If you'll notice the threaded area next to the nut on your flywheel that's where the puller screws into. I think you can buy the pullers on ebay for not too much money. Better to use the right puller than to damage the flywheel.
Need to rebuild 038 magnum
- Thread starter steveotm357
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Farmertech is slow on everything it seems, especially now..
steveotm357
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Thanks for the reply guys...if i can find a brass hammer ill try it but is this the correct puller??? https://www.ebay.com/itm/352292435029
It's the right kind but you'd have to measure the hole it goes into and ask the vendor to what size his puller is. There are more than one of these pullers for Stihl flywheels, one a bit bigger across than the other. I looked below the picture and saw another one with two sides that costs 17.95 that would probably work. It's the one from Pro line. Just measure the hole and see if it's 22 or 26mm..
I just give the clutch side of the crankshaft a few sharp whacks and usually the flywheel will (sometimes violently) fall off of the crank.
That one will likely work, but I'd go for this one first - handles larger saws as well like the 066.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284284781745?hash=item4230b184b1:g:RiwAAOSwoGFgk6Uq
steveotm357
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on the way
steveotm357
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in going thru the manual steps while waiting i am wondering what other tools i am going to need and is there a rebuild kit with all the gaskets and new rubber parts?
You can find gasket sets that include new crank seals but you’ll have to source AV rubber separately.
this is the stihl puller
OEM pistons still available, but ~ twice cost of meteor. Get a stihl gasket set, comes with seals.
Would be good to do leakdown test before pulling apart
steveotm357
ArboristSite Lurker
leakdown test sounds like a good idea...just did some research and found neoprene can be used behind the muffler and between the carb and air filter...a spark plug adapter for the access....i have to plug a hose but forget the name of it....found this adapter kit on fleabay...https://www.ebay.com/itm/185070674608?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001
and the pump here....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3341383334...1291&msclkid=ef95de8dc2e31e7661e3bfe03e1c85e6think these would work for possibly a one time use???
another question....this saw has always been a hard start when cold...things to look for??????
I use that pump. Has worked very well and can't see a need to purchase anything more expensive.
Re: the adapter kit on ebay
When I was first getting into diagnostics and repair, I got by with pieces of inner tube for blocking carb and exhaust ports and a modified spark plug (bust out the electrode bits, JB in some tubing). That said, that kit is a nice start for a tool collection if you plan to do much more 2-cycle engine work.
When I was first getting into diagnostics and repair, I got by with pieces of inner tube for blocking carb and exhaust ports and a modified spark plug (bust out the electrode bits, JB in some tubing). That said, that kit is a nice start for a tool collection if you plan to do much more 2-cycle engine work.
Use some weak muriatic acid on the cylinder wall it will dissolve the aluminum but leave the steel or chrome liner.
Wash out well with baking soda water mix to neutralize then rerinse with soap and water. May have to lightly rehone but thats it.
Wash out well with baking soda water mix to neutralize then rerinse with soap and water. May have to lightly rehone but thats it.
A piece of inner tube works to block intake/exhaust. Leave the spark plug in and connect vac/pres tester to nipple for impulse line.
IMHO best pres/vac tester is the mityvac 8500
Other tools you will need are Vernier calipers, small flat head screwdriver, long pick set, long hemostats--strait and bent tip versions, socket sets for bearing and seal drivers, brass hammer, razor blades, diesel, parts washer brush and a oil catch pan to use as a wash station, compressed air for cleaning parts (not the carb), spark tester, compression tester, feeler gauges to set coil/plug gap, tiny paint brushes to apply oil to parts during assembly, a dremel with carbide bits to clean up casting imperfections, extra long torx bits.
steveotm357
ArboristSite Lurker
got it today and it worked...but the phone died and will post a pic in the am but everything looks great...seal doesnt look like it was leaking...
steveotm357
ArboristSite Lurker
Remember clutch is left hand threads.
Failing seals often "look" like they are sound. Pressure/vacuum tests are the gold standard, so to speak. Does pressure make soapy water bubble on the seal? Does vacuum suck light grease or oil into the crankcase?
There are those of us who get as much satisfaction from discovering and fixing problems as we get from the working saw that results from our efforts.
