That's why I just set up 180 to the lean(so it will overcome any side lean), pull until I see the canopy move, then let off a bit, just to hold it in place so the hinge/bypass wood doesn't break, then use the step cut, then just give the rope/cable a pull and down she goes. As long as someone is at the controls and knows that if I say to go they need to go, even if the bypass wood broke my hinge is already set so all they need to do is add a bit more pull.That 5:1 actually has significant pulling power, but it's way easier than equipment to feel how much tension you have. I basically just had him maintain tension while I chased the back cut with wedges. Once the tree was all cut up, I had him "give it hell," and it went over without too much fanfare.
No issues with chairing or side lean, just as long as you have enough power to overcome the back lean and break the bypass/holding wood.
I don't have a fiddle block setup, but I've seen them in use, and you sure can get s lot of power out of them, and with a rope up high I can see how easy it would be to overcome a slight lean. Our trees are much shorter and heavier so it takes a good bit of power, but a fiddle block can still be a useful tool. Much like anything, it's all about knowing when to utilize a tool and which tool to use. I take the every tree is a log approach and use the skidding winch on many I fall

Guess I never hit "post reply" earlier.
Nice job getting that one on the ground.