that I wanna just nip the rakers w/ the carbide wheel on my 4" angle-grinder......I don't have a death wish lol but part of me wants to feel it 'bite' or pull just a lil, it's like 8 or 9lbs w/ bar&fluids and firm so the worries of kickback, IMO, are pretty concentrated on those who do dumb things such as being in-line w/ their bar (especially in certain moves/cuts)
SO---- Was about to order some cheap-o ~$10-20 pressure gauge so I could say more than "It's got great compression" (btw is it good-practice on all saws to pull-out the start-cord a ~foot as you're stopping the unit? And another dumb Q but: compression is only something I'd learn & benchmark/monitor, it's not something I can improve (inn 99% cases) but does let me see exactly what each mod is doing!)
- after compression gauge (or 'comp+vac gauge'?), was thinking a laser-thermometer(?)
- 2nd tachometer from different, cheap brand to ensure it matches-up with the other one I've already got
- spline-drive 'bits' for a regular quick-release impact drill (not using that there, just need that type of bit to fit a cool unit I've got that's nearly surpassing the scrench in importance for me as its cap fills-up with all these extra bits
)-goops/sludges/etc? Have Loctite tthread-lock (blue, my understanding is there is no red threadlock :/ ) Permatex Red and Copper (use these for exhaust//muffler intterfacing and even as a 'thread lock' on the muffler's 2 retention-bolts!), also using copper around my ignition-module which has been rebuilt (can't believe it works
) and is 'secured' to the block with copper Permatex as a bed, JBweld as 'thread lock' for the 2 ignition-module-bolts (their replacaments, which were going into stripped holes, thing was a mess 2 flywheel fins had come off and smashed-around destroying quite a lot---at least it was aiming the air towards the intake properly (am considering filtering that channel on my saws tho, have been dogging-out the casing and sealing-up with foam so there's SOOOOO much more air-availability and it's cleaner too in fact it was doing this on my saws that seemed to 'wake-up' a good # of muff-modded units.Thanks a ton for any ideas, oh powertool accessories are areas I may not be as well-stocked, I think I've got an extensive wood-carving accessory kit (I do bonsai, my preference is large specimen and tend to be gnarly / lots-of-deadwood specimen
) for the angle-grinder, long-shaf die-grnder (25rpm) with 2 sets of varied-shape carbide bits and 1 set of smaller/precision bits 'diamond grit', know I need to figure-out those lil like 1" sandpaperr drums, they seem they'd be so good!! But I've also got larger/smaller grinders / all tttypes of drills / full 18v kit, my goals are to be able to tackle larger&more complex saw jobs at home, have been thinking I should add "compressor pancake" to list but don't know enough about them to know if I'm making a bad buy, just the $$ wasted using carb-cleaner aerosol to clean-up before tightening a chain or putting a unit away, certainly before openning up a unit!!
