A bit of smoke smell on startup at times, some questions

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PA. Woodsman

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I just want to run this by you guys for your thoughts, here goes:

My wood stove is a 1993 Dovre Aurora, the door is a bit wonky and most likely warped somewhat, I put a new gasket on a few years ago, it was the correct size for the stove but I had trouble closing the door which never happened before that so I assume the door warped over time, and it never was overfired so I guess that as a local stove dealer told me was "inherent with their stoves", but I improvised and just pushed with a gloved hand on the door when closing it to close tighter and it works, this season I hardly have to push it at all as the gasket is compressing but still in very good shape so that's not the problem.

Inside the house is about 7.5' of a thick single wall black pipe, outside about 9' of double wall stainless steel pipe. This was installed in 1989, I had a guy come out last year to look at it and he said it was still in fine shape, said "I could replace the inside pipe if you want but I see no reason to do so", pressed on it, said it wasn't "oil canning", so I let it go. I used to have a chimney sweep clean it in the early years, but he said since I burn dry wood and burn hot it doesn't need to be swept every single season, I learned how to do it myself and have been doing it every couple of years, there is about a softball sized amount of fluffly soot that comes out, no tarry resin, and it's been like this for many years, so I doubt that is the problem.

When I start the stove I use the top down method, put two quarter splits on the bottom, kindling sticks above them, some twigs, non colored newspaper, light it, close the door but leave it open about an inch or so until it heats the pipe up and draws good, if I just shut it down sometimes it will go out, it depends on the weather outside, but I will keep the door open just a bit until it is going good then close it down, I make sure no smoke "licks" back into the house as that of course smells. If need be I'll crack a window or hold the door open for more air, and of course when we just had that brutal cold weather a few weeks ago here in PA. the fire and draft were great, other times like today when it is around 33 degrees and damp and rainy the draft is poor, but once the pipe thermometer gets past 200 degrees it burns fine.

I will let the kindling and quarter splits burn down, then the issue comes into play, so here is the "PUNCH LINE" lol; once I put a bigger piece of wood on, it of course wants to smoke more until it gets going and the stack temp is up towards 300 degrees. This morning, when the kindling was burning, the firebrick inside stayed white; when I put a bigger piece on I saw the firebrick start to turn black, and that is when I will notice a smoke smell. I have looked with a flashlight to see if I can see any smoke leaking out from the stove or the pipe and there is nothing. In the pieces of stovepipe where they join I have rope gasket stuffed so there is no leak coming from there. Until this burns off and it gets "rolling" I detect a slight smoke smell. Can you smell smoke through the stove? Or through the stovepipe even though none is visible? Am I perhaps "rushing" it a bit by trying to put a bigger piece on right after the kindling? Maybe I should add a few more quarter splits and kindling splits and then add a regular sized split?

I have been burning it this way for all these years, and of course on the very cold days there is no issue, the fire starts easily, the bigger splits ignite and take off no problem. But on days that aren't as cold, I at times-not always-but at times, will have this issue. Once there are good coals then anything burns and I only at times get a "lick" of smoke come out when I am adding more wood, even though I open the door a bit, hold it open there for about 5 or 6 seconds, then open it all the way slowly, add the piece and close it up, but that's normal. But I usually end up opening a window or the door until it gets going and the smell clears out, except on very cold days when the draft is stronger.

Does this sound like a draft problem? Maybe I will try adding some more quarter splits and kindling to build more of a coal base before I put a regular sized split on, so if that helps heat the pipe more and help the draft. I wouldn't think you could smell it through the stove or the pipe without seeing any smoke or am I wrong?

My wife says "we've always smelled some smoke, it's a wood stove, you will smell some initial smoke, this is nothing new, why is it bothering you so much now?" and I guess I just want to eliminate it the best that I can. Like I said the stove and pipe are old, but still work okay, and during those very cold days I smelled nothing at all in the house, the draft was strong so maybe it is a draft issue and adding more smaller sized wood until the pipe temp is higher might do it. Or maybe I'll have to keep the stove door open an inch or so when I add the first bigger piece of wood like I do when first starting the kindling, until the pipe temp is over 200 degrees?

Thanks if you got through this long story, and for any advice. Like the wife said it's not really new and real bad, but it bothers me now. But In a 10 month span I lost my dad in July and 3 other family deaths, so my mindset isn't the greatest, things tend to bother me more now than before, not just this smoke issue, but that's normal I am told.

Thank you
 
I can't really find fault with you're technique. Although I hate buying them because I am frugal, firelighters help get a fire hot without much smoke. Although its tempting to fill a stove full with big bits of wood, I do find stove burn better with more frequent filling of smaller bits and hotter. The manual on my small stove says to only add 2.5 lbs at a time.

Have you changed anything that could affect the draft - new airtight window, dryer or extractor?

16.5" feels quite high but there are other considerations. Is it higher than the roof ridge. Are there other buildings, trees or hills nearby? You could always try extending the pipe.
 
I can't really find fault with you're technique. Although I hate buying them because I am frugal, firelighters help get a fire hot without much smoke. Although its tempting to fill a stove full with big bits of wood, I do find stove burn better with more frequent filling of smaller bits and hotter. The manual on my small stove says to only add 2.5 lbs at a time.

Have you changed anything that could affect the draft - new airtight window, dryer or extractor?

16.5" feels quite high but there are other considerations. Is it higher than the roof ridge. Are there other buildings, trees or hills nearby? You could always try extending the pipe.
Thanks for the reply. No nothing in the house has changed. It's a Cape Cod house so the main roof is higher than the top of the chimney, and there are some big Pine trees nearby, but it's been that way for 36 years.

Tonight it started just fine, after the kindling and quarter splits burned down I added two more quarter splits, then put a full sized split in the back of the stove and it went very well. I guess it depends on the draft, and it will be more trial and error I guess.
 
I will let the kindling and quarter splits burn down, then the issue comes into play,
How far do you let them burn down?
If I let mine burn down too far before adding wood, I lose the strong draft too. And I think that adding a big piece will make it worse as that piece absorbs heat from the fire/firebox before it gets up to its ignition temperature.
 
How far do you let them burn down?
If I let mine burn down too far before adding wood, I lose the strong draft too. And I think that adding a big piece will make it worse as that piece absorbs heat from the fire/firebox before it gets up to its ignition temperature.
I think you are correct. Adding a big piece is tougher to ignite which then creates more smoke until it gets "over the hump". I now add another piece of kindling or quarter split in with the first big piece to keep things rolling along.

I usually wait until the kindling "teepee" I created crumbles then I'll start adding more pieces on top of that.

Thank you
 
Make sure your pipe is same diameter as collar on stove and check your "secondary combustion chamber" insulation ie brick/ glass blanket from interfering with flow [exhaust].
 
Make sure your pipe is same diameter as collar on stove and check your "secondary combustion chamber" insulation ie brick/ glass blanket from interfering with flow [exhaust].If your appliance [ie stove or insert] is drafting properly, dry wood should NOT SMOKE, no matter how large the SPLIT [angular] piece of wood is --IMHO. My pet peeve is burning 'over split' wood--ie small pieces. They burn too fast and too hot to where I have to open the front door of my cabin when I burn in my 1990's lopi INSERT. I mention 'angular' shaped wood because it has more surface area vs the typical round log.
 
I've been using a woodstove since 1978. I never let my stove get down to the point where my stove gets below 200 degrees. I never half fill it or put small amounts in it. The coals always get pulled to the front before loading. My stove gets filled to the max. On certain days there is the smell of smoke. When that happens I know it is a bad draft day and just crack open an outside door until my fire is blazing again. I too will leave the stove door open to get my fire up to a blaze more quickly. My stove runs at 500 - 600 degrees constantly. It is an Osburn 2200 insert that has a gas reburn feature that burns up any gases coming out of the wood. Just keep your fire running hot and that smoke problem won't be as bad. My chimney is two stories tall.
 
Seem to have gotten a handle on this since I posted this, just keep the door open a crack on the stove until the kindling and quarter splits get rolling, then when adding bigger pieces I'll open a window or door if needed, some days it's not needed while others it is and I attribute it to poor draft as JimR said, but it works fine after that. The wife keeps insisting that this is how it's been all these years, and she's probably right, I guess for some reason it just bothered me more now so I set out to see if I can do it any better. Guess I'm starting to see the metal decline at 64 now?!

Thanks for the replies!
 
Make sure your pipe is same diameter as collar on stove and check your "secondary combustion chamber" insulation ie brick/ glass blanket from interfering with flow [exhaust].
My woodstove chimney is not as high as I would like it to be, as it exits the house from a lower roof at the rear. The higher half of the house is to the south of the chimney, Thus, when the wind blows from the north, I have an initial downdraft problem when lighting up in the morning. It sounds all the world like your problem, however small, is a draft problem. Ideally, your chimney should be above the highest part of your house, if even by a couple of feet. There are other factors which can cause a lazy updraft, which is what your problem seems to be. As with my handicap, once the fire takes off, all is well, as the growing heat of the new fire overcomes the stagnant updraft. It just needs a jumpstart. My method of laying in my fire from a cold start is: First two small dia. logs about 3 inches apart front to back, then I lay half (top or bottom) of a cardboard egg carton on top of those, same front to back. On the cardboard, I lay a fair little pile of tinder scraps. Then on that, some small kindling sticks. Lastly, on top of that, a few 1 to 2 inch dia. pieces. I light the cardboard and shut the door with vent open all the way. By this method, the fire grows rather rapidly due to the upward flow of combustibility. Within a couple of minutes, the fire is ready for larger wood. Low barometric pressure is also a factor that can cause weak updraft. And there are mornings when opening a window or door a bit on the opposite end of the house will work quite well to gain updraft until the fire is underway. Lastly, many a woodstove or fireplace were installed in many a house as an afterthought. Houses built in the early days were done so with the all important chimney being a major consideration.
 
My woodstove chimney is not as high as I would like it to be, as it exits the house from a lower roof at the rear. The higher half of the house is to the south of the chimney, Thus, when the wind blows from the north, I have an initial downdraft problem when lighting up in the morning. It sounds all the world like your problem, however small, is a draft problem. Ideally, your chimney should be above the highest part of your house, if even by a couple of feet. There are other factors which can cause a lazy updraft, which is what your problem seems to be. As with my handicap, once the fire takes off, all is well, as the growing heat of the new fire overcomes the stagnant updraft. It just needs a jumpstart. My method of laying in my fire from a cold start is: First two small dia. logs about 3 inches apart front to back, then I lay half (top or bottom) of a cardboard egg carton on top of those, same front to back. On the cardboard, I lay a fair little pile of tinder scraps. Then on that, some small kindling sticks. Lastly, on top of that, a few 1 to 2 inch dia. pieces. I light the cardboard and shut the door with vent open all the way. By this method, the fire grows rather rapidly due to the upward flow of combustibility. Within a couple of minutes, the fire is ready for larger wood. Low barometric pressure is also a factor that can cause weak updraft. And there are mornings when opening a window or door a bit on the opposite end of the house will work quite well to gain updraft until the fire is underway. Lastly, many a woodstove or fireplace were installed in many a house as an afterthought. Houses built in the early days were done so with the all important chimney being a major consideration.
It sounds very much like my situation you are right! But I have an update...

I called a local chimney/stove guy, we used him a few years ago to put a new liner in our oil burner chimney and he also put a bird/bat proof cap on our wood stove pipe. I told him my situation, that I wanted to get an opinion on the condition of the stove and pipe, he listened to what I had to say and my concerns, checked the stove and said it still was okay, the left side of the door has never sealed as well as the middle and right side but it was like that from the factory in 1993 and I can work around that. He said he sees that but said it was okay and I could tighten it down a bit (it is adjustable) if I wanted to but said he would let it go but said the stove is still okay and said "you're good to your stove", meaning I take care with it, don't overfire or slam the wood in there, the firebrick has never been replaced because it doesn't need to be so that is good. He then popped the pipe elbow out of the stove, cleaned it from inside using a drill and rods, put his shop vac right in there to suck up the soot, checked it out and said despite it being 35.5 years old it is STILL good which amazes me, but he said it is good and said "if you have a smoke issue now it isn't the pipe".

We also went outside and he looked up and said yes the pipe could be a bit taller, said you measure 10 feet from the tallest part of the house and go straight across and the pipe should be 2-3' taller and ours isn't, but he said since there are trees and other things nearby that is why the draft is sometimes good sometimes not so good, and he really didn't think extending it would be a huge help so I will let it go.

After he left I started a fire, and despite it being very windy and not terribly cold the draft was much improved and it burned nicely. I DID still smell a bit of a smoky smell after I put the first bigger piece on, not horrible, not as bad as before, but I was very determined to figure out where this was coming from, so with the stove going and getting hotter I leaned in and kept "sniffing" like a dog lol! I could tell that the smell was coming from the middle to right side of the front; at first I thought maybe from the door gasket but in those areas the gasket is super tight, so I ruled that out. He did tell me that sometimes dust will get on and in areas and smell when burned, so I took a tissue and wiped down under the "lid" in that area and of course some of the tissue was sticking to the metal, so I got the flashlight, laid on my side while trying not to do a face plant into the glass that was rapidly getting hotter, and it took a few looks but I saw what appeared to be thin white gasket; I was wondering if maybe some stove cement had become brittle and disintegrated over the years, but I called a stove shop and talked to this guy about it and he said they either used stove cement or thin rope gasket to seal the front and the top, and after 32 years it most likely did get bad so that makes sense. Well, I called the sweep and we talked about it, and since neither one of us thinks trying to crack open 32 year old bolts is a good idea I said what I'll do when the stove is cold is just measure the width of the stove, buy a little extra length of thin gasket and start on one side and push it in and just cover that up and seal it from the outside, it couldn't hurt and most likely will help if that is the issue, and it's not as risky as trying to pop open these very old bolts and now have a HUGE problem, so that's what I'll do!

I looked around in anticipation if he told me the stove was shot, and I noticed since the EPA got involved years ago while there are many stoves my choices are limited since I want rear vent, non catalytic and it has to take 18" logs. I have a thread on here asking if anyone knows anything about Sierra Flame W76 woodstove and I only got 1 reply. I called the dealers closest to me listed on their website so I could go take a look at it but none of them WERE Sierra Flame dealers which was very strange, so it looks like me and old Dovre Aurora will be best buddies at least for a little while yet.

But that is how this progressed. He said I did everything right, and was correct in only cleaning the pipe every 2-3 years, based on what he got out of it so that was nice to know. I'll seal this up with gasket but they want unusually warm weather this week, but I'm sure I'll have several chances to crank it up before it gets warm for good, I'm sure we'll still get some cold weather before it stays warm for good so I'll be able to test my theory out.

THANKS ALL FOR THE REPLIES!!
 
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